subwoofer question
 

I have a 10 inch with 2 inch coil and 4 ohms. I want to replace them with JL audio 10w3v2 2.5 inch coil and Im buying 4 ohms as well. Knowing that the coil is different will this matter? And what about the ohms does it really have to be 4 ohms? Any input would help. Thanks

i don't think the coil size matters since that filters out higher frequencies. as long as your amps RMS level is equal to or more than your subs at 4 ohms. i think... :confused: dammit...i guess that wasn't much help, eh? :(

if you are getting a 10W3v2 at 4 ohms, it actually has dual 4 ohm voice coils. Which means you can either run it at 4 ohms (with the voice coils wired in series), or drop it down to 2 ohms (with the voice coils wired parallel). If you are running the sub off of a JL Audio amplifier (a 250/1 would be about right for that sub), you'll be fine at either level of impedance, but 2 ohms will be a little better than 4.

too add to Scud...you will in a sense be alittle better meaning....you will essentially be squeezing every ounce of power out of the 250/1 amp...dropping to a 2ohm load means you are drastically increasing the power output of the amp...yes it will be a much louder system, unless you have a really lousy installer.....you get more for your money dropping the ohm's but all that doesn't matter unless you have someone with the know-how on enclosures and fitment...

I already have a system in my car. I have 2 10" rockford fostage RFP3410 and a sony xplod 760w. Someone told me to get JL audio 500/1 with 2 10w3v2's. So should I get this?

I already have a custom made box that can fit 2 10". I just want to upgrade the subs and amp.

All 10's aren't created equal. Every subwoofer has an optimal enclosure volume associated with it; your current box might not be the best answer for the JL subs. And I think that was me that told you that a 500/1 would be a good fit for two 10w3V2s. :D

do you have any pictuers of your box with the subs you have now?

what would happen if its not the ideal box? Well the box fits perfectly in the rectangular hole in the trunk. Like you know how when you open the trunk u have that hole in the middle. The box fits right in and it sticks up about 3-4inches. Knowing that I want to get 2 10w3v2 I should probably need 500/1 correct?

I'll take a pic of it later on today.

well...for instance...

for the RFP3410's require a sealed enclosure volume of .75 cu. ft/1.00 cu. ft ported (each)

the 10W3V2's require a sealed enclosure volume of .60-.90 cu. ft/1.00-1.50 cu. ft ported (each)

so you will probably be ok to keep your current enclosure, if it's been built to spec...

you'll definitely want to go with the 500/1, the 250/1 is to small of an amp for those 2 subs...

The two 4 ohm voice coils in series will be 8 ohms not 4. If you really want a 4 ohm load you should go with the "d2" sub which has two 2 ohm coils, which wired in series become 4.

-Mr. Wigggles

Thanks

Right, but she's running two subs, so if she wires the coils in series, then the subs in parallel she'll get back down to 4. I sort of left that part out. My bad. :o

And a 1000/1 would be too much for two of them

Ok so 2 10w3v2 4 ohms and 500/1 will work? Im buying it next week.

I dont know about all that. I'm running a 1200/1 on a pair of 10's. Im not sure what the JL's are rated at, but my kickers claim 600 watts/per if I remember correctly

Here are the pics of the box and subs let me know if the 2 10w3v2's and the custom made box will work. And one more thing any suggestions on where the best place to put the amp aside from where I have it now?

Looks about right if thats a sealed box. How about you take some measurements and we can come up with something. Its really hard to say without knowing dimensions.

JLs 10W3s are rated at 300 watts RMS.

If you want to do calculations for box enclosures v. sound output, position/sizing or anything else you want to know, get a program called WinISD (normal or pro)

http://www.linearteam.dk/
is the link.


I have used it consistently for YEARS now in designing boxes for pleasure and for PAIN (created some 150+ db systems and 1 160+). It will give you just about ANY data you want. There is a slight learning curve on it, but not too much to overcome.

This data includes how much you can put through the sub in an enclosure (RMS is rated at the recommended box specs). You can do more or less depending on how big your box is... and the period of time you are running the system. I have run hundreds-thousands of watts over RMS in MASSIVE boxes for anything from regular driving to 'burping' a system. Just an FYI :)