slash128

Thanks for posting Part 2! I like that you are having fun with this... Some people just don't get that some of us really enjoy tinkering and learning hands-on. Keep it up man!!!

JDriftM

Harlan, I can't say that I've ever posted, but you, slash, and brettus have helped keep me coming back to this forum.

Spot on stuff.

-Tim

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Tim!

I just finished making a chemical based hydrogen generator, and filling hydrogen balloons. I still have eyebrows, so that's a plus.

Tomorrow I'll be road testing lean burn with a buddy of mine. Hopefully we will get some good data!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I see great potential here for your next video ...lol

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Broke the car today... It would not behave for the lean burn test. I think the tune was too lean and the transitions were too rough. But that didn't break it, just no useable data.

So I reflashed a safe tune and took it to 6psi. Everything was strong. No detonation while under boost, but indications of det at partial throttle after boost. Not a concern.

Then I took it up to 8psi and BANG. The wastegate gasket blew again. I think I need to have it reworked with V-bands instead of flanges.

Oh and the video on abnormal combustion is up, tell me what you think!


A video on the events of today will be up in a few weeks, got a bit of a backlog (intentional) and I don't want to do too many things out of sequence.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Interesting stuff in the vid. Actually............... think it may explain an issue i've been trying to figure out .
At high boost at high rpm , I've seen detonation occur with high octane fuel and lots of it .
It could be that the exhaust ports are overwhelmed and pressures are too high as the rotor passes the leading plug hole . Gas bypassing into next chamber and ..............BANG !

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Oh and the important parts. 6Psi is pretty damn awesome with no detonation. And peak IAT hit 107F under boost. Water injection only still working like a champ.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

I'm trying to figure out a disturbing problem. That started and progressively got worse after I changed turbos.

It's taking me almost 5 seconds to develop oil pressure when cold. It's enough to make you hold your breath and pray for oil pressure and it's keeping me from driving the car much at all. At first I thought it was the oil cooler lines draining back to the pan because of where the turbo is tapped off of so I added a check valve. Didn't fix it. Now I'm getting ready to change oil/filters and check for bearing damage. It might be the full flow dual filters are clogging because I've been running them for 10k miles, but they are big honkin Ford filters so that seems unlikely.

My biggest hope is that it's just an indication issue and replacing the pressure sender fixes all.

<sigh> This darn car.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Changed oil and all filters same issue, but this time I removed the turbo oil line while cranking. Turbo gets oil pressure relatively quickly, so I believe it's just a sensor issue. Will confirm when I replace the sensor.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Could not reach the sensor, but I did clean the connector and now it reads correctly. Adding a OBD2 oil pressure and temperature now, they were on my to do list, but never got to them.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

so .............all good now or ?

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

All good, looks like it was just an indication issue.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

First part of my attempt at Lean burn live tuning, and running around at 6PSI. Part one has me driving around lost and failing at lean burn. You'll have to wait for part 2 for 6psi (and breaking the car at 8psi!)

Oh, and the exhaust leak is getting loud. It's getting so sever it is effecting spool. May need to see about fixing it.

slash128

LOL you're a riot Harlan!

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Just got under the car and it's not a wastegate bolt or gasket. The darn Marmon flange is leaking at the turbo. So no lost spool, but I couldn't tell that over the carbon monoxide.

Dunno if I need a new flange or new clamp. Waiting to put the locking fasteners on the WG until I have to pull it for some other reason.

And I found annother problem. Evidently putting the head ground for your ignition coil on a single sketchy bolt on you old sketchy ignition coil mount is a bad idea for reliability. Who knew?

slash128

Bummer about the flange Hipefully your downpipe is easier to get out than mine.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

And... a major electrical fault caused the engine to die and not restart while driving home from dropping off the kids at school. My beautiful and patient wife towed me home. Back to the drawing board.
Edit: It's blowing ignition coil fuses and I don't know why. When it does run it runs badly. I think part of my ignition coil driver box failed and is now a dead short. Good news is it wasn't something I built. Bad news is it isn't something I can fix. Hope I'm wrong and it's fixable.

Edit #2: Confirmed ignition coil driver box has one dead driver which is shorting the ignition coil to ground. Got a new one ordered. Hopefully with better wiring the second one wont fail.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Waiting for another quad spark from diy auto tune. May be a few days. Until then, here is part two of my Live tune experience. We ran around at 6Psi, got bored tried for 8 and blew the welds on the manifold. Ok we started leaking out a flange.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqllVSDiBZg

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Shhhhhhhhh now quietly look over there ...
You can see the shade tree mechanic in his natural environment.
The look of F.U.D. is too trap unsuspecting newbs as they troll by

JimmyBlack

Also doubles as the Fear of God look the wife gets when she has to hold the tools on the side of the highway...again. Keep it up Harlan, you know she digs the "eau de garage" aroma of engine oil after a long night in the garage.

FazdaRX_8

iTrader: (1)

subscribing

wcs

iTrader: (2)

hey! Hi

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

My water control/boost control brain got rained on, and then left while I was troubleshooting, so I had to clean it with isoprophyl and hope for the best. It seems to be working. Need to print a permanent pcb still.

Replaced the ignition coil driver, still have ignition problems.

I think one of these IGN-1 Coils is shorted to ground. But can't find the fault with my multi-meter. Only symptom is no spark and ignition driver is getting way too hot.

And the exhaust leak is still there.

If you see my car filled with cement and sinking into the Gulf of Mexico don't call me.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Looks like dead ignition coils. This is unacceptable. Still troubleshooting but if three of the IGN-1 ignition coils died this quickly and this early in life I'll have to find other options for coils. Especially since they took out their ignition driver.
Edit: Working on a plan to go back to IGN-1A Coils. More details when available.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Figured out a solution. I'll be using Isuzu rodeo coils and because the dwell time is 1/10 that of normal coils (I think they are designed as CDI) I am going to use multi-spark. Now here's hoping they will ignite fuel!

Edit: Also looking at the Isuzu knock module to see if it can provide me a use-able output. One step closer to my Isuzu v6 conversion... Well not really but hey it would probably be cheaper at this point.