prosport gauges/rb pod wiring question
 

I'm installing my Prosport Premium gauges+ the RB pod, I'm almost finished, but I'm stuck at the wiring portion. I've been using the instructions that came with the kit, + Gecko69's diy " https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...=lotek+install "

Now my wires seem a little different, so I wanted to double check with others who have installed these gauges.

The cars wiring bundle for the cig light, power, light, etc is..
1-Yellow,
2-Black with a Red stripe,
3-White with a Red stripe,
4-Red with a Yellow stripe.

The wires I'll be tapping into " these are coming from the gauges themselves."
1-Red
2-White
3-Orange
4-Black

So the finished product should be..

1-Cars White/red is capped off. " since its not used"
2-cars Black/red is tapped with gauges Black. " for ground"
3-Cars Red/Yellow is tapped to the gauges Orange."power when lights are on"
4-Cars Yellow is tapped to both the gauges white wire AND red wire. " for when lights are off.

So I should be okay with the above correct?

Edit, I should probably mention that the only real difference between gecko69's diy, and my wiring set up is the cars Red/yellow wire. His is Red/Orange.

I think you need an extra wire to permanent power (red gauge wire). This is for the memory function of the gauge.
At cig there is no permanent power wire.

Hmm, makes sense. So what would be a good constant power source, and where would I find a diy that includes that aswell?


Edit, anyone know where else besides the 15w fuse room fuse?

There should be constant power at the radio, because the radio has a memory function, too. But I don't know which wire it is.

the red one.

At the radio is a full red wire with constant power ?

yes.

Just had to bump this thread, I tried soldering in the permanent power wire to the said red one in the back of the radio. It didn't work. I'm still trying to figure out which wire to the radio uses perm. power..

I'm posting from work so no pictures, but if I remember correctly, I ran a either 12 or 18 gauge wire that was soldered to the red wire, over into the driverside, under-dash fuse area. I forgot which I tapped, but I used a fuse tap adapter to do it.

I'll see if I can get pictures when I get home. Or if someone could go ahead and do that for me lol.

This shit is starting to piss me off. I understand some run it to the fuse box, well I ran it to the audio since it's right there. I have to disagree with Nuke, the red off the audio is NOT constant. The yellow one is any even instructions from some DIN kits say the same thing. I tested this and the memory works but there are still issues that baffle me:

White(gauge) = acc
Red(gauge) = constant

White & red from gauge to yellow acc off cig lighter = no memory but all gauges work properly

White from gauge to yellow acc off cig lighter and red from gauge to yellow constant off car = only the oil temp gauge works proper. The oil pressure starts the needle at maximum and water temp at 1/4 of the gauge and do not settle back down to 0 with the key turned off either. Memory works so that mute option stays selected when turning off and on the car. The wires are hooked up theoretically sound, so what is the problem?

Mixing the wires up, white from gauge to yellow constant off car and red from gauge to yellow acc off car = same thing as scenario 1, no memory because you're running your constant from the gauge to an acc off the car. Gauges work normally nonetheless.

white & red from gauges to the yellow constant on the car = gauges on before the key is even turned, makes sense.

So this is what makes no sense; it takes both white & red from the gauge to be hooked to a constant source to stay on without the key being turned. Red constant from the gauge hooked to yellow constant from car only works properly for oil temp gauge, and throws the other 2 off initially as they do not settle to 0 but the memory function works.

W

T

F

Thought I would share my experience with these gauges and finding "constant voltage".
Instead of running the gauge's red wire (for constant voltage) to the ROOM fuse in the kick panel, I tapped mine into the OBD-II port's blue wire with red stripe.
Which this wire is running off the ROOM fuse anyway.

Now for me, since I have my OBD-II relocated to the ash tray, this made more sense.
But anyone else could still do this if they feel like soldering the wire at the port instead of installing an "add-a-fuse" to the ROOM fuse.

:lol: holy late Batman, but thanks anyhow Jon :D:

I simply used a Bussman fuse tap and plugged it into a few different fuse places until I found one that was constant. Problem is people kept saying, room fuse, but there is no freaking marking on the fuses or anywhere nor does anyone specifically point to which one is the room fuse in any of the threads I read on here in the past year so I just had to trial/error for myself.

Yeah... finally got off my ass to rewire this.
Of course I waited for it to be 97F outside...

Wait... no markings ANYWHERE...
Maybe you should have tried to look at the other side of the kick panel cover! :lol2:
Now that is some funny shit!

Dude, seriously, if it's there, wow, ultra fail :icon_no2:

Go take a look for yourself bud :)

teh baby jeezus just wept ...

Ouch lol.

Did you finish the install. If not you may want to invest in a $3 test light to see wich fuses have power all the time and which ones are accessory power.