is 4080's sub box value?
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Just got my 4080's sub box, (got it from a fellow member, not 4080)
And I am very happy and impressed with the quality and workmanship that went in to the "thing" First rate materials and best of all PERFECT fit. At this point the box is in and will be pulling power and installing the amp this weekend. The amp is an Alpine MRD-M301 with optional remote control. I know, the box does not come cheap, but you surly get what you pay for! And I highly recommend this box. P.s. I do not get a kick back, love great workmanship! |
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More Pictures... Part I
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More Pictures... Part II
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More Pictures... Part III
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wow that look ssweet...how much did it cost you if you don't mind me asking.....well that and if you are allowed to post things like that:p
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I do not want to create a price "war" on the box that 4080 made....
If you are interested you can find him on him board here. Never was in contact with him anyway. But seriously, a perfect fit, nice looks, easy install, no unknown installers Playing with your car is worth something right? + When you sell your ride you can take it out and resell it to a fellow member here.... |
Just to let everyone know. I sold my extra box to Modena. I got an extra one for the mild damage they did to my car making the molds. He got a small discount vs the going rate (I think) but not much. I didn't want to profit off the situation nor did I want to undercut anyone else. I also didn't want to hold on to it considering how many people obviously wanted one.
Modena, I am glad you like it. I really think it is a near perfect enclosure. Just one is plenty-o'-bass for me and I'm sure you will feel the same way. To my knowledge the installer that builds these boxes is super busy building show cars and that is why there hasn't been a power buy yet. There simply aren't a whole lot of them around. Doing the fiberglass even with molds can't be done by just anyone. This is all too bad because it is an awesome box and I think anyone who wants a reasonable well-integrated bass upgrade should get one. That time will come I guess. -Mr. Wigggles Ps. I'm glad you showed the "patent-pending" :) mounting method (shown in "Part III"). It is so simple yet works so well. |
Had I already not gotten my sub before this one came out, I'm sure I'd buy this in a heartbeat.
Not too crazy about the rotor ornament, but I'm sure the box would be available withut that, using a plain grille. Other than that, it looks perfect. |
You are right about the grill,
Might paint it in flat black so it blends more in. Just finished my power wire from the battery to the drivers kick panel, Had to stop because it's 15F in my garage! Going in the hot tub now.... warm up.... Do it again tomorrow.... |
Oh please GOD, let me be able to get one of these! Come one guys dont tease us with the perfect fit sub box!
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Got it all installed yesterday, and all works from the first try.
Any one here knows how to set the proper settings on the amp? X-over points ext? The amp is an Alpine MRD-M301 The amp has plenty of power but I am lost with all the settings.... Thanks for your help. |
Man, that is frickin SLICK. I'm impressed.
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Originally Posted by modena
Got it all installed yesterday, and all works from the first try.
Any one here knows how to set the proper settings on the amp? X-over points ext? The amp is an Alpine MRD-M301 The amp has plenty of power but I am lost with all the settings.... Thanks for your help. First set the gain half way. Make sure the x-over is set on LPF or low pass. This switch should be located on the side of the amp. There should also be a plastic knob for the variable x-over. Try setting this to 80 hz. Gradually turn this up and down slightly until the bass blends in smooth with the door speakers (you should end up between 70-100 hz) Male voices should not be boomy. The bass should be low and smooth. Then adjust the gain until so that the bass does not over power the midrange/tweeters. NOTICE*** I am only giving you some basics of amp tuning*** Hope this helps, 4080 |
Thanks 4080, but the amp has no knobs on the side, it's all with menus ext.
X-over and various other settings seem to work but not the gain.... (Something from Japanese to English must have gotten lost in the translation) P.s. you make wonderful boxes! Link to manual from Crutchfield. http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Man...500MRDM501.PDF |
I lost my reply so let's try this again.
Here's my best stab at it. Input mode switch: 1 - 8V Input mode: Ch1+Ch2 Input level: ???? (you are going to have to play around with this. Start low and go up) Gain factor: ???? (I don't know why they have another setting for this. I would probably leave it 0dB but it is not completely clear how it interacts with "Input Level") LPF: On at 70-80Hz with slope 12dB Subsonic: On at 15Hz Parametric EQ: On at 34 Hz with Q = 2 and gain + 6dB Bass Compensation: Off Time Correction: Off Phase: 0 AMPID: 1 or whatever Turn-on Delay: 1.0 sec Now if you have the base radio, I would set the radio to the following: Fade: F1-2 Balance: 0 Treble: +2 above your normal preference mid: +1 above your normal preference Bass: -1 lower than your normal preference At that point the only setting you should need to do is the Input Level on the amp. That might take some trial and error but once you get it right the entire system should integrate pretty well. For Bose system I would do about the same but I would make Bass: -3 lower than you normal setting Remember you are subtracting bass out of your normal speakers and adding it back in with your sub. -Mr. Wigggles |
Thank you!
Will play with it tonight.... |
Oh,
One more thing. If you do have the Bose, turn your audio pilot OFF. That can give screwy results. -Mr. Wigggles |
Regarding Audio Pilot: even the base stereo has some sort of an auto volume control that can be selected with the ALC function (from Auto Level Control I suppose).
It appears to be driven off the engine RPM or maybe the car's speed instead of using a microphone, I'm not sure. I don't use mine though - I didn't like the effect so mine stays off. |
Tamas,
The difference is that Audio Pilot is a positive feedback system. If you add bass into your system, audio pilot might think that bass is from external enviroments and not from the music, so it adds more bass, which the sub amplifies. This creates more bass, which audio pilot can think is even more road noise, etc. A positive feedback loop. ALC is different. I think it uses vehicle speed in its calculation not RPM but I don't know. However, ALC doesn't listen to the music to make decissions, its only input is speed (or RPM) so there is no possibility of possitive feedback. -Mr. Wigggles |
Well, followed the advice of -Mr. Wigggles and all is cool.
I listed mostly to dance music, (BPM channel 81 on XM) And it has a solid feel now, I also installed the remote control above the Cigarette lighter in the center console and can control it perfectly. Let me thank all members here for their advice and know-how in making this project A reality! (If any one of you is in the area, St Louis MO) look me up and we will have a beer! |
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Originally Posted by MrWigggles
I'm glad you showed the "patent-pending" :) mounting method (shown in "Part III"). It is so simple yet works so well.
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It's a piece of aluminum that is screwed on the back of the box.
The part showed "disappears" behind the rubber trim seal of the trunk. Keeps the box in its place. What speaker & amp combo are you looking at? |
So it's a thin bendable aluminum piece to wedge the box in. Good idea.
I will be using a JL 10" w6v2 and a JL 500/1 amp. I currently have 2 10" w6v2's in a box but it's too much bass. Pics here. Plus it's a pain to untie it and remove it for track days. I'll probably put the box up for sale on this site after I'm done. It's a perfect fit. |
It's neither thin nor bendable....
You will see when you get it! 1 X 10 inches with the stock Bose is more then plenty. Of course tastes differ. |
I want one! What is a "PSG Side box"? Is this a similar box made by someone else?
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