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Thanks.
why have the fault codes appeared - faults or feature of conversion? why has the Adaptronic not blocked them? what do i do about them? .
410 is because the air pump will have been removed .
2097 will be because the rear 02 sensor has been removed or the cat removed.
The Adaptronic hasn't blocked them because it can't . You need to get the codes deleted off the ecu . A guy named Jason Goode on the Purely site does it via a mail service in the US . Otherwise you need to buy Cobb or Mazdaedit.
The info on the 2 codes is great, albeit I'm now left with finding out why the ECU is throwing up these codes but not others I expect to see and why I didn't notice the EML when I first looked at her. Research, research, research.
So, I'e gotten the Adaptronic up and running but Im noticing some issues.
1) idle refuses to idle at 14.7 AFR. it will idle fine at 13.5, but any more and it sputters and dies. Methinks the timing is too advanced. Will double check.
2) Very light throttle is..... well, kinda gone. I've set the closed throttle at 1% and when going slow and light throttle, it cuts power abruptly and is very jerky. Same with cruise control, when going down a hill it cuts power then slams it back on to back up to speed.
3) wheels speed senors: I know I asked about this before but, is it possible to splice into the stock ones? If they're wired into the CANBUS that presents an issue but I know you guys were talking about how they were good sensors.
I love this ECU but the basic drivability is killing me right now. I did eventually get the AEM AFR gauge working with the adaptronic! Was using the wrong settings in wari. Whoops.
So, I'e gotten the Adaptronic up and running but Im noticing some issues.
1) idle refuses to idle at 14.7 AFR. it will idle fine at 13.5, but any more and it sputters and dies. Methinks the timing is too advanced. Will double check.
2) Very light throttle is..... well, kinda gone. I've set the closed throttle at 1% and when going slow and light throttle, it cuts power abruptly and is very jerky. Same with cruise control, when going down a hill it cuts power then slams it back on to back up to speed.
3) wheels speed senors: I know I asked about this before but, is it possible to splice into the stock ones? If they're wired into the CANBUS that presents an issue but I know you guys were talking about how they were good sensors.
I love this ECU but the basic drivability is killing me right now. I did eventually get the AEM AFR gauge working with the adaptronic! Was using the wrong settings in wari. Whoops.
This is what pisses me off about people that buy products and say everything is great when in fact there are issue like the ones you are having. I hope there actually is a remedy for what you are experiencing .
The idle thing will be due to the fact that you cant do negative split timing like the stock ecu does.Not really a biggie to live with richer idle though.
Still mc'lovin' my flash tuned stock ECU! J/K but no, really
Srlsy tho, I got nothin' against the Adaptronic. I just got no reason to stop flash tuning at the moment. Just like I got no reason to use aftermarket ignition coils. If it ain't broke don't fix it
You know its funny you mention this post. I actually tried 2% closed throttle at first and that was terrabad. I have a hypothesis that 2% may work if I lower the closed ADC. On my car at least, when the throttle body is closed, the ADC reading is around 488. I can artificially lower it and see what happens.
Other fun facts: The adaptronic cant read closed throttle % that aren't integers. I played around with it yesterday and used .75% as closed throttle. Smooth as butter but the adaptronic didnt know what to do with a double so it defaulted to zero and the throttle never closed lol. So it always burned a bit of fuel and it wouldnt engine break. So off throttle deceleration was abysmally slow.
So after a bit of putting around and playing with stuff, I found that 2% destroys low speed drivability. So much to the point that at in first gear I feel like something in the driveline is going to break. On a race car this would be acceptable. But, since its my daily, I'm going to need to find a work around.
I also discovered that all of the CEL's I masked with the AP prior to dropping in the Adaptronic have been unmasked. So I'm unsure as to whether I need to reflash the ECU or if the Adaptronic just poos all over whatever power the AP had. I'm a tad worried if I reflash the ECU with the AP, I'll brick something.
I will say, I love the map sensor. It honestly makes tuning boost a joke. But, I will say, if I can't find solutions to the drivability problems, I may just stick with the cobb forever haha.
So after a bit of putting around and playing with stuff, I found that 2% destroys low speed drivability. So much to the point that at in first gear I feel like something in the driveline is going to break. On a race car this would be acceptable. But, since its my daily, I'm going to need to find a work around.
I also discovered that all of the CEL's I masked with the AP prior to dropping in the Adaptronic have been unmasked. So I'm unsure as to whether I need to reflash the ECU or if the Adaptronic just poos all over whatever power the AP had. I'm a tad worried if I reflash the ECU with the AP, I'll brick something.
I will say, I love the map sensor. It honestly makes tuning boost a joke. But, I will say, if I can't find solutions to the drivability problems, I may just stick with the cobb forever haha.
I know there are a couple of people who say they don't have any driveability issues , I'll see if i can get them to chime in here .
What makes you think they have been unmasked ? The cels are still reported even if masked . There may just be another cel that you didn't mask that turned the cel light on .
I know there are a couple of people who say they don't have any driveability issues , I'll see if i can get them to chime in here .
What makes you think they have been unmasked ? The cels are still reported even if masked . There may just be another cel that you didn't mask that turned the cel light on .
In terms of the masked CEL's, it appears the reign of the new year has rendered me silly with the iD10t virus. I forgot how ATR worked for a minute and thought I had masked these CEL's when I hadn't. I think I've fixed the CEL issue but "the stupid" remains lol.
Yeah, anyone thats mastered the drivability of this thing, please chime in. I'm making small steps but there's still a lot to be had. One thing I did notice, is when you zero the throttle at idle (as opposed to the ign switch on, but the car off, like the instructions said), 2% closed throttle works a lot better. Not perfect, but way better than what was going on earlier. Then I still run into the issue of the throttle not closing at higher RPM's (4000 and above). Its like you win some you lose some with this thing.
I'm planning on fitting a 2012 Nexus 7 tablet to display gauge and other data via ShellDude's Adaptronic Adaptive Tuner app as I already have a sat nav system and a Nexus tablet. I'm using the info on a thread on the UK Club site, here. However, I could only find a little info on integrating my 2012 RX8 Select 1 on Shell's website and nothing in extensive searches here or on the Adaptronic website; I therefore thought I'd put down my thoughts and experiences here.
Alas, this is proving to be quite a challenge for a technophobe like me (I grew up in the early 70s without electronics so my brain is hard-wired with none of the skills for software and anything electronic).
Shell's website says
Requires a RS232 (DB9) to Bluetooth adapter connected to the Adaptronic's second serial port already paired with your phone/tablet via Android Settings or an OTG compliant Android 3.1+ device with a known functional OTG USB cable connected to an Adaptronic ECU.
My 2012 RX8 Select 1 ECU has only a mini USB port. After a few hours research and fighting rising techno-panic, I came up with the following:
1. This Nexus tablet will take USB OTG, which means that I can get data directly from the Select 1. However, the OTG connector will take up the Nexus's USB port and prevent me from using that to charge the tablet ie I can only charge the tablet if I remove the OTG connector. I've read that
While you can purchase various kind of “OTG” Y-cables, which purportedly will allow you to use an external device (or even connect to a USB hub so you can use multiple devices) while at the same time allowing a charger/power supply to be connected, this doesn’t work with a stock Nexus 7. This is a kernel limitation and you can override that by rooting and flashing a custom kernel
The odds of me ending up with an expensive paperweight by trying to add a kernel or root the tablet (whatever they are) are too great. If I'm stuck then my son-in-law has a mate that can probably do the rooting for me in return for a reasonable amount of drinking vouchers, which is good otherwise a rising tide of technophobia panic would be up to my neck by now rather than lapping at my feet as it is.
2. I might be able to connect an RS232 Bluetooth dongle using a mini USB to RS232 adaptor like the one here. However, I've just looked for RS232 Bluetooth devices and I can't find anything like the dongle that I expect to see on Amazon under $100; maybe my not really knowing what I'm looking for handicaps me.
3. After initially discounting USB Bluetooth dongles because I can't see a way of getting their drivers into the Select 1, I thought I'd look again. Alas, my brain reached complete overload so I'm leaving this to another time.
Last edited by Ian_D; 01-08-2017 at 05:34 AM.
Reason: Changed 2013 to 2012
Hey Ian! Have you tired looking into running something from the adaptronic's serial out?
I was thinking something like the 2.5mm serial out to OBD plug. That way you can hook up a bluetooth to that port and keep the USB on the tablet open. You may have to jump a few adapters (2.5mm to DB9 to OBD) or you may splice up your own (not too hard)
^basic examples of what you'd be looking for. If you went with the adapter route, you'd need an additional female to female adapter as both the DB9 ports on those pics are female DB9's. You could try poking around for a male variant of either but I'm not sure you'd have a ton of luck.
alternatively you could do a micro USB to OBD2 as seen below and then slap a bluetooth dongle on it. But, Im not sure if that route will work. I don't know what data gets sent through the micro USB port, if it will even make it through the blue tooth, and then if the Nexus could make heads or tails of it though the app.
Thank you. You've led me to breakthrough moment: I was given bad information on what a serial port looks like, and my Select 1 has one, not 2 like the 440s, that connects with a 2.5mm male.
I did another hour or so of research and found out that the ECU serial port uses SPP so assume that all I need is a Bluetooth dongle that supports a protocol called SPP. However, I got no further forward on finding a suitable Bluetooth dongle then found myself with another snag to overcome: my Nexus 7 has Android 4.3 and I found the following on a website:
I bought my nexus 7 to be able to connect to a bluetooth datalogger over SPP serial port profile. It is impossible to establish a connection between the nexus 7 and the dataloggers bluetooth module since it cannot be detected.
I tried using another android device with android version 4.1 and it works great. I tried using my windows laptop and it works great
My nexus 7 is using android 4.2.2
I tried it with a OBDII car diagnostics adapter and still nothing. Using another android phone with a lower version of android established a connection without any problem.
The pairing between my nexus 7 and my xperia mini smartphone works and file transfer can be made without any problems so I know that bluetooth on the nexus 7 for some protocols works.
From what I understand, the SPP protocol is completely broke.
I talked to some people that have a Nexus 7 (wifi only version) and they had to downgrade to 4.1.2 to get the Nexus 7 to connect with SPP profile. While they were using android 4.2xx they could not also connect.
The problem is that I cannot downgrade to android 4.1.2 because I have the Nexus 7 3G unit.
I don't think that this will ever get fixed since a lot o people will not nag you to fix the SPP profile (no so many users of this profile).
I bought this tablet to use it as a professional development tool but from the looks of it I'm stuck with an expensive paper weight due to googles very unprofessional approach to these matters.
My head hurts, not helped by my now having a stinking cold.
I believe it is, although 3G brings to mind more a tight turn in an aircraft than a tablet spec.
Oops. Got that wrong. It turns out that I have the 2012 model; the website that told me the product code was for the 2013 model is wrong.
Possible RS232 Bluetooth adapters vary from the circuit board variety at around $15 like this one to a proper dongle at around $150 like this one. With cables, the first should cost me around $40 if I want to have a punt that it'll work. With the second, I may be better off getting a tablet that will support charging whilst connected to the ECU on USB OTG.
Last edited by Ian_D; 01-08-2017 at 05:32 AM.
Reason: Images added
So I plan on piecing together a turbo build and wanted to know would the adaptronic be used as a base tune so I can daily drive it? I'm new to the tuning side of the 8s. Want to learn more.
The Adaptronic is well-suited to turbo applications. I have one in my Greddy turbo [Renesis] RX8, fitted and tuned by a trader in the hands of the previous owner. I will be moving it to a 13B REW conversion when the Renesis goes bang.
In essence, the Adaptronic controls all the relevant functions for a turbo-engine car just as it does for an NA car. There are 3 options for controlling the boost: just leave the turbo's wastegate actuator to control boost the old-fashioned way, with or without a manual boost controller; open loop control where the Adaptronic uses a table of duty cycle vs RPM to feed demand to the actuator's control; and closed loop control where the Adaptronic controls the MAP (effectively boost to the engine; boost at the turbo will be higher) through a 3-port boost control valve feeding the actuator.
There is a fair amount of discussion on the Adaptronic website forums. I attach the Adaptronic generic and specific guides for their RX8 unit. These, and the forums, should have all the information needed; that said, having and reading the info is only a starter for 10 - understanding and applying that info isn't easy for a novice (eg me), so be prepared for a lot of effort or paying a shop/trader to install it for you.
The Adaptronic is well-suited to turbo applications. I have one in my Greddy turbo [Renesis] RX8, fitted and tuned by a trader in the hands of the previous owner. I will be moving it to a 13B REW conversion when the Renesis goes bang.
In essence, the Adaptronic controls all the relevant functions for a turbo-engine car just as it does for an NA car. There are 3 options for controlling the boost: just leave the turbo's wastegate actuator to control boost the old-fashioned way, with or without a manual boost controller; open loop control where the Adaptronic uses a table of duty cycle vs RPM to feed demand to the actuator's control; and closed loop control where the Adaptronic controls the MAP (effectively boost to the engine; boost at the turbo will be higher) through a 3-port boost control valve feeding the actuator.
There is a fair amount of discussion on the Adaptronic website forums. I attach the Adaptronic generic and specific guides for their RX8 unit. These, and the forums, should have all the information needed; that said, having and reading the info is only a starter for 10 - understanding and applying that info isn't easy for a novice (eg me), so be prepared for a lot of effort or paying a shop/trader to install it for you.
Thanks man for the pdf files. Now I can study it more. And yes I plan on boosted the renesis until it goes bang then doing the 13b rew swap. You have any resources on where I can get 13b rew housings, covers and rotary assemblies that arent from ebay cause that seems to be the only place I can find them. I want to piece the block together instead of buying it whole. Thabks again!
I suggest you join RX7club and have a good look there. Also have a look at the rotary swaps forum here, then as necessary start a project thread to keep this one free for Adaptronic stuff.
For those who are using the Adaptronic to control boost through a boost control valve, are you happy with it?
How good/effective is it, say compared to a Turbosmart eBoost Street?
I'll be looking at specs over the next week to decide which is the best option for me (I have an eboost already and an Adaptronic Greddy turbo that I'm overhauling, the previous owner leaving the wastegate actuator to look after itself as stock) and any advice or feedback will be a big help, even if only for my confidence.
Useless response from me, but I will be testing my adaptronic with the MAC valve soon. It's recommended to plumb the EWG I'm running with the the duel port configuration. I will be setting it up with the single port actuation because of the lowish psi I plan to run.
I have been reading this thread to see if it mentions getting Adaptronics to read the speed sensor on the RX8 so I can setup boost by gear and launch control. I already have the mac solenoid wired to the turbo for boost control. I see that the MVSS and SVSS are wired into the traction control module where I can pull a signal from, but it doesnt look like it goes through the adaptronics. Anyone know the best way to bridge the signal from the traction control module into the adaptronics?
Hi, I'm searching a complete basemap for a stock NA S1 RX-8, a sort of copy of a stock ecu map on an Adaptronic. I found one on the Adaptronic forum, but a lot of settings are missing. Thank you to all of you for the help.
12-22-2016, 01:23 PM
but no, really 
