OEM Cluster mod to make water temp and oil pressure gauges show actual values
 

I know you can add your own gauges with your own senders and all that but I was wondering if anyone has modified the original gauges so that they don't just sit there in the middle not moving at all (until it's too late).

Probably not easy since the mod would be electronic/electrical but I figured I'd ask.

nobody?

The cluster is controlled by the ECU, it's not worth the hassle. And the gauges will move if they need too. If they made them accurate they would be dealing with idiots taking the car in for service every time the gauge moved.

The idea is to mod his car to function that way. I don't see where he asked why it wasn't this way to begin with.

I see no reason why this won't work. The only thing standing in your way is a lot of fabrication, time and money. You'll need to essentially install an aftermarket gauge behind and/or inside the gauge cluster which seems... messy.

If you like to tinker, go for it and post results.

Some members just like to hate on things...

Possible is a relative term, good luck finding anyone with the time willing to dedicate and the understanding needed to interpret all that is going on with the OE signals and sensors and then explain the scaling to you on the gauge that currently has tick marks that have no derived numerical value.

Chances are you will invest thousands and not get the desired results when 2 100 dollar gauges would simply suffice.

This has been discussed many times before, and has never been done because it's just not feasible. Tinkering with the gauge cluster is a bad idea. But its nice to dream.

And if not blowing smoke up peoples asses makes me a hater then so be it. It's better than posting about BS I know nothing about (well wait I do that too damn it).

With older Mazda's it was a matter of changing some resistors and such to get the desired sweeping gauge. However, the RX-8's cluster is basically a printed circuit board with a few lights and a few electrically driven motors for the needles.

You would have to either A) Build a new cluster circuit board from scratch, B) adjust the command signal from the ECU, or C) bypass the circuit board completely.

C is what is easiest, and what happens when you just install an aftermarket gauge or something like DashCommand to pull OBD2 data directly.

Or just do like the rest of us and use Dashcommand/torque and save all the hassle.

Pretty much. K.I.S.S. (if only I followed that advice myself all the time).

Yes RIWWP, that's why I am asking. There is a relatively simple mod on the miatas that people do to get the oil pressure gauge to actually display real values.

I am aware the Rx8's cluster is much more complicated but I thought someone may have done it.
I just dont understand why Mazda would do this. This is a sports car and if you need accurate gauges somewhere, this car is where you need them.

And I'm sorry 9krpmrx8, but your explanation just doesn't hold water. There are plenty of cars with functioning gauges and people don't take their cars to the dealer al the time.

Do the new gen have proper gauges or is it the same thing there?

My explanation is why, whether you agree or not doesn't really matter. Mazda 3's don't even have them period.

http://images.thecarconnection.com/l...00327596_l.jpg

Having driven at least 30 different makes/models over the past decade with all my business travel and car rentals, plus the cars I have test driven, owned, etc... I can tell you that only 2 cars I have ever driven have fully sweeping coolant temp and oil pressure gauges. One was a 1993 RX-7, the other was a 1991 Miata.

MOST cars didn't even bother putting in even a dummy oil pressure gauge. Some cars the temperature gauge wasn't anything more than a "yes/no" light. MOST cars have had the exact same setup as the 8. The needle for the coolant temp swings upward as the car warms up, then hits a deadzone where coolant temp can change all it wants without any needle change.

Back in the 1990s, Mazda (among other manufacturers) had a problem with owners that see the needle a bit high or a bit low and panicking that something was wrong. They added the deadzone intentionally to stop hassle and warranty claims, etc... for the entire functional range that was considered "safe".

The part where they err'ed in doing this is that the upper limit of the deadzone is too high on most cars, AND they don't let the owners know how critically bad it is to let the needle move at all from that deadzone.


You won't find very many people on the forums that will disagree with you about wanting a fully functional gauge, but we are in the minority out there. And we take the easier route of just grabbing the data from OBD2 and ignoring the cluster gauge. Trying to hack the gauge cluster is lots of effort, unlikely to succeed, and there is an easier option available.

Sigh... I still think about getting the Racing Beat Gauge package. But don't want added noise leaking into the cabin. Awfully tempting, though.

noise leaking into the cabin?

:wallbash:

Yes. If you search on this forum, you'll find that some have reported a bit more noise in the cabin after installation. Nothing major, mind you, but it would bug me.

I have AM gauges, and there is no additional cabin noise. I have not read the threads you are referring to, but my initial guess would be the probably made larger than necessary holes to bring in the wiring. I simply used the exiting hole the clutch line goes through. It was quick and easy and most importantly already there.

On a separate note I guess you could open up the stock gauge cluster and just remove the stock gauges and replace it with AM gauges. It seems like it would be a PITA, but it would be clean and you would be looking at the dash instead of the top of the center console or in my case the ash tray area. If I can find a dash for cheap I may try it just to see what it looks like. If you could get it to mount properly the only bad would be the lighting would not match the stock lighting.

It makes no sense to use the mechanical gauges that come with the kit and deal with the hassle. Most smart people just buy the RB pod and use proper digital gauges. And I have never read, or heard of anyone claiming excess road noise from them and I know several people with the RB setup, although most have dumped the mechanical gauges due to the hassle.

But if road noise is your concern it would be stupid simple to place insulation behind the pod.

I wish their was another option besides the RB pod, not only are the supplie gauges crap, but the POD itself is not much better. The visibility of the gauges while driving is terrible, mine came cracked, fitment is loose.

All in all their should be a better option

Yeah, it's not that nice of a piece really.

Unfortunately its the only option we have, I wish SiLVeRE8 was still around doing his group buys on the dash pod. Those were nice pieces.

Yeah, I actually hate gauges and now have the dual vent pod and center gauge pod deal. But being turbo, you have to have some. Neither of them are great pieces in terms of fit and finish but we don't have many options aside from the uber expensive stuff available from Japan.

Yea, it s not the greatest unit I have ever seen, but it works. I bought mine used and just purchased digital guages from another source. Overall I'm pleased with the setup.

This seems fitting here https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-int...stalls-231245/