Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2792981)
An excruciating amount of time was spent (by me) "chasing the tail" of mis-adjusted injector scaling and MAF calibration. All about finding out where something is in reality relative to "zero." :) |
Yes - Finding "zero" is what this does.
I was always having to infer zero from the end results before, which is kind of like inferring the end of a book by the way the ink distorts the shape of the back cover. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2793342)
....which is kind of like inferring the end of a book by the way the ink distorts the shape of the back cover.
back OT: I've read bit and pieces of this thread and other dicussions about it dozens of times over the last couple of years. STILL the more i read, the more go in circles. In my mind i know i should be able to hop on a dyno, fully disable TCS/DSC and go at it. But at the same time i cant seem to accept it blindly like that. Maybe it's a lack of full understanding of what the PCM does in regards to torque sensors, traction, and wheel speed... is there a chance that anyone can really fully break it down? Any sections of any manuals that cover the flow/logic diagram or whatever the PCM uses? I have most of them afaik but i havent seen anything obviously related in my quick skimming... Jeff, sorry - i don't intend to be asking you to step up and educate, but honestly i dont know who might know the in's and out's of the way the damn thing works as well as you |
Originally Posted by paulmasoner
(Post 2793477)
wow, what an analogy. that explains a lot of the storyline with the AP tuning, which btw i'm glad you got things streamlined. see people, even MM learns as he goes sometimes. he isn't an evil artificial alien lifeform..... or is he:eyetwitch
back OT: I've read bit and pieces of this thread and other dicussions about it dozens of times over the last couple of years. STILL the more i read, the more go in circles. In my mind i know i should be able to hop on a dyno, fully disable TCS/DSC and go at it. But at the same time i cant seem to accept it blindly like that. Maybe it's a lack of full understanding of what the PCM does in regards to torque sensors, traction, and wheel speed... is there a chance that anyone can really fully break it down? Any sections of any manuals that cover the flow/logic diagram or whatever the PCM uses? I have most of them afaik but i havent seen anything obviously related in my quick skimming... Jeff, sorry - i don't intend to be asking you to step up and educate, but honestly i dont know who might know the in's and out's of the way the damn thing works as well as you No timing pulled and no weirdness from the PCM. Just do it.:lol2: Go ahead and dyno it. |
Dam I wish I found this thread before I dynoed my 8 lol back to the dyno
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Upon dynoing my car - we received consistent hp numbers of less than 1 hp difference and all we did was hold down d.s.c. for the few seconds
as a matter of fact i had mentioned this thread to my tuner and he was curious, as was i, to find out if it is true, we looked through the rx8 dealer manual and find no tie to the abs cutting engine power - and as previously stated, numbers were consistent and no 'power loss' was evident. _ my $.02 |
Street Driving with DSC/ABS fuse pulled = ?
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this thread is bogus and doesn't deserve sticky status, I never did anything special for dynoing my car
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/\ lol maybe not for your car but for mine it is. 164whp in all honesty sucks ass. Maybe my coils are finished...
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well I have an 04 RX8 and have no DSC button and when I dynoed my 8 it was pathetic and on top of it all it was at a honda shop. My fuel was WAY rich my numbers didnt break 135hp and every light imaginable light up my dashboard like a christmas tree then once I pulled it off the dyno and drove it those lights went off. Then proceded to race and beat a car that dynoed before I did that showed 173hp on the same dyno. And I didnt pull the fuse either. So I will go back to this same shop pull the fuse and see what I get.
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Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 2194653)
All of you, shut up !!!!!
Im gonna go dyno my car after this week, suppose to do it last week but shit ass Clutch Bracket broke in the *Right* time, took them 3 days to fix it, got my car back on friday, too late. and this coming week I have finals and shit work bugging me like crazy. Gonna do it the xmas week I guess. I will try the *DSC button* method first. 1 hour unlimited pulls for 120 bux (aye...), weather is gonna be cold. After that I will do another pull after the new year using the *Pull fuse* method. Alright ? |
bump for the most tarded thread on the forum, except for maybe the aggressive wheel thread ...
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Yeah, I can't believe we are still having this discussion.
If anyone doubts that there is NOTHING special needed to dyno the RX-8, watch the live video feed from the SoCal dyno day on the 27th and 28th of March. |
or just be there and watch it in person
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Originally Posted by laythor
(Post 3447810)
or just be there and watch it in person
Though, I suspect people will be sitting in your car watching "Blade Runner" or something.... |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 3447761)
Yeah, I can't believe we are still having this discussion.
. But he does have a point ,the thread should be de-stickyed (if that is a word) Something I have found with dynoing mine that might be useful : Be carefull that there is sufficient airflow to the radiator . The guy that does mine insists on directing the fan into the intercooler and i have seen engine temps go awhol as a result . |
That's because most dyno fans are woefully insufficient
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 3449114)
That's because most dyno fans are woefully insufficient
A lot of the dyno operators are moving up to two or three of those high-velocity carpet-drying turbines. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 3449298)
Were, anyway.
A lot of the dyno operators are moving up to two or three of those high-velocity carpet-drying turbines. |
for the 8 there should be one main fan directed at the radiator and perhaps 1-2 smaller ones at the oil coolers .
Next time i go for a big whp dyno I'll hire an extra fan to do the 2nd radiator |
I guess it depends on the fans.
The carpet fans (usually just two pointed in the "mouth" at the IC and rad) they use at UMS here in Tempe actually over-cool the car if I'm not careful. Its not unusual to see my coolant temps drop below the 175°F threshold between runs if I don't run them close enough together. Oil temps simply wont go over 185°F or so no matter what. |
"Oil temps simply wont go over 185°F or so no matter what. "
Good to know The other issue is that dyno operators don't realise how hot our engines get before the gauge moves . |
Yes I am going here, but no; I am not discussing "it".
Originally Posted by rotarygod
(Post 2169282)
I really want to see 2 different dyno sessions with each method now. I want to see one dynoed with the button pressed and held. Dyno 3 times back to back to back. Then go back in a week and repeat. Compare numbers. Do the same thing with the pull the fuse method. Use the same car. Compare results between both for consistency. The total power number isn't important. Consistency is. That's what I want to see. If one method consistently produces a higher power number on an n/a car it would actually be the more accurate one to use anyways.
Someone try this and post the results. Unless someone has actually done this (and pending $150 I can rationalize throwing away), I will step up to the task sometime this year. My car is -- with respect to the "major horsepower upgrades" section -- very much unmodified; so I hope this isn't a worthless gesture for the sake of those using aftermarket systems. I have a Hymee sCANalyzer; would any data logging be useful for such a comparative test, or would the dyno sheet prove to be the only interesting bits of data? |
So no absolute truth or difference in pressing the DSC button when dynoing... yes?
Un-sticky then.... |
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