Al's Nitrous Install Thread!
01-04-2009, 07:22 PM
#51
From my experiences it reads 67% at wide open throttle. Mine hits that number then drops a little bit to 66.8-9 %. You might try resetting it and see if it comes on more toward 67.0 %.
It's reading voltage at the TPS at that WOT point. So it just means it's reading max voltage a little sooner than WOT. Try resetting the ZEX module.
It's reading voltage at the TPS at that WOT point. So it just means it's reading max voltage a little sooner than WOT. Try resetting the ZEX module.
Although I did reprogram it a few times.. but then I left it like that because I thought it was normal. The solenoids click a bit before the pedal was all the way to the floor...
And yes the car was fully warmed up prior to programming..
01-04-2009, 07:31 PM
#52
Can I do that now that all the hoses are hooked up? Like if I were to just turn the key to 'ON' and reprogram it?
Although I did reprogram it a few times.. but then I left it like that because I thought it was normal. The solenoids click a bit before the pedal was all the way to the floor...
And yes the car was fully warmed up prior to programming..
Although I did reprogram it a few times.. but then I left it like that because I thought it was normal. The solenoids click a bit before the pedal was all the way to the floor...
And yes the car was fully warmed up prior to programming..
01-04-2009, 10:57 PM
#53
looking good so far, hope all goes well when it's all said and done.
Did you have the accordion part off at all? I ask because I'm looking at getting the spacer and will need to replace the accordion part at the same time and wondering if it will be more difficult... I have the RB intake but I cant really recall if it's a tighter fit the the RB or stock box... it does look a lot cleaner to have the spacer there though.
Did you have the accordion part off at all? I ask because I'm looking at getting the spacer and will need to replace the accordion part at the same time and wondering if it will be more difficult... I have the RB intake but I cant really recall if it's a tighter fit the the RB or stock box... it does look a lot cleaner to have the spacer there though.
01-04-2009, 11:31 PM
#54
looking good so far, hope all goes well when it's all said and done.
Did you have the accordion part off at all? I ask because I'm looking at getting the spacer and will need to replace the accordion part at the same time and wondering if it will be more difficult... I have the RB intake but I cant really recall if it's a tighter fit the the RB or stock box... it does look a lot cleaner to have the spacer there though.
Did you have the accordion part off at all? I ask because I'm looking at getting the spacer and will need to replace the accordion part at the same time and wondering if it will be more difficult... I have the RB intake but I cant really recall if it's a tighter fit the the RB or stock box... it does look a lot cleaner to have the spacer there though.
On a positive note, yes the spacer definitely makes for a clean ninja install. I cheaped out and didn't get the BHR nozzle to make it all ultra stealth and hidden.. but $ runs low. Just piped down $400 for a midpipe I wanted for a while.
01-05-2009, 06:46 AM
#56
Yeah I had the accordion tube off and on tried so many ways to get that damn thing to fit. In the end I had the accordion tube and the intake box connected and I forced in the same way I took it out.. I did have to chip out the little clip that holds up the vacuum tube for the intake tube though, no biggie. It was a PITA. So much of a PITA that I don't EVER want to remove that intake box again unless I'm uninstalling it all. That had to be the most "labor" intensive part of the whole install so far.
On a positive note, yes the spacer definitely makes for a clean ninja install. I cheaped out and didn't get the BHR nozzle to make it all ultra stealth and hidden.. but $ runs low. Just piped down $400 for a midpipe I wanted for a while.
On a positive note, yes the spacer definitely makes for a clean ninja install. I cheaped out and didn't get the BHR nozzle to make it all ultra stealth and hidden.. but $ runs low. Just piped down $400 for a midpipe I wanted for a while.
The midpipe is worth it... I originally went with the supercat which was nice but I just went ahead and dropped the money on the catless and I'm very satisfied. I'm guessing you went with the RP?
edit: just remembered I need to make damn sure that the lines will reach from where I have the module mounted to the location of the spacer because I'd really rather not have to move the module... I'd almost prefer dropping the cash to get longer lines to reeach...
Last edited by 8 Maniac; 01-05-2009 at 06:48 AM.
01-05-2009, 12:01 PM
#57
fun... now I'm really looking forward to getting that lol. I'm probably not going with the stealth nozzle either.
The midpipe is worth it... I originally went with the supercat which was nice but I just went ahead and dropped the money on the catless and I'm very satisfied. I'm guessing you went with the RP?
edit: just remembered I need to make damn sure that the lines will reach from where I have the module mounted to the location of the spacer because I'd really rather not have to move the module... I'd almost prefer dropping the cash to get longer lines to reeach...
The midpipe is worth it... I originally went with the supercat which was nice but I just went ahead and dropped the money on the catless and I'm very satisfied. I'm guessing you went with the RP?
edit: just remembered I need to make damn sure that the lines will reach from where I have the module mounted to the location of the spacer because I'd really rather not have to move the module... I'd almost prefer dropping the cash to get longer lines to reeach...
Like everything else, fitting the spacer on when using the factory accordion duct is only tough the first time you mess with it. I have had mine on and off few times and I am familiar with the angles now.
"wcs" reports no need to mess with anything while using the RB airbox.
"wcs" reports no need to mess with anything while using the RB airbox.
01-05-2009, 05:01 PM
#58
So I sprayed today. New pix on 3rd post.
It wasn't really what I was expecting!! I heard it and felt it there.. but it just wasn't the UMPH! Maybe I did something wrong? The sound the engine makes when it sprays is vicious though.
I will see if i can get chrism to ride in my car with me tomorrow to see if this is how he felt or if there was something more.
It is definitely there.. maybe I'm just thinking I did something wrong?
two things to add:
1. I'm temporarily using the existing hole in the trunk to route the nitrous line. As can be seen in the pictures...
2. While spraying on 2 attempts the car actually shut off on me as soon as I let off the throttle! I put it in gear however and she quickly came back alive.. but what could that be indicative off?
It wasn't really what I was expecting!! I heard it and felt it there.. but it just wasn't the UMPH! Maybe I did something wrong? The sound the engine makes when it sprays is vicious though.
I will see if i can get chrism to ride in my car with me tomorrow to see if this is how he felt or if there was something more.
It is definitely there.. maybe I'm just thinking I did something wrong?
two things to add:
1. I'm temporarily using the existing hole in the trunk to route the nitrous line. As can be seen in the pictures...
2. While spraying on 2 attempts the car actually shut off on me as soon as I let off the throttle! I put it in gear however and she quickly came back alive.. but what could that be indicative off?
Last edited by alz0rz; 01-05-2009 at 05:28 PM.
01-05-2009, 07:55 PM
#60
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im assuming you put the clutch in after the pull with spray and it shut off? then let out the clutch while it was in gear and it got going again
could be that since its spraying your effectively changing the A/F ratios while your spraying and this could cause it to bog down at idle? idk anyone elses thoughts?
could be that since its spraying your effectively changing the A/F ratios while your spraying and this could cause it to bog down at idle? idk anyone elses thoughts?
01-05-2009, 07:57 PM
#61
im assuming you put the clutch in after the pull with spray and it shut off? then let out the clutch while it was in gear and it got going again
could be that since its spraying your effectively changing the A/F ratios while your spraying and this could cause it to bog down at idle? idk anyone elses thoughts?
could be that since its spraying your effectively changing the A/F ratios while your spraying and this could cause it to bog down at idle? idk anyone elses thoughts?
01-05-2009, 08:50 PM
#63
Thanks!
With that said it looks like I may have to take off the stock intake again!!
I didn't completely tighten a bolt on the throttle body and it's unreachable at the moment. I also will look into relocating the ZEX module. I am probably picking up a purge kit so the Tee fitting to the purge solenoid will most definitely not fit where I have the ZEX module right now. I will also be hooking up the sending unit for a nitrous pressure gauge at the module itself so I need more room. I'm thinking of mounting it on the intake tray itself.
With that said it looks like I may have to take off the stock intake again!!
I didn't completely tighten a bolt on the throttle body and it's unreachable at the moment. I also will look into relocating the ZEX module. I am probably picking up a purge kit so the Tee fitting to the purge solenoid will most definitely not fit where I have the ZEX module right now. I will also be hooking up the sending unit for a nitrous pressure gauge at the module itself so I need more room. I'm thinking of mounting it on the intake tray itself.
01-05-2009, 08:54 PM
#64
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well think about it, you know how you should spray at WOT, well if u sprayed, then let off the gas and put the clutch in you still have nitrous coming in, just a little in the lines and IM right?
so im gonna say nitrous when the engine is at idle isnt good and can bog it down?
so im gonna say nitrous when the engine is at idle isnt good and can bog it down?
01-06-2009, 01:30 AM
#65
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well think about it, you know how you should spray at WOT, well if u sprayed, then let off the gas and put the clutch in you still have nitrous coming in, just a little in the lines and IM right?
so im gonna say nitrous when the engine is at idle isnt good and can bog it down?
so im gonna say nitrous when the engine is at idle isnt good and can bog it down?
IDK about one? Cuz when you let off the gas the slonid closes and there is no PSI to push out the left over nitrous catch my drift? Its always good to shut it off before you let off the gas. But car shutting off? That's scary! Never happened to me I'm gonna say not normal any CELs?
01-06-2009, 11:57 AM
#66
Al's admission of having made the error in not fully torquing all four throttle body bolts leads me to believe that the likely vacuum leak under closed-throttle, high-RPM, conditions is the problem.
I would encourage Al to double-check the o-ring seating in the spacer before tightening that last bolt.
I would encourage Al to double-check the o-ring seating in the spacer before tightening that last bolt.
01-06-2009, 02:40 PM
#68
RX8 & RX7 owner
how long will a 10lb bottle last?? squeezing 50 shot? i am very interested looking in purchasing this ZEX kit and the throttle space and other stuff from BHR, i would also have to get the COB AP after also, i wanna buy everything, this thread outta all look like a clean install, good mounting point for the module,....but a question. Stealth nozzles instead of purple ones? black steel braided fuel lines? Keeping everything real stealthy, the module can stay purple as it is hidden under the air box am i correct?
01-06-2009, 04:08 PM
#69
how long will a 10lb bottle last?? squeezing 50 shot? i am very interested looking in purchasing this ZEX kit and the throttle space and other stuff from BHR, i would also have to get the COB AP after also, i wanna buy everything, this thread outta all look like a clean install, good mounting point for the module,....but a question. Stealth nozzles instead of purple ones? black steel braided fuel lines? Keeping everything real stealthy, the module can stay purple as it is hidden under the air box am i correct?
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So I tried it out today as well. I realized my bottle warmer SUCKED in the position it was in.. I did some readjusting, and even though the heating element took forever I finally got up to 900-1000 psi after something like 30 minutes of the bottle warmer on. It definitely made a difference in what I felt.
The motor screammmms in agony! This is fun.
01-06-2009, 07:41 PM
#72
Arrrrrrrrr!!!The best way I can describe my experience when in "boost" is a harder VTEC transition. The sound the engine makes at that point is vicious and the pull is hard through to redline! Maybe not what I was ultimately expecting but will definitely make more cars familiar with the rear end of an RX8.
Last edited by alz0rz; 01-06-2009 at 07:47 PM.
01-06-2009, 07:55 PM
#73
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Haha, I was just looking at your sig and said "Theres a dent in your driver door!" Then I looked closer and noticed that its just you taking the picture of the car LOL
Im glad to hear its all working well. The install looks really good!
Im glad to hear its all working well. The install looks really good!
01-06-2009, 07:56 PM
#74
And its funny you say there was a dent... because I just posted this: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-multimedia-photo-gallery-6/i-hate-human-race-163930/
01-06-2009, 08:01 PM
#75
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Ouch man, that really sucks! I just had a hit and run in my beater about 2 weeks ago. If my RX hadnt been torn I could of been in the same boat cept it was driver's side.