Have anyone install Aeromotive 11141 340 lph Fuel Pump in their cars?
 

Well, while Chris was doing street tuning on my car at 12 psi on the new precision 6265 turbo he noticed that there were times that the AFR was pretty lean even after he added fuel to the map. I also notice this from time to time while I was driving the car prior to tuning. The car would run pretty strong on the first few days of street tuning but on the last 2 days it started to consistently show lean AFR values. The fuel pump I have on the car for the last 3 years is Walbro 255 lph pump. We will focus on the fuel pump as the source of the problem for now.

Have anyone of you try Aeromotive 340 lph fuel pump? I read reviews on it and it put out more fuel at same base pressure than the Walbro. For installation I notice that the AM Fuel pump has reverse polarities compare to the Walbro so there is a pigtail wire that come with it for this purpose. It has been a while since last time I replaced the fuel pump. Does anyone has the photo or can describe to me where this pigtail wires connected to the stock wiring? Does the stock fuel sock fit on this AM pump as well?

Thanks much.

nice find and should be more reliable than a walbro.

I have one on my car... speed one did the install.

Contact them, Im sure they can help you out.

I just concern with the installation of that pig tail wire. Anyone has the photo? Is that the wire that goes from top of the fuel pump to the connector inside the housing? It has been a while since last time I had the fuel pump out.

Does anyone ever use the f'ing search engine anymore?

dont know I will use search and try to find out

Guys, I did the search already otherwise I would not be creating this post. There are several talking about aeromotive pump but there aren't any info that I am looking for. I want to know how to hook up that pigtail wire that come with the pump to the stock wirings. I want to know how to do it before I take things apart if possible.

just giving you a hard ole buddy--np--i am interested myself.

I want one.. Someone should DIY it so i dont have to ;)

Well. I got my aeromotive pump. Look like Aeromotive fixed the polarity of the pump. Mine is exactly the same as the walbro so no need to use the pigtail wire. The eariler version when it first came out has the polarity opposite to that of the walbro so you need to rewire using the pigtail. Now everything should be straight forward.
As for what I expect from this fuel pump....my car probably going to be running very rich since this pump put out higher flow at the same psi compare to the walbro. Hopefully that it won't be so bad that I can't drive it.

Does the mixture in the rotor depend on the fuel pump or is it purely a function of the injectors?

In other words I am wondering about whether I should replace my fuel pump with anything other than stock ... If the mixture is not affected I'll go with whatever is more reliable / heavy duty.

thx in advance

Did you ever get an answer? I'd also like to know.

try Post #5

Sorry, man. It won't happen again.

Respectfully,
Drifta

What model of Aeromotive did u use?
 

Hi! i'm looking for a change my fuel pump. The aeromotive has 3 differents model ... what model fits perfect in a S2 Apump assembly?
My mazda is 2010 GT.

Please your help! :)

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f56554fa20.jpgDifferent sizes on top and all good aftermarket FP's are shaped like the S1's
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b53d874e5c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9380eab942.jpgI might try to melt the inner ridge to fit a better pump but it seems much harder to do than an S1 assembly is modded for a Walbro 450
Anyone successfully fit'd a stealth or any other worthy aftermarket fuel pump in an S2 assembly yet ?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1c396644a9.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f21da348d2.jpg
Also the aftermarket sock filter has to turn face the other way so that it lays flat on the bottom or it will fold up, it means not aligning the little filter hole with the fuel pump stud tingie but it seems snugg enough in there..https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...932c789820.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c00add6b68.jpgThe only thing that needs a little modding is the retaining clip under the fuel pump, to be able to fit the common shaped aftermarket fuel pump sock filters..
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...308447b742.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f991481188.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...73d526058c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ed60400993.jpg
Well the AEM 50-1220 340 fuel pump is the same size as the S2 pumps and fits perfectly in case anyone cares.. Also the Aeromotive Stealth 325 seems to be the same smaller S2 size but I canna confirm.

Anybody ever confirm the Stealth 325 size?

I changed to series 2 pump as the Aeromotive pump was pumping too much fuel and heating up the fuel and causing the fuel to boil. It only happens on long drives
.

Essex rotary confirms on their shop that The Aeromotive 325 fits R3

yes, it appears to be the 65c pump equivalent configuration that was used in the S2 pump module. All those newer model Mazda models listed there have the Denso 65c pump as does the S2 RX8.

You may want to review this information

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-af...thread-261755/

as SKC mentioned above, it will be bypassing heavily in low flow situations. I still say a lower flow pump (255lph) with an electronic pump speed controller is the way to go to get the higher flow when needed, but am not aware of anyone ever doing it here yet. Granted it has a cost factor, but it will help to avoid continuous high bypass/recycle flow that transfers excess pump energy into fuel heat up.
.

Agreed, as long as pump is running, energy has to go somewhere. Speed controller would need some inputs to estimate consumption, maybe RPM and throttle position would do.

A solution that might be good enough, and is easier(depending on how you see it), is adding a couple of resistors to the already existing used during idle, then use the intake valve signals to select them and thereby different serial resistance. Just an idea for anyone keen on digging into a solution, I'm not planning on going down this route.

they typically rely on a signal from boost, rpm, map sensor, etc.

it’s not complicated and it adds cost, but doing it right usually does.

of course the new brushless pumps with PWM controller are the current rage, but those are still very expensive and generally reserved for really big power/flow requirements

.