Greddy TURBO problems CEL?
 

Got the greddy turbo install today... The power is superb!!
Anyways, i was looking for help in this case.

At WOT when the turbo was fully spooled, and i ran the car hard, sometimes, the CEL blinked... Then when i eased off of the gas, it went away.

Then, i parked the car, and when i turned the car on again, the CEL is now on steady. I dont' knwo what it is. I think the car stutters a little bit too...

What can the problem be?
Anyone else encounter the problem?

I dont' want to just disconnect the battery to reset the ECU as if there is an actual problem, it'll just let the computer forget and re-submit the problem. I feel as if there is actually something wrong, since i do have something foreign (greddy turbo) in my car now, i don't want the ECU to forget about the "problem" and just get another CEL when it detects again...

I do get occassional stalls (7 today) and most of them was from when i pushed the car, and put it in neutral even when the car was still cruising...

Please help...

Flashing cel can mean detonation or a misfire, hook an odbII to it to see what number cel it is. Stalls, first thing I did was modify the air intake to take the screens from the stock airbox like philodox did, that help the most. Do you have a BOV on it yet? what is your a/f ratio under boost?

If you don't have a scanner take it to Mazda, or Auto Zone or Checkers for a free diagnosis. It will tell you what the code is with the option to clear it, also if you noticed this CEL under WOT just keep it out of boost until you determine what exactly is wrong.

But from what you're describing it sounds like you have an open atmosphere blow off valve causing you to stall, which would throw a MAF code.

i have the Gredddy Type S BOV. It seems that when it's not fully boosted, the BOV stutters the psssssss... As for the CEL, i reset the ECU and it hasn't been on since... i drove it for 200mi so far after the CEL was gone.

Who did your install?

Blinking CEL does not mean detonation nor misfire well it could but it also could be numorse things ..... i ahve had a CEL ever since i had my turbo and it blinks every now and then and no problems ..... knock on wood
Shane

reset the ECU... actually did it.

It seems to be OK. Tri State Autosports did my install... they are very reputable esp when it comes to rotaries...

However, My BOV stutters a little bit... any ideas?

it could be that ur BOV is tightened too hard.

you don't want to vent to atmosphere with this turbo
you'll run rich and stallllll

Loosen up that BOV! I think it's too tight, it's definitely doing the pssst sound most people like but in reality it's is what hurts the compressor.

It's like there is air that needs to be vented... teh BOV is tight... returns to the compressor and stalls your engine! Bingo!

Also you need to recirculate this BOV especially since you are using the MAF sensor otherwise you could potentially stall the car at idle!!! Bingo!

This is what I had in my turbo Miata... I loosen up the Type-S BOV just enough to get some surge when at WOT and recirculated for better idle control... Granted I was using MAP and not MAF...

Hope this helps...
Carlos

Running type s bov on mine, venting to the atmosphere, no problems with stalling, maps have an anti-stall built in, take a look at the 05_05 map, mazdamaniac did.

i'll try that... thanks.

Stalling when going to Idle from a high RPM is normal.....
but you should really be downshifting.
Downshifting solves that problem. Never go to neutral from anywhere higher than .......... what, 3k RPM or so.

I also get the blinking light, but mostly only when Im drifting and reaching redline for more than 1 second, haha. Just your car telling you not to hold redline for so long. and my engine light is on right now too, and its for 1 reason... the blow off.

a lot of people have problems with the blow off if it isnt recirculating. Mine isnt, and my car is running fine (The Greddy BOVs suck with the Greddy Turbo.... humm, i wonder why they didnt come with the kit) Im running the HKS SSQV and its running perfect. no more idle problems or anything.

Overall, you need a proper tune. or a tune in general if you havent done so.

hope that helps

holy back from the dead batman....


beers :beer:

OMG. There is soooo much bad information in this thread its making me want to puke. 5 of 7 posts in this thread that offer advice are full of crap...

LOL, I was thinking the same damn thing!

But seriously, it's better to stay silent and be thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. ;)

I like the down-shifting advice. I'll try that next time.
Oh yeah, I forgot. My car doesn't stall...

Honestly, I'm ready to give up on half of the numb-nuts on this board...

Haha. Yeah MM. I hear you. That's why I've stopped trying for the most part. I admire your perseverance, however futile it might be! :wallbash:

I was going to just ignore this, but since Ryan and Jeff have jumped in I now I feel like one of a pack of hyeenas culling the heard of the weak. So, in the spirit of natual selection, here we go:


Ummm... no. I've never, ever had a stalling problem, even when I was running the emanage blue. Stalling indicates a problem - not normal performance. Why would you settle for that?

I never downshift. I routinely run it to 9k and just mash the clutch after I've passed that pesky little STi.

Wrong again. Flashing CEL indicates one thing: Misfire. You're getting a misfire in the higher RPM. Could be plugs, or perhaps more likely, weak coils. But one thing it is not is a casual conversation between your car and you.

Trouble code: P002868 Faluty BOV. That's a new one. If I were you I'd pull that code. Its probably the 'too rich' code, or the one for repeated misfire.


Blood Spilled. Hyneeas feasting. The heard goes on, stronger without the burden of the weak.

I did have a problem with stalling at one point. It's caused by the shitty Greddy BOV. You can tighten it down some to improve it, but to completely eliminate it you need to either:

1. Get a better bov
2. Recirculate it
3. Switch to a MAP based system instead of MAF based.


Downshifting can actually have a bad side effect, besides extra wear and tear on your clutch. After a hard run letting the engine wind down under fuel cut pulls cold air in and over hot metal. If it were cold enough out, it could contribute to warping. Probably unlikely, but still why do it?

If you are running an e-manage, you can also use the anti-stall feature to mitigate stalling and backfires caused by an incorrectly sized or adjusted BOV.
It is tricky to get the numbers and the throttle position correct.

im now running the greddy turbo kit with the interceptor. and ever since i installed the turbo kit and the interceptor, the CEL stays on. I thought that is normal.
Correct me if im wrong!

It is typical. Not normal, just typical.

In the same boat
 

I am also having the same EXACT problems you are. I just had my GReddy kit installed, and have the GReddy BOV. I had to tighten the BOV down real tight to get it to act better. The BOV seems to oscillate instead of just opening and releasing the pressure. The car tries to stall all the time, but is a little better after tightening down the BOV. The car runs rich as hell at idle. It'll burn your eyeballs out...and that happens no matter how the BOV is adjusted. I also get stuttering and the the boost is not smooth, it bounces around like a rubber ball.

I started up a thread and got some advice that I am sure is good, but I will just have to implement the changes one at a time until I get it right. I have a 3" exhaust all the way out with no cat, and I suspect that could be part of my issue since the emanage blue was not tuned for this free flowing exhaust. Maybe someone can chime in on that idea. I plan to implement the changes in the definitive fixes....Jeff can tell you more about that.

Anyway, if I get anywhere, I'll definitely post the results. My car is at the shop getting the oil restrictor installed and the #2 fix done. I'm anxious to see how the car runs after that. I just found out through some research on the board that the factory coils are crap, so maybe replacing those will help. I just dunno right now. Good luck and let me know if you get it worked out and what you did to do it.
:banghead:

The tuning has no effect on idle.
If you have idle issues, you have a leak or an improper signal to or from a sensor.
Check how the pressure sensor for the e-manage is installed.
Also, check the MAF and get a scanner so that you can look at the output voltages from the MAF.
Make sure the throttle position is calibrated in the e-manage.

Question for Jeff
 

Jeff...I'll check this on my car to see if this is a problem for me. I have an OBDII scan tool.

Before I start messing with the emanage blue...I have an emanage ultimate, but I was prepared to sell it. I found a thread from you about getting the ultimate to work, and I also found the info about the plug n' play harness for sale as well. Should I install this, in your opinion? Do you have a good base map I can use? It sounds like it is not that difficult to do, and does a lot of self-learning. I also have the WB02 sensor harness and a WB02 sensor. I have the Innovate LC-1. It is not currently installed on my car.