Bose Amp Schematics?
 

hey guys, I've been digging through the web all day long, and can't find any help! my driver side door speaker has been cutting in and out for about a year now... finally pulled the door apart and cracked the amp open... I traced the problem back to a faulty relay on the amps pcb board... problem is that the relay has no markings on it... I peeled the outer shell off of the relay to find NAiS 30911 ACP131 M12, but haven't been able to find anything with that info either... does anyone have access the the schematics for the Bose front door amps? or can any engineers tell me what that relay is and what model I can replace it with? thanks guys!

if you can't figure it out you can probably get one a replacement amp at a junk yard pretty cheap

I checked a couple junk yards and couldn't find one with an rx8... but yeah, that would also work... it would be cool to figure this out though, I've heard a few people with the same problem and a relay is under $5, so figuring out which one and making a DIY for it would be nice, and still a lot cheaper than a new amp... even at a junk yard...

Relay for door Amp
 

Both of my door amps stopped working. I also searched for the nais P/N to no avail. I sent one of my amps to Factory Car Stereo Repair in Flordia. They replaced the relay for $85.00. When it came back with an updated part I searched the web for the new P/N and found it right away. It only cost me $3.56 I ordered mine from Newark In One. The NTE P/N is R46-5D3-12
The Newark In One P/N is 21M5187
I guess somebody had to pay for a repair to get a replacement p/n. Good luck!

I had close to same problem with my 8 since I got it 3 months ago. The audio on the driver side sub would cut in and out whenever I closed the door or rolled over a bump on the road. The first thing I was suspecting was the speaker connections, but when I got it all apart that wasn't the case. I took a screwdriver and tapped on the amp and it would cut in and out like it had been doing. I took the circuit board out of the case and noticed that there was no insulation on the soldered side of the board other than the small layer of plastic Bose sealed it with in Mexico. I hooked up the preamp without the case and lo and behold it worked fine, even when I tapped it with a screwdriver. So my conclusion is that the small film that Bose put on wore out over the years and was shorting out the preamp. I insulated it with some weather stripping I had lying around put it all back together and haven't had a problem since. It's only been two days since I did it so I will report back if it is not a permanent fix. Also I have a 2004 just so we are clear that it has been rubbing around in there for a while now.

-Cheers

Thats funny this just started to happen to my 04 I would love to have a DIY on this

I took some pics when I was doing it so ill try to get that together during my layover tomorrow.

I think I have the same problem... the bass comes and goes when i go over a bump i will be checking my bose amp this weekend...

So I got some relays from Digikey that should work (I haven't replaced them yet so I'm not 100% certain yet.)

I freaked out since the new size is different, but per the datasheets, it's the same size as part number R46-5D3-12. Looking at the picture attached, I noticed there's a population option already on the Bose board to accommodate either size relay. Notice the solder filled holes circled in red - I suspect these are wired in parallel to the original relay's pin locations. I'll follow up when I confirm this is a good replacement, but since it already worked for someone using part number R46-5D3-12 then it should be ok.

If you're wanting to DIY, then go to Digikey and get Panasonic part number JS1-12V-F. It's $1.67. I don't mind using NTE parts from time to time, but they're a copycat company that has huge markups. Once again though, I'm not 100% certain yet - but the pinout, specs and size are compatible with R46-5D3-12.

Hmmm interesting. Let us know.

Relays are in I only got 4 at a cost of around $13 shipped priority mail. All through hole mounting points that are soldered over are shorted to their nearest corresponding original mounting point from smaller relay. Pin out matches for both devices. Gonna give it a go very soon.

Holy crap it friggin worked
 

To op. Sorry to hijack but it works!!!

I forgot how descent it sounds - nice and loud & somewhat clear even in radio mode! At first with door open it sounded like crap but I noticed the tweeter wasn't wired in (perhaps the IC detects an open load and delivers less than normal power but I don't know.) I connected the tweeter and closed the door. Listened for a bit... horay!! I'm done. The right channel is working fine too. At least I have some extra relays. Door panel is in if not I wouldn't post :smoker:

I should note that I did not conformal coat or clean the backside of my PCB (it's mine so I don't care.) I'd advise covering it back up, but then again I want to test whether or not it's needed in TX. I need to get back in anyway since my upper door light has been out for a while.

Maybe the tweeter and woofer are wired in parallel to the Bose amp. So when the tweeter is unplugged, the impedance presented to the Bose amp increases. And thereby, delivers less power. Just a hunch.

Good work.

I put together a DIY and added it in the series 1 audio diy section.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-bose-speakers-doors-not-working-%241-67-relay-fix-218790/

Wow, crappy class d bose amps. I cant wait until I get those out of my doors. ;)

Just put my Bose stereo back in yesterday. Jesus the Bose system sucks...

Agreed if you're comparing to a descent aftermarket setup. I've had my 8 for over 6 years and the Bose has filled the gap just enough that I didn't upgrade it. My friggin Evo though, now that stock system SUCKS!!!!! Only reason the Mitsu sounds ok is because it never gets a chance to get loud... I mean it, I can't even overcome the road noise with the volume at max.