I was wondering if there is a general consensus about the best fitting speaker size in the front door location. I have the base stereo system in my car, and am looking to replace all the stock speakers. That should give some much-needed improvement

I know the rear speakers are 6x9 (and a pain to replace :p), but what are the fronts? Are component speakers with a 6.5" door woofer the best bet?
Anyone know if that's a direct drop-in size or is there any custom fabrication needed there?

Second thing is: what are the parameters to look for when selecting the proper component speakers? They need to work well with the stock head unit's amp, so they probably shouldn't require too much power... suggestions welcome.

Lastly, I don't think we have any good info on how to exactly take off the front door panels without breaking anything, so if someone happens to know (or has the shop manual with instructions), I'd greatly appreciate the info.

Thanks!

 

To get good sound quality, you'll need a reasonable amplifier and good quality component speakers. Apart from that, it's very much down to your taste in music, your ability to differentiate quality of reporduction and your budget. (I'd look for a 4 channel amp that accepts high level inputs).

The front doors can take very large speakers in terms of diameter (up to 9 inch), but the depth is the limiting factor. That said the most common 6.5 inch component speakers would fit. Custom mounting plates will probably be required.

Most door trim is fitted with press fasteners, just be slow and careful, don't force anything and use a torch if you can't see properly.

Try to match your front and rear speakers. Choosing the same brand and quality level can help with this. Just take your favourite cd's into a shop and listen to everything in your budget. (You could probably get them to play the speakers with head unit power only and with an amp).

If an amp blows the budget, just wire assuming you'll put one in later (using good quality speaker cable).

Kev.

 

Maybe this will give you some ideas: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-interior-audio-electronics-24/replacing-speakers-8033/

 

Yeah, I have seen that thread. Re-reading it, I have a few questions for you
So this means that the factory opening in the base setup is for a 6x8 speaker, right? Maybe I would be better off getting a 6x8 component speaker setup for the front... Infinity has a Reference series component set in that size, for instance. I'd like that in case if that would be a drop-in size in the factory location. Any opinions?

Or how about a 6 3/4" component setup? It would likely require some sort of a mounting plate I suppose... Question is if it is worth to go with this instead of a 6 1/2" setup.

You also say that you had one front door panel off. Any chance of explaining what fasteners did you have to deal with and how did you remove the panel? Maybe pictures?

Thanks.

 

Tamas:

Please also see this thread if you haven’t:

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...front+speakers

I would think a 6-3/4" setup would likely give lower bass, either this route or 6-1/2" speakers would need an adapter plate to cover part of the existing hole.

The following is from memory, I completed the job just two weeks ago, and don’t have detailed pictures. Please cut me some slack if things aren’t exactly as described, just be slow and methodical when doing this. Parts can’t be un-scratched or un-broken!

Door panel removal:

-Pull corner trim pieces on front of side windows out from door at top corner (one snap fastener)

-Remove trim piece around door latch by prying away screw cover from the front (I think) and remove screw. Carefully pull away.

-Pull power window/door lock panel out from lower, outside corner, (I wedged a stiff guitar pick under the corner) swivel out away from the bottom (while unclipping the spring clip at the bottom) then pull down and away to clear the upper tab on the control panel from the slot in the door panel. Unclip wiring harness plugs by pushing tabs straight in and pulling on connectors.

-Remove large Phillips head screw under switch panel.

-Remove large Phillips head screw from under back and rear of door pull handle. (it’s recessed really deeply, use a flashlight to locate)

-The door panel is held down now by 9 plastic clips, start at lower rear corner of panel, pry outward by wedging plastic guitar picks under the panel edge; (or something else that won’t scratch) I then wedged a straight blade screwdriver between the picks, pried outward enough to get my fingers under it, pulled, and popped the clips one by one out of the holes in the inner door skin. (visible in the picture) And if you are as lucky as I, a few of the clips will remain stuck in the door, and won’t pull out without a fight!

The panel pivots out at the bottom, held in place at the top by a leg that fits over the top sheetmetal door edge against the glass.

-After 9 clips have been pulled out, pivot panel away from door just enough to have clearance to pull the foot light socket with bulb away from the inside of the panel.

-Carefully pivot the door panel away from the door at the bottom, just enough to clear the door opener lever, and tap it up (parallel with the inner door face) with your hand, starting at the rear, to clear the leg that fits over the sheet metal edge at the top.

-Pull the panel a few inches clear of the inner door face and unclip the connector on the inside that connects to the light for the power window/door lock switches.

That should do it. Read backwards for re-assembly. Be careful getting the leg of the top of the panel to fit over the door’s upper metal edge and against the window; I slightly cracked the inner panel at the top front edge on one side. Don’t force things, they’ll drop into place if lined up properly.

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but i just wanted to thank KKMmaniac. The information you posted on removing the main door inner trim was "spot on" Thanks so much.

The only thing I wish I had when i removed mine was a pic of the underside of the trim so I could see where the plastic clips were located. So I took the liberty of taking such a shot. I'll include it here. They are the white dots around the edge and one just inside the edge near the swiches.

Again, KKMmaniac thanks for taking the time to document this information. It certinaly was useful.

 

Thank you for sharing this information (KKMmaniac, Kev, rotarygod, et al)!

I plan to replace the factory speakers with Focal separates (per rotorygod's recommendation).

I like the imaging in the Bose system, so I'm thinking that a 5 channel amp with speaker-level inputs might be a good idea--this would allow the dash "center" channel speaker to be included in the upgrade. Opinions are welcome

rotorygod: Can you recommend Focals (door + tweets + dash + rears) for a $500 U.S. budget? I plan to use an MTX or Rockford amp(s) for good performance / price--maybe another $300?

Also, does anyone know the best way to route the amp outputs to the door speakers?

Happy Holidays!