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-   -   DIY: Installing Series II Fuel Pump in Series I (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-installing-series-ii-fuel-pump-series-i-230326/)

TeamRX8 05-04-2015 06:47 PM

PartsGroup ismostly Miata only now, though they may have some misc leftover stuff. You will have to call and ask. No current RX8 info on their website any more

gwilliams6 05-25-2015 07:12 PM


Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4687690)
Where can you get hold of an s2 assy these days ... I can't seem to find it available anywhere (except Mazda). Mazmart have stopped stocking them .

Just got it from Mazmart. They sourced it from the West Coast , the S2 pump and assembly. Just had it put in my Series 1, 40th AE RX8. Jim of JPR Imports in southern New Jersey did the install with the pin connector and submersible fuel line mod. He said it was no sweat and is available to do the swap for any RX8 owners in the NJ,Pa.,Del., Md. and NY areas. I didn't have the tools and time to do it myself, but Jim is reasonable and a longtime Master rotary wrench.

bmannie5851 10-06-2015 07:17 PM

hi guys, I'm trying to attempt this (at first) with a flat head and hammer. But I'm not sure with the 2 lock tab around the ring. How do you unlock them? Do you push/slide them up or do people break them off? Thanks

Warrior777 10-06-2015 07:47 PM

I just broke them off, or bent them out of the way.

bmannie5851 10-18-2015 11:48 AM

2 Attachment(s)
hello everyone, does anyone know how to replace this green O ring seal the easy way? It has been very tricky for hours now. The tools I'm using: pin and tweezers. My issue is that this line is leaking gas from the connector to the fuel pump, so my first plan is to replace this O ring seal. If that doesn't work I will replace the whole fuel line. As for the fuel line does anyone know the part #? Thanks:bowdown:

GK1707 10-18-2015 12:52 PM

Maybe an angled mechanics pick to fish out the O ring. Those connectors suck the one on top of the pump I just cut off and replaced with 5/16 submersible fuel line and worm drive clamps. Holds perfectly.

bmannie5851 10-18-2015 01:11 PM

@GK1707. wow that is so innovative, thanks for the response.

bmannie5851 11-22-2015 07:16 PM

Hello, My only leak :( help
 
1 Attachment(s)
Has anyone encounter this leak? it only leaks here, no where else. And I made sure the O-ring is pretty tight. Thanks

etzilon 11-22-2015 10:50 PM

Assembly not seating well; likely one of the hoses is right underneath the assembly. Take it out, make sure all hoses are routed properly and remember the plastic ring goes on tight (around 100 ft-lbs if I remember correctly).

Flying Dutchy 04-21-2016 09:45 AM

Greetings folks,

I believe this could be my 1st post. My '07 RX8's fuel pump started giving out so I went on here for some information. From what I understand, all I need is the S2 assembly, a bit of 5/16 hose and an adapter to connect the old S1 fuel tank hose to the new 5/16 hose.

I don't need the S2 fuel pump ring and rubber seal, I can just install this fuel pump on the stock plastic "O-ring", right?

Thanks in advance lads,

derkenblosh 05-11-2016 10:24 AM

Used this stuff in the past when working with old fuel door gaskets when i didn't want to put the crazy effort into torquing down the ring, only to take it off in a few months...


Permatex® PermaShield™ Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant Specially formulated for superior fluid resistance, this polyester urethane based gasketing compound withstands extreme temperature changes without hardening. Its non-setting, non-hardening character remains tacky even with rapid changes in temperature, enabling repeated assembly and disassembly of parts. Suitable as either a gasket maker or dressing, PermaShield™ seals surface imperfections between metal parts and is ideal in high performance applications...



US Part Number: 85420
Canada Part Number: 85420


tgaffner 08-12-2016 07:20 PM

I just did this and I bought the following:

1- 2 pack of 3/8 (steel) to 5/16 (nylon) 90* quick dissconnect elbows. $8 and no jimmy rigging whatsoever.....

Any car parts store should have these. Supprisingly, I got mine from NAPA. Both lines are 5/16 and both nipples on the pump are 3/8. I do not like reusing the old fitting on top. But thats just me. I modified the old fuel level sensor plug as described in the OP.

Very simple. That is if you buy a fuel pump lock ring tool...

TeamRX8 08-17-2017 12:10 AM

Just confirming that the level float connector on the RH side of the S2 fuel tank is the same connector as on the LH side that is needed to connect to the inner top side of the S2 fuel pump. I may try to get some PNP adapter harnesses made.

TeamRX8 08-17-2017 12:30 AM

Also cross-referencing info on the S2 pump in the link below including flow/pressure testing and aftermarket pump type (different type than the S1 pump)

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-af...thread-261755/

Brettus 08-21-2017 04:04 AM


Originally Posted by TeamRX8 (Post 4832050)
I may try to get some PNP adapter harnesses made.

I could take a dozen or more of those for the rx8 race cars I work with . How soon could you get something together ?

TeamRX8 08-22-2017 02:09 AM

It's just an idea, but may not be feasible. I just spent an hour looking through various catalogs and didn't find that connector. The one company I know of that could find it for sure seems to have jacked up their prices through the roof for some reason; $75 USD just for one connector! And we'd need two connectors for a PnP harness. WTF?!? I doubt anyone will pay that rather than modify and swap a used one.

Alternatively, they could swap in the S2 fuel level float sensor from an S2 to make it PnP with no mods. That's not so cheap either; $160 USD MSRP

TeamRX8 11-12-2017 01:57 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Ok, finally did this last night. Kind of a pita. I bought the Dorman nylon fuel line tool kit to install the larger 5/16” barb x 3/8” steel connector elbow on the siphon hose. That might seem like an expensive way to do it, but I had already decided to also do all my engine bay fuel line mods using nylon and QD connectors similar to OE because it’s just so lightweight. The Dorman connectors are better than the OE ones imo.

For turbo/larger engine swaps you can actually run 3/8” nylon fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine bay in place of the factory 5/16” steel line. This is actually a common mod for aftermarket fuel lines now. To make bends you buy the slideover flexible spring that has an ID that matches the tube OD and while wearing leather gloves you heat it up with a heat gun, make the bend and hold it until it cools, then slide the spring bender off. The spring bender keeps the tubing round and prevents it from collapsing while soft from the heating process.

If you want the arrow on the top of the fuel pump housing to point in the correct forward position then you can replace the 90* elbow on the pump discharge fuel line to a straight 5/16” barb x 3/8” steel connector, but I just rotated the pump housing about 95* CW or so to line up the factory elbow for now just like everyone else.

Also, I did use the S2 float level wiring connector from the passenger side float and it’s the same as the driver side connector that plugs into the pump module. So there are two useable wiring connectors per S2 fuel tank. You don’t just need the one on the pump side because both sides are the same. The wiring pins are the same inside both the S1 and S2 connectors too. De-pinning and swapping the connectors is as easy as it gets. Not sure why some people thought it was a loose fit etc. earlier in the thread? I concluded that an adapter harness doesn’t really make any sense. So I took pictures of all the connector sides and am going to try and find a source for just the connector only instead.

In retrospect I should have asked for the S2 siphon hose assembly and just installed that rather than mess around with swapping the connector elbow out on my S1 siphon tube.

However I did come across a situation that people should be aware of. I had pulled my S1 fuel float out of the tank to swap the connector and noticed that the insulation sheathing on both wires was abraded and torn through in several places like they were rubbing on the pump housing or something. If the exposed areas on the two wires had touched together it would have shorted out :uhh: So I encased them both in heat-shrink tubing to take care of a problem that was just waiting to happen.

hufflepuff 11-28-2017 01:03 PM


Originally Posted by TeamRX8 (Post 4843168)
Ok, finally did this last night. Kind of a pita. I bought the Dorman nylon fuel line tool kit to install the larger 5/16” barb x 3/8” steel connector elbow on the siphon hose. That might seem like an expensive way to do it, but I had already decided to also do all my engine bay fuel line mods using nylon and QD connectors similar to OE because it’s just so lightweight. The Dorman connectors are better than the OE ones imo.

For turbo/larger engine swaps you can actually run 3/8” nylon fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine bay in place of the factory 5/16” steel line. This is actually a common mod for aftermarket fuel lines now. To make bends you buy the slideover flexible spring that has an ID that matches the tube OD and while wearing leather gloves you heat it up with a heat gun, make the bend and hold it until it cools, then slide the spring bender off. The spring bender keeps the tubing round and prevents it from collapsing while soft from the heating process.

If you want the arrow on the top of the fuel pump housing to point in the correct forward position then you can replace the 90* elbow on the pump discharge fuel line to a straight 5/16” barb x 3/8” steel connector, but I just rotated the pump housing about 95* CW or so to line up the factory elbow for now just like everyone else.

Also, I did use the S2 float level wiring connector from the passenger side float and it’s the same as the driver side connector that plugs into the pump module. So there are two useable wiring connectors per S2 fuel tank. You don’t just need the one on the pump side because both sides are the same. The wiring pins are the same inside both the S1 and S2 connectors too. De-pinning and swapping the connectors is as easy as it gets. Not sure why some people thought it was a loose fit etc. earlier in the thread? I concluded that an adapter harness doesn’t really make any sense. So I took pictures of all the connector sides and am going to try and find a source for just the connector only instead.

In retrospect I should have asked for the S2 siphon hose assembly and just installed that rather than mess around with swapping the connector elbow out on my S1 siphon tube.

However I did come across a situation that people should be aware of. I had pulled my S1 fuel float out of the tank to swap the connector and noticed that the insulation sheathing on both wires was abraded and torn through in several places like they were rubbing on the pump housing or something. If the exposed areas on the two wires had touched together it would have shorted out :uhh: So I encased them both in heat-shrink tubing to take care of a problem that was just waiting to happen.

How difficult would it be to swap the s2 siphon hose assembly?

TeamRX8 11-29-2017 02:34 AM

I think the biggest issue will be getting the ring nut off the RH side since it probably has never been taken off since originally installed at the factory. Then you only need to snake the pipe through the top crossover opening in the fuel tank and that shouldn’t be any issue. However, I haven’t actually done it and am making assumptions, like it otherwise attaches like the S1 pipe using all the same components, etc.. I know where you can probably get an entire used rear S2 siphon pipe & pickup assy, but I already got the last fuel level float connector from him so you’ll either need to find another one somewhere else or modify the S1 connector by cutting the slot into it.

Doblegota 01-15-2018 02:49 AM

So just installed the DW300 in S1 before all these analysis.

Thanks people for all the years looking for the solution.

Probably during my DW300 life could be necessary to not to force the tank level to the end. I’m premixing so should be advice and alert.

Thanks people.

TeamRX8 01-16-2018 04:00 AM

Ok thanks for sharing, but swapping the S1 pump in the S1 pump module has nothing to to do with the thread topic. Not sure why you posted it here? :dunno:

Doblegota 01-16-2018 05:31 AM

JAjajajaj

Sorry. Reason is because I started with the post of mazdamaniac. Then it sends to another post and the end came to these one. I’ve read everything:-)

That’s why I posted here. Ajjajajaja sorry.

And also all these readings came during but mostly after installing by myself the DW300.

That’s why I said I should be in alert because it’s not the solution.
It was recommend to me these fuel pump. That’s all.

Again: Thanks to all for all the investigation during all these years.

Cheers ;-)

Doblegota 01-16-2018 06:55 AM

As said, I jumped from one to another ending here. ;-)

vcoil 03-07-2018 03:10 PM

O-ring
 
Hi,
Need I to buy the S1 O-ring or the S2 one for the swap?
Thank you in advance

Best regards

RotaryMachineRx 03-08-2018 12:03 PM

I don't believe it matters, everything should be the same size but since you are installing the S2 assembly I'd go with the S2 for assurance. Are you talking about the o-ring on pump motor or the o-ring around the pump assembly where it sits on top of the fuel tank?


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