That does look different than any other plug I have seen on this board. Let us know if you have any issues with them.

 

Those are what FD plugs have looked like for the past couple of years.

Laters!
Edgardo

 

So Low Fly'n have you had any issues yet? have you noticed any improvement?

 

Whooo!

I was about to take my car to the dealer for the 35k service - decided to call first and ask the price..... $799.95

I said "WHAT? - you've got to be kidding!"

He proceeded to list what would be done. The plugs alone (installed) were $300. SO flushing the coolant, changing brake fluid, air filter, checking a whole bunch of "no real work" things was costing the rest ($499).

So I am doing the plugs (and most of the rest) myself like I did with myold RX-7. But I am a little confused about the spark plugs that you guys are recommending:

Are you guys recommending the $20 one from sparkplugs.com?

Also - the coolant looks good and has never leaked - should be good for a little longer -correct?

And the brake fluid - I normally replace at 4 years old.

Any commnets?

 

Check the manual, I believe all you have to do is check the coolant at 30k, not actually change it, but I don't see what it would hurt to change it. That would probably would cost you $10 or so and an hour of your time.

The plugs you want are the NKG ones on www.sparkplugs.com, and yes they were $20 a piece on that site, you will need to leading and 2 trailing plugs. That will probably take you an hour to do as well.

I would think as long as the break fluid still looks kinda light gold you are good.

 

I replaced my plugs about two weeks ago using the illustrations posted by Tony. I also purchased the $20 Iradium plugs at sparkplugs.com. I found as did "Low Fly'n" shown in his/her image that one set of plugs were different looking also. My "8" has 41000 miles and is just 14 months old. After changing the plugs I have driven about 800 miles and the car runs great. I have had no problems starting her up, she idles at a constant rpm and performs like new. The replacement procedure took me about 45 minutes. I personally think jacking her up, removing the drivers side wheel is the way to go. All four plugs are easily accessible from there. I also installed a new K&N air filter, again no problems.

 

Excellent - thanks for the advice guys!

Feliz Navidad!

 

The car is starting / running perfect just like it always has. I have only used 93 octane Ammoco Gold from day one and have never flooded. The plugs I removed @ 30,000 miles looked good to go and could have easily gone a couple thousand more miles.

 

I think the latest flashes are keeping the plugs cleaner and burning better than the first flashes.

 

Just changed the plugs using Tony's illustrations. Thankfully, I read the "remove driver's side wheel first" part and that made all the difference. I bought the NGK plugs from sparkplugs.com and had a great purchasing experience.

Great Job Tony!

 

Just FYI, we're having a Group Buy in our forum on the OEM NGK plugs for $86 shipped. I'm realizing that this isn't a great savings over sparkplugs.com, but it should at least match them when shipping is included or beat them by a couple dollars.

And good work on the DIY, Tony!

 

Do you think replacing the sparks with new ones or cleaning them could make the 8 idle smoother?

When warm, at idle it sounds like an old 4 bannger and the car shakes quite a bit! Much so that at night when I am standing behind another car at the lights I can see my headlights shaking up and down on the front car's bumper.

Once you get the revs up its smooth as a baby's bottom.

 

You will only know if you remove the plugs and check them for fouling. If the center insulators look grey or black, replace them, or if you have the capability, clean them. If the center insulator is a white or brownish color, you're good to go. The center insulator is the key and any crud elsewhere is generally just a cosmetic problem, although it doesn't hurt to clean that up while you're at it.

Edit: the red area of the center insulator is what you want to see a whitish or brownish color.

 

has anyone tried a hotter plug?

 

One thing that has been missing from this thread -

Does anybody know the torque spec for tightening the plugs?

 

easiest way to change all four is through the drivers wheelwell, undo the rubber shield and you have clear access to all four

 

Yup, that's exactly what I did.

Thanks for the torque spec.

Still missing that 7500 rpm kick, though...

 

do you guys know what the spark plug gap is for rx8s????
i am afraid of taking my spark plugs out because i don't know the gaps??

 

Standard [both]: 1.15mm-1.25mm (0.046-0.049in)
Maximum: Leading 1.5mm (0.059in) Trailing 1.4mm (0.055in)

 

Thanks for the great guide. This site and it's posters have been an invaluable resource to me. I just ordered in the plugs from Sparkplugs.com and wanted to mention there is a code using the word nicoclub at checkout.




Discount (nicoclub - 10% off NGK or Denso order over $25 ):

 

What's wrong with using oil on the plugs threads?

I've always done that.

 

The problem is that oil gets thick and sticky over time, especially when exposed to high temps. And if the sticky oil causes the spark plug threads to adhere to the housing threads, you may remove a plug and leave the threads in the housing. In other words, the spark plug threads may strip off and you get a plug that is nice and smooth where the threads used to be and the threads remain in the housing. I've seen it happen in a boinger and man that is a REAL pia to repair.

Get some anti-seize compound at your local parts store. It's cheap insurance.

 

You need 3 long extensions.

One of the extensions need to be a wobble. Similar to swivel, but it's a wobble.

 

Like this, you can find a cheap set at http://www.harborfreight.com/.

 

How many miles on the old ones? What did they look like>