DIY: Flywheel/Clutch Removal and Replacement
12-15-2011, 12:00 AM
#1
DIY: Flywheel/Clutch Removal and Replacement
My pilot bearing went out and when I tried to look up a write up on how to drop the transmission I couldn't find anything that was very complete, so I decided to make my own. This is my first write up, so be easy on it :P.
First off, read this. It did wonders for me: http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/RX8/5Transmissions.pdf
It has everything you need to know to do it and much, much more. Including torque number, etc.
Anyway, to start off you want to disconnect the negative battery terminal and jack your car up, obviously haha. Jack up all four corners as high as you can and make sure you use jackstands!!
Now, get inside the car and work on disconnecting your shifter so you don't have to worry about it later when you're all dirty and stuff :P.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU ARE PREPARED AND HAVE ALL THE RIGHT TOOLS TO REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL, PILOT BEARING, ETC. YOU CAN FIND ALL OF THESE TOOLS AT WWW.MAZDATRIX.COM
1. Unscrew your shift ****
2. Gently pry up the middle part of the center console and remove it (disconnect whatever wires are under there. heated seats, etc.)
3. Remove the rubber shroud around your shifter
4. You'll see 2 clips holding wires onto studs with nuts on them, remove them to get to the nuts
5. Remove the ashtray, it makes life easier
6. Unbolt the 4 nuts and lift up that cover, then remove the second rubber shroud.
7. Now, you'll see three bolts holding your shifter on, undo those and lift the shifter out. Put a rag or something in the hole to stop things from falling in there if you're paranoid like me :D.
Now, time to get under the car.
First off, you wanna remove the exhaust.
1. Take off the cross-members first, there are 2 of them.
2. Disconnect the O2 sensor that plugs into the catalytic converter
3. Unbolt the 3 bolts on the flange right before the cat
4. Undo the exhaust hangers and disconnect the exhaust from the muffler as well
5. Set it aside and take a peek inside your cat just to make sure your honeycomb is intact :D
Just a random picture of the shifter, cross-members, and starter (Which we’re about to take off!) Also, make sure you label all your bolts, nuts, and everything you take off and note where it goes. It saves a lot of headache, I promise.
1. The starter is easy, first unbolt the negative and positive wires.
2. One of them is under the white plastic cover, which pops off
3. It’s held on by two 14mm bolts, the bottom one is just a bolt
4. The top bolt is a long stud with a nut, so after you take the nut off take the bolt out as well
5. Carefully remove the starter and set it aside
6. Now is also a good time to replace your starter if you have the weak one from the factory
Time to drain the transmission!
Here is a write-up to save time, it also includes how to do it on the differential: http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/
Now, unbolt the slave cylinder
1. The clutch slave cylinder is located on top of the transmission bellhousing
2. It has two bolts on the same side, I think they’re either 12mm or 14mm
3. Undo these bolts and then gently pull the slave cylinder out
4. Be careful with the clutch lines, they’re solid, but flexible.
5. Now, follow the clutch line to the bellhousing and you’ll see where it’s held on by a bracket
6. It’s held on by one 12mm bolt, take it off, and let the slave hang
Next, disconnect the 4 wires on top of the transmission, there are 2 black and 2 white ones, so make sure you label them.
Time to unbolt the power-plant frame (PPF). It’s heavy, and I recommend having a second person there to help you manhandle it. Also, either get a transmission jack or fabricate one to support your transmission. I used a regular car jack with a piece of 2x4.
1. The PPF is held on by 9 21mm nuts at over 100 ft/lbs, so a breaker bar comes in very handy.
2. There are 4 nuts on the transmission end and 5 on the differential end.
3. Remove all 5 rear nuts and loosen all 4 front nuts, but leave one on there for support
4. Stick a piece of wood behind the diff to stop it from swiveling forward
5. Undo the last bolt on the front end
6. BE VERY CAREFUL! I highly recommend getting a second person there to support it while you take the last nut off. If it falls on you, it could seriously injure you.
7. Once you safely drop it, remove it from under the car.
The fifth rear bolt is the one you see sideways going into the diff, this is a bolt, not a nut.
Removing the drive shaft
1. First off, be VERY careful with the drive shaft, if you as much as
scratch it you may want to consider a new one. They’re carbon fiber and balanced almost to perfection
2. Now, get into the car and make sure your e-brake is up
3. Get back under the car and remove the 2 bottom bolts on the drive shaft on the diff side.
4. Let the e-brake off, rotate the drive shaft to get the other 2 bolts showing, then pull the e-brake back up and remove the last 2 bolts.
5. Very gently tilt the drive shaft down and pull it out of the end of the transmission
6. I recommend wrapping it in towels and zip-ties to protect it
And now the fun starts! Time to start removing the transmission bolts. Make sure everything is disconnected and out of the way. Basically, just double check everything.
1. There are 5 14mm bolts holding the transmission in.
2. There is also a bracket on the lower passenger side that is easily overlooked, remove it
3. There is one in each corner, except the top right has 2 bolts that you will most likely need a swivel and extensions to get to, unless you have baby arms :P.
4. Make sure your transmission is supported, and start undoing the bolts
5. Once the bolts are out, at least 2 people should hold the transmission and gently wiggle it side to side while sliding it backwards to slide the input shaft out.
6. Once you get it out, slowly and gently set it down and slide it out from under the car. I put it on a big piece of cardboard and slid It out from under the car.
That is where your throwout bearing is located ^^. I highly recommend replacing it.
Now we’re ready to unbolt the pressure plate
1. The pressure plate is held on by 6 14mm screws with washers. I recommend using an impact gun as it will spin on the flywheel.
2. Loosen each bolt, but don’t take them off until they are all loose.
3. Remove pressure plate and clutch
Now it’s time to unbolt the flywheel, but I’m doing that tomorrow so that’s when I’ll finish this write up! :D
Hope this helps out, it’ll be finished tomorrow night!
First off, read this. It did wonders for me: http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/RX8/5Transmissions.pdf
It has everything you need to know to do it and much, much more. Including torque number, etc.
Anyway, to start off you want to disconnect the negative battery terminal and jack your car up, obviously haha. Jack up all four corners as high as you can and make sure you use jackstands!!
Now, get inside the car and work on disconnecting your shifter so you don't have to worry about it later when you're all dirty and stuff :P.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU ARE PREPARED AND HAVE ALL THE RIGHT TOOLS TO REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL, PILOT BEARING, ETC. YOU CAN FIND ALL OF THESE TOOLS AT WWW.MAZDATRIX.COM
1. Unscrew your shift ****
2. Gently pry up the middle part of the center console and remove it (disconnect whatever wires are under there. heated seats, etc.)
3. Remove the rubber shroud around your shifter
4. You'll see 2 clips holding wires onto studs with nuts on them, remove them to get to the nuts
5. Remove the ashtray, it makes life easier
6. Unbolt the 4 nuts and lift up that cover, then remove the second rubber shroud.
7. Now, you'll see three bolts holding your shifter on, undo those and lift the shifter out. Put a rag or something in the hole to stop things from falling in there if you're paranoid like me :D.
Now, time to get under the car.
First off, you wanna remove the exhaust.
1. Take off the cross-members first, there are 2 of them.
2. Disconnect the O2 sensor that plugs into the catalytic converter
3. Unbolt the 3 bolts on the flange right before the cat
4. Undo the exhaust hangers and disconnect the exhaust from the muffler as well
5. Set it aside and take a peek inside your cat just to make sure your honeycomb is intact :D
Just a random picture of the shifter, cross-members, and starter (Which we’re about to take off!) Also, make sure you label all your bolts, nuts, and everything you take off and note where it goes. It saves a lot of headache, I promise.
1. The starter is easy, first unbolt the negative and positive wires.
2. One of them is under the white plastic cover, which pops off
3. It’s held on by two 14mm bolts, the bottom one is just a bolt
4. The top bolt is a long stud with a nut, so after you take the nut off take the bolt out as well
5. Carefully remove the starter and set it aside
6. Now is also a good time to replace your starter if you have the weak one from the factory
Time to drain the transmission!
Here is a write-up to save time, it also includes how to do it on the differential: http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/
Now, unbolt the slave cylinder
1. The clutch slave cylinder is located on top of the transmission bellhousing
2. It has two bolts on the same side, I think they’re either 12mm or 14mm
3. Undo these bolts and then gently pull the slave cylinder out
4. Be careful with the clutch lines, they’re solid, but flexible.
5. Now, follow the clutch line to the bellhousing and you’ll see where it’s held on by a bracket
6. It’s held on by one 12mm bolt, take it off, and let the slave hang
Next, disconnect the 4 wires on top of the transmission, there are 2 black and 2 white ones, so make sure you label them.
Time to unbolt the power-plant frame (PPF). It’s heavy, and I recommend having a second person there to help you manhandle it. Also, either get a transmission jack or fabricate one to support your transmission. I used a regular car jack with a piece of 2x4.
1. The PPF is held on by 9 21mm nuts at over 100 ft/lbs, so a breaker bar comes in very handy.
2. There are 4 nuts on the transmission end and 5 on the differential end.
3. Remove all 5 rear nuts and loosen all 4 front nuts, but leave one on there for support
4. Stick a piece of wood behind the diff to stop it from swiveling forward
5. Undo the last bolt on the front end
6. BE VERY CAREFUL! I highly recommend getting a second person there to support it while you take the last nut off. If it falls on you, it could seriously injure you.
7. Once you safely drop it, remove it from under the car.
The fifth rear bolt is the one you see sideways going into the diff, this is a bolt, not a nut.
Removing the drive shaft
1. First off, be VERY careful with the drive shaft, if you as much as
scratch it you may want to consider a new one. They’re carbon fiber and balanced almost to perfection
2. Now, get into the car and make sure your e-brake is up
3. Get back under the car and remove the 2 bottom bolts on the drive shaft on the diff side.
4. Let the e-brake off, rotate the drive shaft to get the other 2 bolts showing, then pull the e-brake back up and remove the last 2 bolts.
5. Very gently tilt the drive shaft down and pull it out of the end of the transmission
6. I recommend wrapping it in towels and zip-ties to protect it
And now the fun starts! Time to start removing the transmission bolts. Make sure everything is disconnected and out of the way. Basically, just double check everything.
1. There are 5 14mm bolts holding the transmission in.
2. There is also a bracket on the lower passenger side that is easily overlooked, remove it
3. There is one in each corner, except the top right has 2 bolts that you will most likely need a swivel and extensions to get to, unless you have baby arms :P.
4. Make sure your transmission is supported, and start undoing the bolts
5. Once the bolts are out, at least 2 people should hold the transmission and gently wiggle it side to side while sliding it backwards to slide the input shaft out.
6. Once you get it out, slowly and gently set it down and slide it out from under the car. I put it on a big piece of cardboard and slid It out from under the car.
That is where your throwout bearing is located ^^. I highly recommend replacing it.
Now we’re ready to unbolt the pressure plate
1. The pressure plate is held on by 6 14mm screws with washers. I recommend using an impact gun as it will spin on the flywheel.
2. Loosen each bolt, but don’t take them off until they are all loose.
3. Remove pressure plate and clutch
Now it’s time to unbolt the flywheel, but I’m doing that tomorrow so that’s when I’ll finish this write up! :D
Hope this helps out, it’ll be finished tomorrow night!
Last edited by vlad0691; 01-25-2012 at 10:27 PM.
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nestorperez_44 (04-14-2019)
01-25-2012, 10:25 PM
#4
I completely forgot I never finished this write up!
I will now attempt to do so! Oh and sorry I forgot to take pictures of this part :[.
Unbolting the flywheel:
The flywheel is held on by a huge 54mm nut. There are 2 ways to get this off: Get a flywheel stopper and a 54mm socket with a GIANT breaker and a way to secure your motor, OR use an impact gun. The latter of the two is MUCH easier, but you will need access to a pretty large compressor (I have a 50gal and that seemed to barely get it off). The nut is held on with 300+ ft/lbs of torque.
1. Unbolt the flywheel nut.
2. If you plan to reuse the flywheel, you will need to GENTLY hammer on the outer edge in between the teeth and the friction surface until it comes lose. Be very careful not to damage your flywheel!!!
3. Resurface your flywheel if you reuse it!
Now you must remove your pilot bearing and pilot bearing seal.
Make sure you're prepared for this, because the RX-8 pilot bearing is much smaller than most pilot bearings and regular pullers from autozone are too big. I would recommend ordering the pilot bearing puller for the RX-8 from Mazdatrix.com. It makes the job happen in about 30 seconds. There are other methods, but none worked for me and they're a pain in the a$$.
1. Use pilot bearing puller to remove the bearing
2. I used a deep socket with an OD slightly bigger than that of the pilot bearing and seal. (The seal goes in after the bearing)
3. Gently tap the bearing and seal in until it sits flush with the output shaft, be careful not to push it in too far!
4. Don't forget to lightly apply heavy duty grease to the bearing!!
Installing new throwout bearing
1. The easier way I found was to remove the fork by taking out the metal spring thingy.
2. Grease the new T/O bearing and install! This is pretty straight-forward!
Now you're pretty much ready to put everything back on in reverse order.
Here are a couple tips:
Use BLUE threadlocker on the big 54mm flywheel nut and make sure you torque it down sufficiently.
Also use blue threadlocker on the pressure plate bolts. And be careful with these when you torque them because the snap easily.
Fill back up with tranny fluid and reinstall everything and pray it all works out! I was slightly amazed I didn't mess anything up as it was my very first clutch job ever :P.
Good luck and I hope this helped! Happy DIY-ing
I will now attempt to do so! Oh and sorry I forgot to take pictures of this part :[.
Unbolting the flywheel:
The flywheel is held on by a huge 54mm nut. There are 2 ways to get this off: Get a flywheel stopper and a 54mm socket with a GIANT breaker and a way to secure your motor, OR use an impact gun. The latter of the two is MUCH easier, but you will need access to a pretty large compressor (I have a 50gal and that seemed to barely get it off). The nut is held on with 300+ ft/lbs of torque.
1. Unbolt the flywheel nut.
2. If you plan to reuse the flywheel, you will need to GENTLY hammer on the outer edge in between the teeth and the friction surface until it comes lose. Be very careful not to damage your flywheel!!!
3. Resurface your flywheel if you reuse it!
Now you must remove your pilot bearing and pilot bearing seal.
Make sure you're prepared for this, because the RX-8 pilot bearing is much smaller than most pilot bearings and regular pullers from autozone are too big. I would recommend ordering the pilot bearing puller for the RX-8 from Mazdatrix.com. It makes the job happen in about 30 seconds. There are other methods, but none worked for me and they're a pain in the a$$.
1. Use pilot bearing puller to remove the bearing
2. I used a deep socket with an OD slightly bigger than that of the pilot bearing and seal. (The seal goes in after the bearing)
3. Gently tap the bearing and seal in until it sits flush with the output shaft, be careful not to push it in too far!
4. Don't forget to lightly apply heavy duty grease to the bearing!!
Installing new throwout bearing
1. The easier way I found was to remove the fork by taking out the metal spring thingy.
2. Grease the new T/O bearing and install! This is pretty straight-forward!
Now you're pretty much ready to put everything back on in reverse order.
Here are a couple tips:
Use BLUE threadlocker on the big 54mm flywheel nut and make sure you torque it down sufficiently.
Also use blue threadlocker on the pressure plate bolts. And be careful with these when you torque them because the snap easily.
Fill back up with tranny fluid and reinstall everything and pray it all works out! I was slightly amazed I didn't mess anything up as it was my very first clutch job ever :P.
Good luck and I hope this helped! Happy DIY-ing
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25STX_RX8 (04-06-2020)
02-16-2012, 05:17 PM
#8
A couple of things I would add from when I did mine.
The exhaust should have an earthing strap on the drivers side if you forget to take it off you exhaust will fall sideways, then you have to man handle it whilst reaching for a spanner to undo the wire.
I was told to mark the drive shaft on the rear diff and replace in the exactly the same position
When your nearly done Jack up the transmission and make sure the gear stick is the same height as before. Mine sat a little low, so I jacked up the car loosened the ppf and jacked it up then tightened it again.
Bleed the clutch line, mine had a little air bubble leaving the bite point really low on the clutch
Like the OP says be careful with the PPF when I was reinstalling mine I dropped it on my face, worst thing is you have to work through the pain and lift it up to secure whilst bleeding from your cheek.
Great write up OP mine took about 9 hours to do on my drive.
The exhaust should have an earthing strap on the drivers side if you forget to take it off you exhaust will fall sideways, then you have to man handle it whilst reaching for a spanner to undo the wire.
I was told to mark the drive shaft on the rear diff and replace in the exactly the same position
When your nearly done Jack up the transmission and make sure the gear stick is the same height as before. Mine sat a little low, so I jacked up the car loosened the ppf and jacked it up then tightened it again.
Bleed the clutch line, mine had a little air bubble leaving the bite point really low on the clutch
Like the OP says be careful with the PPF when I was reinstalling mine I dropped it on my face, worst thing is you have to work through the pain and lift it up to secure whilst bleeding from your cheek.
Great write up OP mine took about 9 hours to do on my drive.
.
08-01-2012, 05:10 PM
#14
OP,
This post has been great. I am down to the flywheel. I got the pilot bearing out with a modified Harbor Freight puller (bench grinder FTW, did not need all that metal anyway).
Am renting an electric impact wrench this weekend. Will post some pics here or start a "last resort tools" thread. I think there are a few more out there.
If you would like, I will take some assembly pics and you can fill out that part of your DIY. Let me know.
What I learned so far...
The ground strap is on the muffler on a 2004.
The flywheel will not spin when you are doing pressure plate bolts if you line your wrench up with the center of the flywheel and push from there. The forces equal out.
Pull on the tips of the springs for the yoke (where they stick out) to release the yoke from the pivot pin.
Those little thump ratchets, that are just the head of the socket, are great!
They should find and shoot whomever decided where the 5th bolt for the transmission should be located. While at it, they should maim the one who picked where the slave cylinder goes.
$80 for a cheap transmission jack is a must if you have to do all of this by yourself.
Again, thanks for the DIY.
This post has been great. I am down to the flywheel. I got the pilot bearing out with a modified Harbor Freight puller (bench grinder FTW, did not need all that metal anyway).
Am renting an electric impact wrench this weekend. Will post some pics here or start a "last resort tools" thread. I think there are a few more out there.
If you would like, I will take some assembly pics and you can fill out that part of your DIY. Let me know.
What I learned so far...
The ground strap is on the muffler on a 2004.
The flywheel will not spin when you are doing pressure plate bolts if you line your wrench up with the center of the flywheel and push from there. The forces equal out.
Pull on the tips of the springs for the yoke (where they stick out) to release the yoke from the pivot pin.
Those little thump ratchets, that are just the head of the socket, are great!
They should find and shoot whomever decided where the 5th bolt for the transmission should be located. While at it, they should maim the one who picked where the slave cylinder goes.
$80 for a cheap transmission jack is a must if you have to do all of this by yourself.
Again, thanks for the DIY.
08-05-2012, 07:49 PM
#15
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Thanks a lot for the DIY! Spent the whole day saturday disassembling... waiting on Monday to resurface the flywheel.. Couple things, i went to harbor freight and got the bearing puller, works magic 30sec that pilot was out! Aldo went to northern tools and got a 20in 3/4 breaker bar and used a 1foot tube i had home for extra leverege, if you get a 24in would be better but they did not have it in stock, anything bigger wont fit unless you can get the car higher than the normal stands. Anyways i had to use my feet but came off!
08-06-2012, 01:05 PM
#16
You are doing better than I did....
Make sure, absolutely sure, when you in stall the clutch and pressure plate that they are aligned. The alignment tool will not force the alignment. It lets you check it. When done, it should sit in the middle and tap slightly when you push it in every direction. You get something like 0.05 inches of wiggle room or will tear the seal. It can be done though, just not by me.
Also, when you pull it out, do so slowly. When I pulled mine out, on the first try, it made a popping sound from the seal. The pop was due to the vacuum behind it. That vacuum likely combined with an air pocket below one of the roller bearings, and popped it out. When we installed the transmission, right, on the first try, the shaft pushed the bearing sideways to the back of the race and stopped everything half an inch before done. After mucking with it for a few hours and tearing up the seal I took it all back apart and found the bearing.
Screwing with it after that screwed up the other half of the seals in Orlando (1).
Tips so far:
be
Make sure, absolutely sure, when you in stall the clutch and pressure plate that they are aligned. The alignment tool will not force the alignment. It lets you check it. When done, it should sit in the middle and tap slightly when you push it in every direction. You get something like 0.05 inches of wiggle room or will tear the seal. It can be done though, just not by me.
Also, when you pull it out, do so slowly. When I pulled mine out, on the first try, it made a popping sound from the seal. The pop was due to the vacuum behind it. That vacuum likely combined with an air pocket below one of the roller bearings, and popped it out. When we installed the transmission, right, on the first try, the shaft pushed the bearing sideways to the back of the race and stopped everything half an inch before done. After mucking with it for a few hours and tearing up the seal I took it all back apart and found the bearing.
Screwing with it after that screwed up the other half of the seals in Orlando (1).
Tips so far:
be
- incredibly gentle. there is no force needed anywhere at all
- go slow, if you out of alignment, the seal will be torn
- the cheap harbor freight transmission jack is deadly, the strap will not disconnect when the transmission is in position, the smooth top lets the transmission slide and the "v" in the top guarantees you cannot get the transmission level.
08-07-2012, 10:20 AM
#17
I tried to harbor freight pullers, but none of them worked. Im assuming its cause my pilot bearing was already destroyed, which is why I had to drop the tranny.
Also, I have an 04 6MT and I dont have the exhaust ground or whatever.
Also, I have an 04 6MT and I dont have the exhaust ground or whatever.
08-07-2012, 07:28 PM
#18
You have to modify the harbor freight puller. I will try to do some pictures, but basically you grind the tips so that there is only about a 1/4 inch past the hook, grind the center parts of the prongs so that the tips will fit closer, then make the prong longer by grinding some of the material away where it hits the end of the e-shaft. My biggest problem was waiting for the parts to cool down from the grinder.
08-08-2012, 08:48 PM
#20
The problem child (throw out, or release, bearing) with a good one on the right.
The modified harbor freight pilot bearing puller. You can get a feel for the original shape from the picture on the box. I thought I took a before picture, but cannot find it. Basically the tips, past the part that engages the bearing, are significantly shortened, and the reach was extended by removing material from the thick part of the prong.
The modified harbor freight pilot bearing puller. You can get a feel for the original shape from the picture on the box. I thought I took a before picture, but cannot find it. Basically the tips, past the part that engages the bearing, are significantly shortened, and the reach was extended by removing material from the thick part of the prong.
08-09-2012, 08:02 AM
#22
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Am done, There's just one problem, clutch is biting way too soon. Just let off not even one inch and already bites. I will bleed the lines today put new oil to make sure theres no bubbles and i guess adjust the pedal from there? Any suggestions?
08-09-2012, 07:08 PM
#23
@Rxles
Looks like you have a nicer harbor freight than I do.. How much was that one?
@ All.
Thanks Rote8. The move to a lighter flywheel is an outstanding mod if you have the trans out. Feels like the car is 400 lbs lighter. Revs much faster, less time between shifts (gotta slow down) and accelerates much better at lower RPM. I have to relearn to heel/toe.
Thanks Charles@BHR for all the help. The problems I had were crazy and on a Saturday and Sunday. You could have stopped responding to email, and did not.
Looks like you have a nicer harbor freight than I do.. How much was that one?
@ All.
Thanks Rote8. The move to a lighter flywheel is an outstanding mod if you have the trans out. Feels like the car is 400 lbs lighter. Revs much faster, less time between shifts (gotta slow down) and accelerates much better at lower RPM. I have to relearn to heel/toe.
Thanks Charles@BHR for all the help. The problems I had were crazy and on a Saturday and Sunday. You could have stopped responding to email, and did not.
08-10-2012, 12:39 PM
#25
@ Les,
There are 2 adjustments on the clutch pedal. The one you want is the one closest to the firewall. The rod is threaded through the pedal. There is a lock nut behind it. loosen the lock nut, turn the shaft to raise the pedal slightly (2 or 3 turns) and tighten the lock nut.
There is a procedure for this with measurements in the mazda manual (on line, link is somewhere on this site). The measurement here is the "play" measurement. The other measurement is pedal height, I think. It is a different screw.
Mike
There are 2 adjustments on the clutch pedal. The one you want is the one closest to the firewall. The rod is threaded through the pedal. There is a lock nut behind it. loosen the lock nut, turn the shaft to raise the pedal slightly (2 or 3 turns) and tighten the lock nut.
There is a procedure for this with measurements in the mazda manual (on line, link is somewhere on this site). The measurement here is the "play" measurement. The other measurement is pedal height, I think. It is a different screw.
Mike
