AF guage need some help!!!!
 

Hey does any one kow what wire to hook up a AF guage to the o2 sensor on the 8 is blue white black? can any one help?

you're trying to hook up an AF gauge to the car's stock o2 sensor?

yes but on the pcm side of the connector but there is 4 wires a blue white and 2 blacks. I know I need the 5 volt return but I dont have a volt meter to know what wire it is?

I know I need a wide band 02 before any one lets me know that. Im having a knock when I use my nitrous and Ive tryed everything I can think of I just wonder if Im running ritch or lean when I get the knock and this is a free test.

you are running lean..

beers :beer:

Im not sure thats why im trying the guage Ive read its knocks because its lean and ritch

it knocks when it is lean.

beers :beer:

Yes I know it will knock maybe knock is the wrong word I'm not sure if its Detonation; Knock; Ping; Pre-igintion. I just know it doesn't sound right and I would like to know what my mixture looks like when using the nitrous.

all of those describe a lean condition..

beers :beer:

any sugestions on what I can do to help with the lean conditions?

Ive tried 100 octane fuel and charles said maybe coils are bad, but he and I are both stumped.

check out the nitrous thread .

Can't you get different jet sizes for fuel ?

Charles said not to mix and match jettings but I might, He said jets are only like 2 or 3 bucks each I was going to use my higher fuel jet for the 65 shot and use the 55 shot jets for nitrous.

do you know for sure that your fuel side solonoid is working?

beers :beer:

yeah I pulled the lines of the nozzle and sprayed into a bottle for fuel and nitrous, I also checked the side on the module marked fuel indeed had fuel coming out and same for the nitrous side.

I also had problems with intake backfires any Idea what caused that? Seems to have gone away on the 100 octane but at 7 bucks a gallon on a daily driver isnt going to go over well lol

call me.

pm coming..

beers :beer:

I feel a Darwin Award coming...

that avatar is so less than you... barely hot..

beers :beer:

I just like its goofyness.
My avatars are like a good novel with highs and lows.

I love how people think octane is the answer to their car not running well.
The gasoline companies have done their job well.

Thanks for your input mazdamaniac but I didnt try high octane to make it run "better" I tried 100 octane because it is guaranteed not to have any ethnol in it and I live in kansas so ethanol concerned me with my nitrous not working well.

since 10% ethanol blends dont have to be posted and those blends only come in 91 92 93 octane rated gas I went to race fuel to eleminate me suspicsion of ethanol causing my pings knocks etc

Mazdamanic Charles H recomended I ask you if you knew what color the 5volt return signal wire is of the 02 sensor he said you might know if you do this would be helpfull information for me thanks

You mean the rear O2 sensor signal wire?
What are you going to use that for? It won't return any useful information (not for tuning, at least) since its in the catalyst and its a narrow band.

Its not a "5v return wire", but the signal wire is yellow. Its pin 2Q on the PCM.
The red and white/red wires are the heater and the brown wire is power from the PCM.
The output is up to 1 volt - .55v is stoich. Anything that is not .55 is useless information.

I know its not a vary useful instrument for measuring the af ratio but no one cant figure out why it still knocks so I’m trying to find out if its truly a lean condition even if I cant find out just how lean it is or if its a bad zex module or failing coils? I believe there is a front 02 sensor not in the cat that I was planning to hook up to the colors you mention in the last post are on the pcm side of the connector any reason why you aren’t supposed to hook up on the 02 sensor side? Thanks for your help
Chris

IT IS ABSOLUTELY LEAN!!!

What part of that do you not get?

In this circumstance, you will ONLY get knock if it is too lean!

If it is too rich, you will just get a misfire.

The front WBO2S is current-based, not voltage, so you can't tap into that with a regular gauge.

Any suggestions on how to fix my lean problem I tried cleaning the E-shaft sensor and reset the long term fuel trim and placed a 75 shot fuel jet in the fuel side and a 55 nitrous on nitrous side? If it was such a lean problem wouldn’t it knock and N/A mode? Either way I have the guage instaled so Ill leave it till I get some other guages in and a new pod even if its just prety light for now so I want to hook up to the 02 sensor in the cat on the yellow wire?

I intend on getting the dyno tune A/F Nitrous presure and fuel Preasure guage when the guage pod chickenwafer is working on gets finnished.

how to fix lean condition? add more fuel. :uh:

and no it wouldn't knock in N/A mode... if it's lean it's lean because you're using the nitrous and not adding enough fuel

You're lean because you hit the nitrous and you don't have enough fuel to supply the extra horsepower. Add the ZEX in-line fuel pump from morepowerracing.com

I tried adding a 75 hp shot of fuel on the fuel side of the nozzle and a 55 shot of the nitrous side and it still is lean, isn’t our fuel system like 60 to 90 psi that should be plenty of fuel. I think it might be something manically such as fuel pump or clogged filter, coil failure causing knock or a vacuum leak causing a lean condition. Maybe a bad 02 sensor being how they help to regulate A/F ratios suggestions like this would be helpful, if it might be a vacuum leak does any one have a diagram? Or can you suggest some lines to check etc.
Thanks in advance for any help anyone may offer

Chris

P.S. I thought about a zex fuel pump booster but I would like to know I need to spend 170.00 or 240.00 for a 02 sensor before I do it, I Like to do things right but I don’t like to waste my money ya know

Why don't you just install a wideband O2 sensor so you can stop guessing? That would be doing things right and would not be a waste of time. What your doing is like cooking a pizza in the oven without any temperature markings on the adjuster knob, i.e. guessing.

Because a wide band 02 is like $200 or more, and like you said its just going to tell me I’m lean or rich. I still need to know how to fix each problem 'lean or rich' so I’m trying to check all the things that could be wrong before trying to fix things that might not be bad. I just have a hard time believing it’s lean because the pcm programming for the dealer is set to run rich. It might work if I put a 125 shot fuel jet in it but I shouldn’t have to do that, the calculations for the nitrous jets are correct and designed to work together to make the desired shot. So it must be lean for a different reason such as bad 02 sensor or maybe a bad MAF, things like this that I can check because If the system doesn’t work or won’t work properly why spend more money on things to fine tune my nitrous system that won’t work so I’m essentially throwing money away. Does any one know how to check without damaging some of the things I listed above 02 sensor, MAF, coils and vacuum lines? Thanks foe the help

Chris

P.S. If my programming is lean from Mazda’s latest re flash why does this nitrous set up work for so many others when I installed it the same with the same flash?

Which is what you need to know before you fix the problem. WBO2 systems don't just tell you "lean" or "rich." They tell you what your air:fuel ratio is pretty damn accurately.

Which is retarded because you could end up spending more money on wasted "fixes" than on the WBO2 system itself. If you want to proceed with the "guess and check" method than by all means. But why come here asking people what they think your next guess should be? Blind leading the blind here?

Ok so it could be lean or not, mmmhmm. We still don't know.

Which is essentially what you'll be doing if you blow your motor and have to replace it for $2000 minimum + labor.

Ways to check the things you listed:
1) O2 sensor - try a new one or someone elses
2) MAF - try a new one or someone elses
3) Coils - how would bad coils cause a lean condition?
4) Vacuum lines - look for holes

I want to know other things that can cause a knock, like I said I have a hard time thinking it is lean. After I check things that can cause knock like failing coils etc and eliminate them and fix one or more if needed then Ill buy a wideband o2 sensor, because factory a/f's are say 13' 14’ nitrous is like 5 to 1 or something like that so if I don’t know what proper a/f's should be with nitrous it is a waste of time. Like I said a factory 02 sensor is 240 bucks not want to spend it for nothing. As I stated in post number five on the first page I know I need a wide band to see air fuel ratios but my concern right know is if the knock is maniacal, so I can take advantage of my warranty on parts not effected by nitrous i.e. coils etc before I out of pocket my own money. If it still has a knock then I will work on the fuel system with a zex pump. Unless you know what the proper A/F's on the rx-8 is wile using nitrous "because I don’t and I haven’t see a post that does yet" telling me that a wideband should be my first step is kind of foolish I think. And I know check for hole in the vacuum lines but I thought maybe something was hooked up wrong from the dealer, haven forbid but it is a possibility none the less and should be checked that’s why I asked for a diagram if there is one. With the MAF and the factory 02 sensor I was wondering if I could check the out put voltage or something like that to make sure they are working properly if so does anyone know how exactly. Also does the RX-8 have a factory knock sensor? If yes does it automatically pull timing or just show a light?

Chris

God damn, you are f*cking hard-headed. I almost admire that, except its really ignorant.

Only two things cause ping - overly advanced ignition timing (of which you have no control) and a LEAN MIXTURE.
That is it.
Stop screwing around.
More importantly, stop asking for advice and then IGNORING IT.

There is only one thing I hate more than someone that is lazy and that is someone that asks for direction and then argues with the advice.

LOL well I guess I chose to take that as a complement. But like the post states I was looking for advice on hooking up a narrowband to witch you mazdamanic were vary helpful. And other thane swoope and I talking about resetting the long term fuel trim and trying a 75 shot on the fuel side there wasn’t really an answer or guidance to follow. "get a wideband" as everyone states and I posted "I know I need one before anyone post this" first page like 5th post that really isn’t advice or a answer to my questions witch I made clear enough I thought. Example how to test factory 02, coils and other mechanical things that could contribute to a poor running system. I’m also sending my nitrous module back to zex to see if maybe the fuel solenoids aren’t opening all the way, I just want to know everything is solid mechanically before any thing else, because until access port comes out for the 8 I have no control of the ignition. And all I can do for fuel is a booster pump so if I’m running lean my hands are tied till then, that’s why a wideband isn’t a priority for me right now. Because with access port I can also control fuel meaning I might not need a fuel booster saving me a 250 dollar guess. So I have proven I’m not lazy because I have done my homework and I’m willing to double check things and as far as not taking advice I have taken the advice that makes sense.

Chris

hey,

as i said.

you have a fuel side problem.. you might have that one in a thousand bad kit..

beers :beer: