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Let me know if you need it. I took it apart at 100k miles. Kinda shocking how small the exhaust port gets with carbon build up. Motor was not blown and had good compression when I removed it. Definitely could be cleaned up, but I would not have a problem using it in one of my builds (which isn't saying much). The black marks are just the old o-rings sticking to the top of the plate. I will never need it since I have no intention of building a MSP.
Let me know if you need it. I took it apart at 100k miles. Kinda shocking how small the exhaust port gets with carbon build up. Motor was not blown and had good compression when I removed it. Definitely could be cleaned up, but I would not have a problem using it in one of my builds (which isn't saying much). The black marks are just the old o-rings sticking to the top of the plate. I will never need it since I have no intention of building a MSP.
Stroker - Yes, definitely interested. I want to pull, disassemble my engine, and confirm my suspicion first. Then I'll reach out. THANK YOU.
Progress Update:
... I suspect a cracked front iron... So, the engines coming out again, to inspect, validate & correct the problem. ...
Progress Update: So, pulled the engine. Happy to say it gets easier... grrrrr that I know that. Secured the engine on the stand, plugged all the minor coolant inlet / outlets, and fed water into the main inlet via a funnel. I'd suspected i had a cracked front iron, but thankfully, learned that I didn't. The engine doesn't have to come apart again.
Never seen that before... So weird. Have you pulled the front cover and check the front iron yet?
Yeah, agreed...weird. Hoping this is the last hurdle.
No, I haven't pulled the front cover. Did the water test...which revealed the leak at the freeze plug. My thought is to repair the plug, water test the system again for any additional leaks, and proceed from there.
Any idea what caused the hole in the freeze plug? Corrrosion?
Yes, corrosion... from inside out. It's why we should use 50/50 mix antifreeze... in addition to its lowered freezing temp.
Mine is a reman'd engine...w/likely >100k mi., i.e. prev. life unknown (care & miles)??? + 65k mi. I've put on it; so expect some refreshing w/b required.
- Pulled the flywheel & popped the freeze plug today. Looked, but couldn't find a replacement in town. So, an Atkins order it is.
- Deductively checked for cracks at the front iron: slightly loosened and re-torqued the studs to ensure each "held" 42 ft# torque, and they all did. (Reduced torque a few ft#s)
- Took advantage of the engine being out and re-wrapped a section of my exhaust manifold.
Oil filter reloc mount leak ideas???
I was experiencing some minor oil leaking from the oil filter reloc head mount (77.2 mm O.D.) and the main oil filter pedestal mount (70.1mm O.D.) where it mates. It causes only the first o-ring of the reloc mount to seal against the pedestal, Seals sometimes...sometimes it doesn't. Don’t want to re-create the wheel here...
Have others encountered this? What has worked to resolve it?
My thought is to fabricate and sandwich a “flange” using the pedestal I.D. and the reloc mount O.D. between the two. Install a gasket between the pedestal & flange bottom. Then both reloc mount o-rings will seal against the top of the flange. Thoughts?
Oil filter pedestal mount: 70.1mm O.D.
Reloc head mount: 77.2 mm O.D.
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my seal deteriorated so I just went to local 'o' ring shop and got one for the inner ring only ... seals just fine .
Understood. Mine seals...sometimes. So, I'm hoping to ensure a more consistent seal b/c as you know if it leaks...the UIM needs to come off to reach it.
I think my "flange" idea has merit, if I can find or make a good gasket to install between the mount and flange.
edit: On a quick search... some adhesive backed cork or similar gasket making material should do fine.
Kind of ironic that a freeze plug is supposed to save your engine and yours may have killed it or contributed to killing it the first go round..
Stroker,
You're right... though I prefer to avoid that word "killed" concerning our engines. But I went back and reviewed some pics after initial disassembly, and found the freeze plug had evidently been leaking for quite a while. Didn't give it much thought at the time.
Even after cleaning considerable gunk... a "trail" from the offending frz-plug can still be seen. Evidently, a thorough cleaning of the components prior to reassembly removed enough rust & gunk to cause the full on leak when the engine was reassembled and started. Note: It did not show visible signs of leaking until started.
Understood. Mine seals...sometimes. So, I'm hoping to ensure a more consistent seal b/c as you know if it leaks...the UIM needs to come off to reach it.
I think my "flange" idea has merit, if I can find or make a good gasket to install between the mount and flange.
edit: On a quick search... some adhesive backed cork or similar gasket making material should do fine.
That "flange " idea might not work ..... especially if cork is exposed to oil flow (and it will be they way you described it) . After a while the cork will break up and end up in your oil.
Better to just buy a new o ring for the inner groove that has good crush ... it will seal.
That "flange " idea might not work ..... especially if cork is exposed to oil flow (and it will be they way you described it) . After a while the cork will break up and end up in your oil.
Better to just buy a new o ring for the inner groove that has good crush ... it will seal.
I know it can seal w/ just the inner o-ring. My did...then it didn't...and as we know...lol...it wasn't on that long.
So, I want the insurance of both o-rings sealing, if possible. The gasket will not be in the oil flow. It w/b completely sandwiched between the flange bottom and pedestal mounting surface. But as a precaution I'll avoid cork and try a rubber based gasket material. Something like this...
I know it can seal w/ just the inner o-ring. My did...then it didn't...and as we know...lol...it wasn't on that long.
So, I want the insurance of both o-rings sealing, if possible. The gasket will not be in the oil flow. It w/b completely sandwiched between the flange bottom and pedestal mounting surface. But as a precaution I'll avoid cork and try a rubber based gasket material. Something like this...
Point of the flange is to extend the pedestal O.D. to provide surface for the reloc head unit's 2nd o-ring to seal. Since the flange and reloc head unit O.D. w/b the same... it s/b relatively easy to keep it centered as the head unit is turned down.
I envision something like this:
Flange idea to create surface area to allow both oil reloc head unit o-rings to seal.
The point of having two o rings wasn't to double the chance of a seal ...... it was so that the unit would work on multiple vehicles .If it isn't sealing properly now it's more likely to do with the cheap o rings they used than the design. What you propose to do just introduces more chances of failure via the rubber gasket which will probably spew out one side and leak ..........one day... IMO .
...If it isn't sealing properly now it's more likely to do with the cheap o rings they used than the design. What you propose to do just introduces more chances of failure via the rubber gasket which will probably spew out one side and leak ..........one day... IMO .
I have to agree with Bret on this. The likelihood of a gasket holding up to 60-70 psi with only the squeeze from the relocation head clamping it in place isn’t very good. I’d get some good quality viton o-rings to replace what came with the adapter head. If you’re set on the flange concept, I’d machine a pocket in it to trap the gasket in place.
The point of having two o rings wasn't to double the chance of a seal ...... it was so that the unit would work on multiple vehicles .If it isn't sealing properly now it's more likely to do with the cheap o rings they used than the design. What you propose to do just introduces more chances of failure via the rubber gasket which will probably spew out one side and leak ..........one day... IMO .
Originally Posted by TomD_Cincy
I have to agree with Bret on this. The likelihood of a gasket holding up to 60-70 psi with only the squeeze from the relocation head clamping it in place isn’t very good. I’d get some good quality viton o-rings to replace what came with the adapter head. If you’re set on the flange concept, I’d machine a pocket in it to trap the gasket in place.
Brettus / Tom - Thanks for your feedback. I'll definitely upgrade the existing to a new viton o-ring, ...but will continue developing the flange idea until convinced it won't work. Either way...it will get sealed.
What about using this instead of fabbing your own flange. I didnt relocate my filter but I'm using this adapter for my turbo feed oil. If I recall correctly (and forgive me if i'm wrong as it's been 8 years since I installed it) but I believe this has a larger OD than the stock oil filter mount. I'm pretty sure when I replace my oil filter the Greddy adapter is a larger OD than my filter is. May have to do some research on what it's actual OD is but it could be an option to mount your relocate kit to if it's big enough without any fab required.
When I get home tonight I could have a look at mine closer for you if you think it would work.
RMRx - Thanks. Good thought ...I'll investigate using an oil sandwich adapter to meet my objective as well. I actually have one...purchased it...then decided to relocate the oil filter so I could tap the clean oil return.
So do you have an inline filter after the sandwich plate on your turbo feed?
Given sufficient vertical space...using the sandwich adapter just may work out. Confirmed ...it's OD is perfect...and, of course, it already has a gasket to seal to the pedestal.
RMRx - Thanks. Good thought ...I'll investigate using an oil sandwich adapter to meet my objective as well. I actually have one...purchased it...then decided to relocate the oil filter so I could tap the clean oil return.
So do you have an inline filter after the sandwich plate on your turbo feed?
No, against all good advice I never did install an inline filter. My theory is that I change the oil every 5000kms and have to add 1qt of fresh oil between every oil change, so my oil never has the opportunity to get too "dirty".
I'm not saying you need to change where you are feeding your oil (obviously cleaner is better), it will work just fine the way you have it but if you already have the sandwich adaptor then may as well use it rather than fab an entirely new flange. I was thinking you could mount your relocation kit to the adaptor and just leave all the ports on the adaptor plugged. Like you said, if there is enough room to fit it all behind that damn UIM!
01-21-2019, 03:53 PM
