GT3076r turbo build w/pics (top mount)
 

Hey guys. Just wanted to share my top mount creation I made ever since I sold my greddy kit.

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I'm looking at the pictures like


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5cd9f21bb.jpeg

Lol I'll re upload. Thanks

Looks great! What are you using for the ECU?

Thanks. I'm still using the Cobb as a tuning option

Could you fill us in with a few more details? E.g. How do you find the top mount compared to your old Greddy setup? Most of us haven't had the opportunity to compare them side by side. All stock internals on the rebuild? Reason for rebuild? What boost levels have you run on the Greddy and plan to run on this new setup?
Thanks for sharing.

Have you already been using cobb? I had a top mount kit similar to this (PTP) and you may find you'll have great difficulty with tuning. Unless you've managed to use some sort of airflow honey comb to aid in MAF readings, but even then since you have the MAF pre turbo, you may find it easier to look into other options given this setup...

^ Are you saying you had your MAF post turbo??

I ran the stock GReddy intake for years and although I know it is far from perfect I had zero drive-ability issues with the AP as my tuning method. Idle got a bit bumpy at times though.

What is the diameter of the compressor outlet piping compared to the GReddy? Same size? Hard to tell from photos. The only thing I'm not a huge fan of is the five 90deg bends pre-intercooler.

Same as JimmyBlack stated above; I'm also very curious to hear a comparison of the top mount compared to the low mount setup now that you've had both.

Nice build, keep us posted!

Thanks guys, the turbo inlet is a 4" scaling down to a 3.5" pipe. The maf housing is a Treadstone housing with the honeycomb fit tend there. The outlet is a 2.5". As far as tuning, rotary machine nailed it, the idle is a problem sometimes. I may also have to replace my neutral switch since it affects idle and seems to be failing. The reason for the rebuild is because I wanted to use Goopy seals with new oem side and corner seals as my engine was approaching high mileage territory. Currently with this new setup, I'm running max 10lbs of boost and my max g/s is 340 g/s.

Compared this setup to the greddy setup is night and day in terms of top end performance. I'm running a gt3076r with a a/r of .82 on the turbine end. This setup spools a little later than the Greddy at 4000 rpms but doesn't run out of steam past 6000 rpm. It's a joy to drive knowing that I'm not completely toasting my charge temps when going WOT. Now there is a downside; HEAT! Because the heat is trapped under the hood my coolant temps quickly rise when idling heat soaking my aluminum rad. My options are to install a secondary rad like MM and 9k did and/or buy a vented hood.

Nice clean setup ... good job .
The drawbacks of a top mount are hard to overcome unfortunately .
Would like to have seen an EFR 7670 in place of the 3076 (assuming 10-12psi is your max goal)

Was scrolling through the pics and noticed you assembled your engine stand backwards... lol.

Brettus, had a question for you. How far have you pushed the renesis? I was told 400g/s is the max before the ecu runs out of resolution. My goal was roughly 10 psi but wanted to see how 12-15 would feel with additional cooling of both coolant and charge temp.

I was reading threads about that turbo

Max. i got to was 420ish g/s (15-16psi at peak rpm) which translated to around 375whp peak on a conservative dyno . On a cold day I would flatline the MAF at 5v at those settings.

I later dialed that back to around 375g/s (or 12-13psi) because I found it was too close to the edge . My belief is that backpressure was much more of a factor in that than IAT was .Cooling the charge air is largely ineffective once you get to that point IMO.
I think your turbo will suffer the same plight at slightly higher whp than i achieved . Mainly because of the small turbine side . I wouldn't take it past 13-14 if I were you .

looks strange with the oem engine cover

a better quality, more efficient intercooler can help keep the higher boost charge temperatures in check

I agree Team. I switched from the greddy IC TO a treadstone TR8 IC. Supposed to be more efficient.

From his post it seems his intercooler is good enough but the engine bay is getting hot when stood which is making the coolant temp increase.

I'd go vented bonnet route with maybe a "bay temperature" controlled fan if you have the room???

My comment had nothing to do with engine coolant temperature. It addresses the high compressor intake air exit temperature resulting from pushing the turbo out into the max flow/low efficiency compressor map area per a post by Brettus. Coolant and engine bay temperatures are different subjects requiring different solutions.

Ah, ok. :) didn't realise you were refering to Brettus post :cuddle: :p:

Just picked up a s2 fan and shroud

that video should be tagged for porn... :p:

Nice ... when's the dyno ?