Sort of OT, but do you think this from Summit would work if the AEM screens are not readily available?
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...m-29060s_w.jpg |
If it fits over the outside of the tube, possibly.
It is hard to say what the gauge of that screen is. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 4079287)
Properly fitted screens made with the correct material will not collapse or be sucked through.
Just don't use OEM screens that have been bashed about while being the clumsy oafs we all are ...........................................correct ? |
I actually called AEM and they are sending me replacement screens for free :) Awesome service :)
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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4079346)
Agreed
Just don't use OEM screens that have been bashed about while being the clumsy oafs we all are ...........................................correct ? Plus, they are a bit to small to be sure they will stay aligned inside the edge of the coupled tubing. |
MM, What screens would you recommend, do you have a good source for something suitable?
I've been reading some info about the honeycomb MAF straighteners and they seem to be a good option. |
Originally Posted by kma5783
(Post 4079728)
MM, What screens would you recommend, do you have a good source for something suitable?
Just about any industrial metal supply will have that. Or, you can try TWP online. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 4079889)
I use stainless 16 ga with a .009" wire. If you are worried about it breaking, you can do the same gauge in .018" wire. That stuff is actually hard to bend (its not like window screen).
Just about any industrial metal supply will have that. Or, you can try TWP online. One more question when you install the screen do you cut it the same as the outer diameter and just place it between the two pipes or do you cut it larger and bend it over the outer diameter and use the coupler to hold it in place? I would assume the latter because I would think it may move out of place if it's just placed in between. |
Originally Posted by kma5783
(Post 4079954)
cut it larger and bend it over the outer diameter and use the coupler to hold it in place?
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 4079961)
^^ This
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5 Attachment(s)
Im in the process of having my kit tuned by Jeff with my COBB...It is possible, just takes time and long periods of waiting/ trial and error.
Attachment 238398 Attachment 238399 Attachment 238400 Attachment 238401 Attachment 238402 At my shop we used my AEM intake MAF tube instead of the one that came with the kit. We were able to reuse the screens as well. Just needed to buy a coupler that downsized at one end. |
so it was worth getting the AEM CAI ^ nice set up by the way, and gald you made it back home.
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does this kit retain the OMP?
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Originally Posted by mavictb
(Post 4141417)
does this kit retain the OMP?
Hey my first post and I'm looking at this kit. I see'd it here on there home page web sites Oil Metering Pumping Heat shielding included to preserve OEM components located in the vicinity of turbo components. (manifold/downpipe wrap not included) I'm going to guess that by this statement it musd mean you keep the OMP for oil metering. Seeing how you are new like me I will recommend you search a bit more as I was able to find there manufactures home page website using www.bing.com I typed emersil turbo and return this link http://www.esmerilracing.com/RX-8_Tu...-standard.html Sorry my english is nots so good and its because of my home scholing on the farm. |
I got trolloled... lol
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I'm still having issues with my tuning with Jeff. We found an issue with the fuel pump and I have since replaced it with a second 340lph unit.
The issue is with my maf now. I cannot rev the engine at idle or under load above 3k with the maf plugged in. With the wires disconnected it will rev freely through the rpm range but with a cel. We only did this as a test and did not drive the vehicle. Any advice??? |
Originally Posted by faith&firepower
(Post 4171292)
The issue is with my maf now. I cannot rev the engine at idle or under load above 3k with the maf plugged in. With the wires disconnected it will rev freely through the rpm range but with a cel.
You shouldn't be able to rev the engine with the MAF unplugged. It should immediately go into limp mode. Have you tried leaving the MAF connected and disconnecting the front WBO2S to see if it will rev freely when forced into open-loop? More importantly, have you tried mentioning this to me during the tuning sessions? |
it will rev fully with the MAF wiring dis-connected and it does not go into limp mode, just a CEL and it will breakup a lot at higher revs on my NA engine/tune, so I certainly wouldn't recommend doing so with a turbo setup :uhh:
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 4171313)
More importantly, have you tried mentioning this to me during the tuning sessions?
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In my case it just bounces from 2.5 to 4.5k rpms with the maf disconnected.. rofl.
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I forgot to hook mine up last weekend, gave me a bit of a scare when it started breaking up while free-reving it up (car was on jackstands) until I realized my mistake, but it does rev out :dunno:
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4171387)
it will rev fully with the MAF wiring dis-connected and it does not go into limp mode, just a CEL and it will breakup a lot at higher revs
On the 2 dozen or so cars that I have tried revving with the MAF disconnected, none would go past 4000k. Some wouldn't even go above idle. The factory stuff says it should immediately go into limp mode without the MAF. |
well I've had plenty of senior moments lately so maybe it's mixed up in my head about when I just revved it up some vs revving it out
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I just went outside and tried it on the two RX-8s that are here right now. Neither would go off-idle with the MAF unplugged.
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well it went off idle for sure, I have to go out there in a bit and will check my own
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Yes Jeff I've mentioned this issue. Now unplugging the maf just happened Friday. So that is new....
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