DIY: RX-8 Oil Change for dummies
#402
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Yes.
Discussion about oil types and weights is not appropriate for this thread. I have moved those posts to here: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...thread-248952/
Discussion about oil types and weights is not appropriate for this thread. I have moved those posts to here: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...thread-248952/
#404
I did a couple of my own oil changes. Once you get the original oil filter off, Purolater Pure One is both a great filter and is covered in a sand paper like surface which makes removal a snap. They aren't too terribly expensive either which is always a plus.
#405
Un-Registered User
#406
FYI - For those looking for a new crush washer, just pull one off of a 14mm spark plug. Same diameter as our oil pan drain plugs. Spark plug crush washers can be re-torqued several times, 1/8th of a turn from seated for NGK.
#408
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Good diy and a straightforward procedure. Nothing new to add but to emphasise a few points.
Get a cap wrench - my filter was so hard to remove I invested in a strap type which was a waste of money because there is not enough room to engage and pivot it. Unfortunately I was desperate as the f type cap wrench was not available locally. Eventually ( after a couple of hors and skin off my arms and hands )got it off with a long screwdriver (angled in at the top ) and hammer to ease the filters initial twisting. Thereafter hand removal.
The drain plug was tightened by a gorilla and was hard to remove also, eventually got it off just at the point I thought I was going to round it.
Get a cap wrench - my filter was so hard to remove I invested in a strap type which was a waste of money because there is not enough room to engage and pivot it. Unfortunately I was desperate as the f type cap wrench was not available locally. Eventually ( after a couple of hors and skin off my arms and hands )got it off with a long screwdriver (angled in at the top ) and hammer to ease the filters initial twisting. Thereafter hand removal.
The drain plug was tightened by a gorilla and was hard to remove also, eventually got it off just at the point I thought I was going to round it.
#411
Good diy and a straightforward procedure. Nothing new to add but to emphasise a few points.
Get a cap wrench - my filter was so hard to remove I invested in a strap type which was a waste of money because there is not enough room to engage and pivot it. Unfortunately I was desperate as the f type cap wrench was not available locally. Eventually ( after a couple of hors and skin off my arms and hands )got it off with a long screwdriver (angled in at the top ) and hammer to ease the filters initial twisting. Thereafter hand removal.
The drain plug was tightened by a gorilla and was hard to remove also, eventually got it off just at the point I thought I was going to round it.
Get a cap wrench - my filter was so hard to remove I invested in a strap type which was a waste of money because there is not enough room to engage and pivot it. Unfortunately I was desperate as the f type cap wrench was not available locally. Eventually ( after a couple of hors and skin off my arms and hands )got it off with a long screwdriver (angled in at the top ) and hammer to ease the filters initial twisting. Thereafter hand removal.
The drain plug was tightened by a gorilla and was hard to remove also, eventually got it off just at the point I thought I was going to round it.
Use it only to loosen your drain plug. Not tighten. That M12 impact is the best tool I've ever owned, use it for everything. Along with their M12 impact socket. Very powerful and exceptionally well made. Bosch's lead engineer went to Milwaukee a couple years ago and it shows.
As for the oil filter, the last guy obviously screwed it on way too tight. Lucky it didn't leak. You should pick up a universal (large size) plumbers basin wrench for stuff like that. Cheap and you'll use it more than you can imagine if you wrench a lot.
#414
I've been using the M12 impact for 2 years or so, undone literally thousands of bolts both large and small, and not once have I damaged anything.
#416
How i poured the new oil without spilling...
Cut an empty oil bottle in half,
Sprayed the cap tread on the bottle,
Waited until it dried then made a "gasket" around the bottle top with layers of electric tape.
Placed my little invention over the hole and kept pressure around the metal hose to keep it sealedwith my fingers. Good luck, comrades!
Cut an empty oil bottle in half,
Sprayed the cap tread on the bottle,
Waited until it dried then made a "gasket" around the bottle top with layers of electric tape.
Placed my little invention over the hole and kept pressure around the metal hose to keep it sealedwith my fingers. Good luck, comrades!
#417
I wanted to be the first one to post in 2015!! Yeah this thread is 11 years old!!
This is not a whining comment about bolts too tight, or filter stuck, or which oil to use... Just some food for thought when changing the oil.
Couple of non technical thoughts...
1) when you buy oil and let it sit in your garage waiting for the next time to do the oil change, It gets dust and dirt particles on it. When you unscrew the cap and dump it in the funnel where does that dirt go?? Yeah in the engine. Wipe your bottles off.
2) when your done with your funnel what do you do with it? Wipe it out and put it back on the shelf where it accumulates more dirt till next oil change in 6 months to a year? Put it in a plastic 1 gallon baggie with a rag to keep the dirt from accumulating on it.
3) when raising the car, if you go passenger side with the lift points, so you can see the bolt easy and unscrew it, realize gravity is forcing oil to the drivers/opposite side which is not out the drain hole. So your not getting all the old oil out.
4) this is **** of me, but I bring it up anyway... On the new filter if you quickly fill it up half way, then tilt it and roll it around in your hands with the hole on top,you will get the filter element wet with oil. Keep rolling and all the oil should soak into the filter. Then when your ready put filter in hole side up till your next to the male threads for the filter, then flip quickly and screw on. (Don't forget to wet the rubber with the fresh oil as well)
My point is there is lots of conversations about filters and oil, but look at your oil changing process and you may see your introducing contaminates into the oil inadvertently.
I love the car and love the forum. Still in the honeymoon stages and hoping this is a long term relationship with the forum and the car.����
This is not a whining comment about bolts too tight, or filter stuck, or which oil to use... Just some food for thought when changing the oil.
Couple of non technical thoughts...
1) when you buy oil and let it sit in your garage waiting for the next time to do the oil change, It gets dust and dirt particles on it. When you unscrew the cap and dump it in the funnel where does that dirt go?? Yeah in the engine. Wipe your bottles off.
2) when your done with your funnel what do you do with it? Wipe it out and put it back on the shelf where it accumulates more dirt till next oil change in 6 months to a year? Put it in a plastic 1 gallon baggie with a rag to keep the dirt from accumulating on it.
3) when raising the car, if you go passenger side with the lift points, so you can see the bolt easy and unscrew it, realize gravity is forcing oil to the drivers/opposite side which is not out the drain hole. So your not getting all the old oil out.
4) this is **** of me, but I bring it up anyway... On the new filter if you quickly fill it up half way, then tilt it and roll it around in your hands with the hole on top,you will get the filter element wet with oil. Keep rolling and all the oil should soak into the filter. Then when your ready put filter in hole side up till your next to the male threads for the filter, then flip quickly and screw on. (Don't forget to wet the rubber with the fresh oil as well)
My point is there is lots of conversations about filters and oil, but look at your oil changing process and you may see your introducing contaminates into the oil inadvertently.
I love the car and love the forum. Still in the honeymoon stages and hoping this is a long term relationship with the forum and the car.����
Last edited by ActionStarCBRXX; 03-11-2015 at 10:04 PM.
#420
I keep channel lock pliers with the oil change stuff. (series II). I just crimp down on the filter, turn filter a 1/8 of a turn, and recrimp again. After maybe three times, the filter is hand tight. The hex drain plugs are a cheap item, probably best to have a spare on hand. They can crack and leak
#421
Smoking turbo yay
#422
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
Fumoto rox on my S2!
#423
Water Foul
I took my car to the dealership ($24.95!) two weekends ago for an oil change, and the service writer took me out to the shop to show the tech how to operate my Fumoto valve. Then he proceeded to overfill it. Those guys are geniuses, let me tell you!
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wannawankel (08-10-2022)
#424
Registered
I did my first oil change on a rotary engine vehicle 2 weeks ago.
I did something no one ever does and referenced my owners manual before starting.
It was much quicker than posting on the internet and waiting for answers to questions that had been answered 760 times.
I did something no one ever does and referenced my owners manual before starting.
It was much quicker than posting on the internet and waiting for answers to questions that had been answered 760 times.
#425
Smoking turbo yay
S2 RX-8 oil change is actually very easy and doesn't get messy. I hated doing it on my Accord because the stupid drain hole faces sideways; you either have to open up the drain bolt just by a tiny bit and watch the Godfather trilogy, or take off the drain bolt and chaos ensues.
Wow.
To be honest, I overfilled by a quart my first time doing the oil change on my 8...
The Fumoto valve should be really self-explanatory to operate.
I think I would spend a little over CAN$30 to do everything myself.
Wait, S1 owner's manual tells you how to do an oil change? I read through the S2 manual and I don't think there is a section for that. It just tells you how to add oil routinely.
To be honest, I overfilled by a quart my first time doing the oil change on my 8...
The Fumoto valve should be really self-explanatory to operate.
I think I would spend a little over CAN$30 to do everything myself.
Wait, S1 owner's manual tells you how to do an oil change? I read through the S2 manual and I don't think there is a section for that. It just tells you how to add oil routinely.