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2. What additional items will you need? A Diverter Valve is recommended on a MAF setup like ours, and a recirculated blow off valve will do, but you will need to purchase the recirculation hose fitting separately in most cases, and the Greddy compressor inlet pipe will need to have a fitting welded to it to accommodate the recirculation hose. An Electronic Boost Controller, a proper cold air intake (see mine), Cobb Accessport and Access Tuner Race software, Adaptronic Select PNP ECU, or the Mazdaedit software and Tactrix 2.0 Flash tool. High temp silicone (with a thermal sleeve over it) turbo oil drain hose with a proper hose fitting and a proper male fitting welded to the stock oil pan. A quality aftermarket Wideband O2 solution, boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, quality heat shielding material for the passenger side firewall/trans tunnel opening, and all new quality fasteners for mounting the Turbo, compressor inlet/outlet pipes, the manifold, and the downpipe.
3. What additional items are nice to have? Additional gauges or means of viewing critical engine data live, a proper oil pressure regulator for the turbo oil feed, upgraded BHR ignition kit (or make your own if you dare), oil filter adapter plate with 1/8” NPT ports for gauge sending units and turbo oil supply, Racing Beat air pump block off plate (means deleting your air pump and likely not legal depending where you live), upgraded fuel pump/assembly, high quality silicone pipe couplers, quality T-bolt clamps, and quality vacuum hose (not just any silicone or rubber hose, vacuum hose)
5. What software and hardware do you need to use to load/tune maps? Cobb Accessport and Cobb Access Tuner Race software, Adaptronic Select PNP ECU with laptop, or Mazdaedit Software and Tactrix 2.0 flash tool.
6. What are the different maps available? What do they do and how were they changed from previous versions? You will need to learn how to tune and use the listed hardware and software or you will need to pay someone who is qualified to do it. My opinion is to not waste your time and pay someone to do it right the first time. There are no one size fits all maps.
7. What's a typical install time? Days, Typical install time is around 10-12 hours. It may be possible to do it faster or it may take longer, it all depends on your skill, and proper, prior, planning.
8. What are typical installation labor rates? Typically between $1000.00-$2,000.00. But that is just a wild guess and that price will vary greatly depending on where you are and how crazy you are going with your setup.
9. What else should I know about this kit or turbos in general? I recommend reading as many build threads and Greddy turbo related threads as you can. I also recommend you read this book.
10. What type of turbo does the kit use? An 18G Greddy T618Z GReddy
11. How much boost does it provide? On the waste gate, the standard unmodified Greddy kit boost level is typically between 5-6psi. With an electronic boost controller and a proper tune, 8PSI-10PSI has been done but only up to about 6000RPM (Brettus Edit). With an upgraded turbo, bigger injectors, etc. more boost can be ran and more power made but it depends on the quality of the build and the quality of the tune.
12. Will my gas mileage be effected by the turbo? Yes. Typically since a turbo is a restriction in the exhaust, you will lose a little efficiency. And boost is addicting, mileage will suck.
13. How much HP can be made with the Greddy turbo kit? With a solid engine running properly, on the standard kit with a solid tune, about 250-260WHP (Brettus edit). With an upgraded turbo and other upgrades it will vary depending on many things, but about 300WHP can be expected. Above that has been done but is still uncharted territory with any expectation of even decent reliability.
14. Will adding a turbo affect the long term reliability of the car? Yes it will. If you plan on turbocharging your RX-8 for any extended period of time, then you should plan on paying for an engine rebuild at some point.
15. Do I need to build up the internals of the engine to handle the boost? It is not necessarily needed on a standard Greddy kit. With an upgraded turbo I would say it is recommended if you want some reliability. There are many opinions about engine building and if you ask five different engine builders you will likely get five very different opinions. So if you are looking for an engine to be rebuilt then I suggest educating yourself first and then talk to as many builders as you can before picking one.
16. What octane fuel is recommended with forced induction? The highest available to you at the pump.
17. Can I use a high flow cat or straight pipe with forced induction? Yes you can. But if you choose to run a cat converter, spend the money the first time for a quality cat (HSJ, etc)
18. Will forced induction void my vehicle's factory warranty? YES
19. How fast can a Greddy RX-8 do a 1/4 mile?
It varies but mid to low 13's should be attainable if the car is setup right. This is a buddy who ran a 13.1 @107MPH with a BNR upgraded turbo at 10psi on drag radials but with a less than ideal tuning solution.
I found a Greddy Turbo kit online and I was wondering if this kit looks complete apart from some bolts and clamps maybe?
This is the ad:
Up for sale is a used Greddy turbo kit. Kit is 100% complete and ready for bolt on. Comes with turbo timer from Greddy as well as RS blow off valve. Kit was installed for 7k miles and removed for re-sell of stock car to the dealership.
Nothing was wrong with the kit when removed and pulled very strong. Turbo has no shaft play or leaks of any kind.
You should throw out that horrible blue emangle for starters .
Also get rid of the air nx setup and replace it with a modified aem intake or make your own from a treadstone maf tube .
If the couplers don't have at least 3 ply weave in them .. throw them out as well .
Otherwise a BNR upgrade of the compressor and turbine wheels is a good idea .
I would stick to the lower flowing wheel though knowing what I know now.
You should throw out that horrible blue emangle for starters .
Also get rid of the air nx setup and replace it with a modified aem intake or make your own from a treadstone maf tube .
If the couplers don't have at least 3 ply weave in them .. throw them out as well .
Otherwise a BNR upgrade of the compressor and turbine wheels is a good idea .
I would stick to the lower flowing wheel though knowing what I know now.
Thanks Brettus!
The BNR upgrade is one of the upgrades I would definitively do.
I have an Injen CAI. I guess that MAF tube would do, as long as I route the intake into the frontbumper (due to onder bonnet heat).
As for mapping, which route would you go? Cobb AccessPort, MazdaEdit or something like Adaptronic?
Is there something like a base map which can be uploaded as a starting point for tuning?
Perhaps I can use your map?(conservative tuned)
It's hard to come by good advise in The Netherlands. I've been asking around, but nobody has turbo'd an rx8 over here. There are tuners here though that have experience with fd3s.
Thanks again for everyone who takes an interest and will help!
Had MM tune on my car with Gredddy kit installed + oil pan gauges, and boost controller , ran it in SoCal for about 3-4 years this way and 2 years in Norcal this way with no issues. After hitting Columbus for a bit car was in shambles. Got a rebuild from some guy in Columbus ( didn't tune or ground the ecu properly) afterwards the ignition was fried. After coming back to SoCal recently, changing ignition , plus, they fried twice. So...Upgraded to adaptronic from Cobb and added BHR coils. I know this is an FAQ, so in those terms I was hoping the answers might make good additions...
1- Earlier in FAQ a Brettus edit mentioned 8-10 PSI up to 6000 rpm ( stock greddy t618 turbo) , is this a spring, exhaust other issue or it simply can't flow higher?
2- The shop I took it to tuned it to 10 psi, which past 7 psi it won't reach reliably, at 10 there is slowdown and occasionally a "pop" sound. They mentioned this is an exhaust restriction issue - can someone confirm at what psi, or perhaps hp/tq numbers the exhaust truly is restrictive and what the symptoms might be?
3- Does BNR still do the upgraded greddy turbo, if not what alternatives exist to boost to 9-10 psi reliably? Preferably with minimal work to the greddy kit but interested also in other solutions that require minor changes ( as in no new manifold required).
4- Columbus mechanic blocked off 2 ports on my engine with plexiglass and didn't remove them after rebuild, is this a common thing to do for Cobb tuned Greddy kits? I wasn't even aware he did this, though I did notice a drag at ~7000 rpm which at that point I has a CEL 661 code, so I assumed it was O2 sensors.
Mods: Feel free to move this if it's in an appropriate spot, though I was wondering if anyone had these issues, perhaps some answers might be applicable to someone.
1- Earlier in FAQ a Brettus edit mentioned 8-10 PSI up to 6000 rpm ( stock greddy t618 turbo) , is this a spring, exhaust other issue or it simply can't flow higher?
2- The shop I took it to tuned it to 10 psi, which past 7 psi it won't reach reliably, at 10 there is slowdown and occasionally a "pop" sound. They mentioned this is an exhaust restriction issue - can someone confirm at what psi, or perhaps hp/tq numbers the exhaust truly is restrictive and what the symptoms might be?
3- Does BNR still do the upgraded greddy turbo, if not what alternatives exist to boost to 9-10 psi reliably? Preferably with minimal work to the greddy kit but interested also in other solutions that require minor changes ( as in no new manifold required).
4- Columbus mechanic blocked off 2 ports on my engine with plexiglass and didn't remove them after rebuild, is this a common thing to do for Cobb tuned Greddy kits? I wasn't even aware he did this, though I did notice a drag at ~7000 rpm which at that point I has a CEL 661 code, so I assumed it was O2 sensors.
Mods: Feel free to move this if it's in an appropriate spot, though I was wondering if anyone had these issues, perhaps some answers might be applicable to someone.
Thanks.
-J
1/The stock Greddy can't flow enough to do any better than that .
2/Likely the tune or Coils ....... that coil kit often has a few duds that aren't up to it once run past 7-8psi. Get yourself a cheap coil tester and test them.
3/BNR upgrade is worthwhile (make sure you get the 11 blade turbine) plus there are other upgrades necessary to get the benefits from a larger turbo.
4/Blocking off the APV ports is a good idea when running the stock Greddy turbo but can be removed once you upgrade the turbo.
Stock internals are fine for a standard Greddy, though you'll probably want to do a number of other upgrades to help prevent engine failure. The tune is most important, but read a bunch of our build threads to get an idea of what's required. I posted a diagram in my thread of how the Greddy (or any) turbo should be plumbed. I wish I'd had that diagram when I started, would have made my research a lot easier.
Only thing I can point out is there is debate as to where to plumb the EBC boost signal (pre or post TB) I know many people have had much success with both locations depending on your setup.
Agreed. While I didn't want to open that particular can of worms, best recommendation is to try your EBC in both pre-TB and post-TB locations and see which works best for you. I get absolutely no benefit from plumbing my GFB EBC pre-TB, but others with different EBCs have reported significant improvements in driveability.
I'm an rx8 owner for 4 years now..
I own a 2005 4 port auto.. I've done several mods to it.. Recently I've been thinking a lot about going FI but there are some questions that come into my mind when I think of spending the money.. Someone told me that my rx8 will only last 15k km after FI even if taken good care of.. Is this true? If yes.. Any solution for this? And when I go turbo.. What else will I need in my set up.. My plan was to pair a GReddy turbo with interceptor x
Since you also posted this question on my build thread, and PM'd it to me I'm feeling really loved up right now, so I'll put my hand up to answer.
I would ditch the auto and buy an rx8 with the 6 port engine (6 speed). While a reasonable amount of power has been made from 4port engines like your auto, a 6 port will make more if you do the same things to it. So with an auto you're giving yourself a handicap from the start, and why bother putting in so much time and money unless you can get some good results?
Anyway, I'd use MazdaEdit for tuning, though Adaptronics and Cobb are good alternatives. I haven't had much experience with Interceptor-X so can't comment, except to say if it hasn't been commonly used, it's probably not a good option. Stay away from piggyback ECUs. You will want AFR and boost gauges as a minimum. I can't think of any other supporting mods that you NEED, but I'd recommend everything I've done in my Greddy build thread if you want to minimize the risk of engine failure. I took the safe path with my build by buying new parts I thought may not go the distance, and a few extra gauges so I could see if things started getting out of hand before they caused damage. This was more expensive, but has paid off so far given that my motor has lasted 18 months as a daily driver at 10-13psi.
After driving a VW Golf GTI (Rabbit in the US?) and a Subaru WRX recently, I was surprised at how much more I enjoyed climbing back into my car. Its waaaay faster, better handling, less clunky, nicer interior, no lag. It just be mo better. Do it!
Last edited by JimmyBlack; 09-13-2016 at 03:10 AM.
What charge air tube (turbo compressor to intercooler & intercooler to throttle body) diameters are Greddy turbo kits using?
I've an unknown Greddy turbo kit fitted and I was surprised to see that the tubing from the compressor to the intercooler had a [aluminium] tube with a diameter of 61mm (2.4") as it came out of the turbo, narrowed down to 2 [aluminium] tubes of 51mm (2") then increased back to 61mm (2.4") at the intercooler inlet. The tube immediately after the intercooler was 61mm (2.4") in diameter.
02-17-2016, 11:28 AM
Typical install time is around 10-12 hours. It may be possible to do it faster or it may take longer, it all depends on your skill, and proper, prior, planning.
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