Installed the kit in Canzoomer's car.

The connection you can't see is on the lower intake manifold (aluminum part) - bolt with ground cable to body.

 

well, what has the kit changed? Did you feel a difference after you changed the wires?

 

What has changed is not easy to tell on the power side.
I am still breaking in my new engine (850km on it as of today) so full tilt WOT runs are still out of the question.

What I CAN tell is this:
Tonight I started the car, ran a minute or two to warm up.
Turned on the headlights. rpm did not change.
Previously it would dip down 500rpm , then recover partially.

So there definitely IS a difference.

Also, someone looked at the install docs and said they could not tell where to connect.
If you look under the hood it readily becomes apparent.
Each of the connection points are ALREADY GROUND POINTS for the existing wiring.
So, on each side, at the back of the engine bay , at the back of the ECU on the left, and on the intake manifold, on the aluminum body, you see bolts with relatively big ground wires attached.
These are the connection points.
The last one is the battery ground , of course.

 

Auxiliary grounds are actually pretty necessary on the 3rd gen RX7, at least. They're useful to make sure the engine management computer is sending and receiving the cleanest signal possible with no spurious electrical "information". The '7 is known for a stumble under moderate throttle called by most owners "the 3000rpm hesitation" and its most effective cure is to improve the grounding of the drivetrain to the body. Two spots are common, but I think I did either four or five on my '94 and it banished the problem forever.

 

Hmmm, I just did a home kit, just for the passenger side of stuff (need more quality crimp connectors).

I haven't started it or driven her yet, but I did break out the ohm meter after the install.

From the battery post (-) to the driver's side fender wall (you'll see a stock ground wire), there is about 1.1 ohms of resistance measured with my fluke.

I did the same to the passenger side, after I used some 8 gauge wire, and that one is reading about .5 ohms.

No, it's not a direct comparison, I'm too lazy tonight to undo what I did. BUT 1.1 OHMS from battery to ground point???????

 

That's not good. I am making my own home kit, using #4 wire, and am hopeful to have it done and installed by the weekend. I'll break out my Fluke tonight, and check that out myself; I'll make notes to compare before and after on the resistance readings, and will report back.
-Doc

 

Good luck measuring these low resistance values. I did this for a living until April. Only reliable way is to use a constant current source (regulated power supply with adjustable current limit for example) and drive say 10 Amps through the circuit and measure the voltage drop.

The problem is you will get a variation of several ohms just in your meter leads and connections. If you drive the current through, the small resistances have no effect on your voltage measurements, because the input impedance of a voltmeter is at least 15 k ohm. Measure the voltage -after- the power supply connection point, so its' resistance isn't figured into the reading.

 

Most flukes actually send voltage though the circuit. Granted it's just a ground, it will still pick up the proper resistance. Check the fluke site or documentation with your fluke for accuracy.

Sure cheap ones or knock offs are junk, but the expensive ones work absolutely great!

Let's get back to "november specials" in here

 

OK, on to "Special"

First off I am closing this thread soon as, (surprisingly enough) it is now December.

Secondly, I will now start a December Specials thread.

Lastly, we go to full production shipping of our Stage1 kit on Friday!

We will be contacting those who have expressed an interest starting on Wednesday.