can too much engine oil be bad in my specific case?
I'm in a difficult situation. Engine's mounted/running, but I can't get to the dipstick because the engine sits too far into the tranny tunnel. I also have custom oil pan built, so I have NOOO idea what my oil capacity or level is.
I do have a good oil pressure gauge, and it's reading 60psi at idle and over 100psi at anything over 3000rpm. I have about 9qt's of oil in it right now, and this is a complete guess. now my setup: - 20b - fill tube is left open to atmosphere as breather - there is no connection from the oil chamber to my intake as long as there isn't one inside of engine (i didn't build the engine, so whatever is inside is still unknown to me) - 9qt's of oil! - this is a guess if it can hurt the engine, could someone explain how? thanks in advance! |
Stick---come on--there is a reason there is a full level on an oil dipstick.
But since you asked---imho it has more to do with pressure within the sump. In our cars when on track--if you have a full or a little over full on the dipstick we get blow back from the sump. I dont know the physical locations of all the internall engine oil channels/vents etc-but i bet some of them will not drain well with too much oil. Just fix it:) and run that bad boy! |
Spent the money for a 20b, and don't know oil capacity/ isssues... Yikes
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Surely you can move bend or relocate the dipstick. Well lets be honest here you need to get to it just figure out how to make that work.
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Dont fuck up your 20B over basic maintenance. Find a solution.
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Being all custom, someone should have measured the oil pan capacity. Add in the oil cooler/s and line capacity and figure out the correct volume of oil.
Also get some sort of working dipstick in the engine when you've figured out the oil capacity. |
hey man, i learned how to tig weld so i can fix manifold issue no professional welder will even attempt. i even took subframe down to route all the massive AN tubes properly. i did everything to get this done right. reason for not being able to access dipstick is not secondary to laziness or attempting to shortcut. the access hole is right up against the transmission tunnel wall which had been hammered to hell and back. i installed teflon lined hose with flexible dipstick of 3 different kinds which all failed. so i gave up... i've really exhausted all that i know how to get a dipstick installed.. only option left is drill through the firewall which i'm not willing to do or drill into the front housing, which i'm scared of doing.
certainly, too little oil is worse than too much oil... oil pressure is currently ok. i understand why too much oil is not ideal.. but given my circumstances, i was curious to know whether it's actually harmful to the engine and how if it is... |
There is no where for the oil to go to actually hurt anything internally in the engine. Unlike a piston engine with components open to the oil pan. Unless you put in about a gallon or more to much. Then it could back up into the center irons and flood the E-Shaft around the rotor bearings. And not sure what that would do.
If I were you I would make a dipstick off the oil pan itself. Cut and weld a tube on the pan and find a dipstick that fits. Figure out the capacity you have and fill it to that point. Install dipstick and mark it accordingly. |
thanks man. i'll keep thinking. i thought of welding a tube into the pan but i can only do it coming from the side at the most at 50deg angle. i have exhaust manifold spaghetti on passenger side and a/c on the driver side which is blocking all the access points in front of firewall. to describe how tight spacing is... my AN-10 a/c hose has absolutely no space to be routed to the a/c condenser, but AN-6 hose will fit barely over the sway bar.
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Something like this,,,,
http://www.marine-discounter.de/medi...Art18-0616.jpg Then add this,,,, http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/600/697/697-22011.jpg |
It could actually come straight out and then turn upwards. As long as it starts in the pan below the oil level. Just don't make the tube come out and turn down below an 80 degree angle to straight up vertical. That could allow puddling of oil in the tube and a false oil level reading.
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let me take some photos and let u look at what i'm dealing with.. my oil pan is about 2-3inches deep with spring loaded baffle flaps inside to keep the oil centered. it doesn't have the oil recess most pans have.. that's why i can't really access it from the side without being unpractically horizontal on the approach without hitting the side walls.
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3 Attachment(s)
first pic shows how low the engine is mounted. second and third pics show that subframe actually cradles the entire engine along its edge. no approach point from the side.
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btw, that dip stick as shown is designed to be snaked through many bends for hot rods. i filed it down and gradually polished it eventually with 1000 grit. but after mounting the engine, it's again stuck in its place.
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Just run a tube out the side and make it turn vertically when you can. Just make sure the angle of the tube is on an incline so as to not allow puddling of oil in the tube. And make sure it's low enough where it comes out the pan to get an accurate reading on the oil level.
Just run the tube out to the side of the car right behind the left front wheel. Then you wouldn't have to open the hood to check the oil. :rofl: :suspect: |
lol i'll keep that in mind before drilling into the front housing...
so i take it no harm will be done even if "too much" engine oil is used?? is this the final answer? :) just make sure oil pan is vented and not connected to the intake. |
We don't have a capacity amount to start with as being correct. So how much oil is too much?
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Do it the old-fashioned way: sighting glass or clear tube on the oil pan itself. Put it in a spot on the pan where you can see it from the curb, or with a mechanic's mirror.
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That's clever.. just like a motorcycle.
Better use a thick and correct type of glass if you do this. |
stick--how about an electrical oil level sensor like the rx8 has? once it is determine what level you need--then just mount a sensor to coordinate with that. Then have an oil pressure gauge with a warning light as a back up? Maybe that will work?
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lets have a sensor to monitor the sensor :pat:
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now you are thinking like me:)
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But what if that sensor fails?!
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replace it--it fails in an activated mode
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Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 4284717)
now you are thinking like me:)
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