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On my way to succes!
in car audio that is.
UPDATE: SUBWOOFER and WIRING KIT just came in, AMP is on its way and for a LOC wondering if i got an adjustable one, what would settings be? what is security token missing mean? i need to upload pics to see if its safe to run the power wire through this grommet, it goes through the fire wall okay, but it touches a pipe, and i think it might be either an ac or heater pipe |
Good luck with that 10" .....
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Originally Posted by firebirdude
(Post 3060520)
Good luck with that 10" .....
and does anyone know if a subwoofer box can be made out of plastic? |
Originally Posted by always.anthony
(Post 3061604)
why "...."?
and does anyone know if a subwoofer box can be made out of plastic? Fiberglass/CarbonFibre will give you a great result. |
Originally Posted by Evan0925
(Post 3061817)
I've seen "boxes" made out of Lexan tube. The cylindrical design is sturdy enough. However, I wouldn't suggest making a box out of plastic. Why did you want plastic?
Fiberglass/CarbonFibre will give you a great result. and the boston g5 is rated at 450 rms at 4ohms would http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entert...iers/KAC-9104D would running at 500 rms give me any problems? or should i look for less power? is this a good deal? http://cgi.ebay.com/KENWOOD-KAC-8104...3%3A1|294%3A50 |
1. I don't think a 10" would fit in the passthrough.
2. I'm sure the center pass through "box" is not going to have enough air volume to make the sub work properly. |
Originally Posted by Socket7
(Post 3062086)
1. I don't think a 10" would fit in the passthrough.
2. I'm sure the center pass through "box" is not going to have enough air volume to make the sub work properly. Agree with #2 |
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i'm reverse mounting, the driver will be visible and the sub will be facing towards the rear.
like http://www.biline.ca/Pictures/basement/isobaric_sub.JPG the g5 works best in a .5 ft ^3 sealed enclosure, if i seal the box already existing i have plenty. |
Best of luck to you then.
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thanks thanks
and once again, would it be bad to run 500 rms to a 450 rms sub? pics coming soon! |
Nah, it'll probably be fine. Chances are you wont be able to turn it up loud enough to fry anything. Unless you're already 3/4ths deaf.
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anyone know what i should do for connection to the amp, i've read on forums loc is best, but after hu, or after bose amp? i've read good opinions on both. and i get people saying speaker level inputs suck, and that they're great. what should i do concerning amp hook up to car'?
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This was best answered by Socket7 in a post earlier today...
Originally Posted by Socket7
(Post 3064533)
the signal from the head unit itself is not a true speaker level signal. After the bose amp is. You may be able to make it work before the amp, but your gains will need to be much higher and you wont get as much bump, or sound quality.
For a complete system upgrade, sure, tap before the bose amp, that's the way I did it. For a bass upgrade though, tap after the amp. Otherwise you'll be feeding a much different signal to your sub then your other speakers, making it sound unbalanced. The Bose amp applies an EQ curve to the signal and you want that curve to be played by your sub so it will match the rest of the bose system. In the case of a full system upgrade, you want to be able to apply your own EQ curve, and so tapping before the bose amp is preferable. |
Originally Posted by WikkedOne
(Post 3064564)
This was best answered by Socket7 in a post earlier today...
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what is security token missing mean? i need to upload pics to see if its safe to run the power wire through this grommet, it goes through the fire wall okay, but it touches a pipe, and i think it might be either an ac or heater pipe
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