The new mounts are fantastic. I drove about 80 miles today on them going around Houston for work. No vibration on start up or at idle anymore. Everything just generally feels smoother. Next up new windshield and probably BHR Ignition.

I installed mines today as well. The front nut is a PITA to loosen. The top and rear aren't too bad. It took me a little longer then expected because I messed up and didn't tighten center nut/bolt (tighten to expose two threads of the bolts) before lowering the mounts into place and securing the other two bottom bolts. The center bolt that runs up and down the center of the rx8performance mount has a hex screw on the bottom that you need to hold on to while tightening the top bolt which obviously can't be done when the mount is sitting in place lol.

So I just got my new motor mounts, and wanted to ask a few questions and show a few pictures.


In the picture of the mount, the top-middle red yellow circle. Is this the 3rd bolt that you take off on each side's motor mount? I have only gotten that left bolt out so far. It was a pia even to just get that one. But I just wanted to make sure because you said 3 on each side. So are the 3 circled the 3 I should take out? (well, not a bolt but a nut on the right side).



Other question is: is this way of jacking up my engine ok? I have the OEM jack with a screw half way into the 2x4. It is going inside the lip of the OEM jack as a guide like someone else here suggested. Is this ok? Its not lifting up 1 specific side, its right smack dab in the middle just about. Just wanted to make sure this is ok.

james you have the correct ones circled. My install took me about two hours from the time I jacked the car up until it was back on the ground. It's safe to say that the first hour and fifteen minutes of that was attempting to get the old mounts off.

How you have the engine jacked up should work just fine. I had a hydraulic jack under the center of my transmission but what you have should work.

These look awesome, any notable difference with them yet. Are you still using the factory aluminum block mounts I noticed someone selling upgraded steel ones?

Thank you much :D

So I did manage to get the old mounts off and the new mounts on. I have an issue though. That nylock that goes on the middle bolt shooting upwards through the arm; Did you just do that hand tight?

like I thought that I was supposed to do it hand tight because when you're lowering the motor, it makes it easier to move it into the correct position.

Now that it's completely lowered, the other 2 sides bolts/nut is in perfectly fine and tight, but look at the nylock. Its kind of slanted, which isnt because its on wrong I guess thats just the angle that the bolt is going through the arm (maybe the arm is damaged slightly?). But the real issue is; the nylock is still only hand tight. You cant make it more than that because the bolt just spins with it.

Was I supposed to tighten this to a specific torque before hanging it from the arm? I just put it on hand tight. I cant imagine that can withstand the vibration of the engine.

What did you guys do with your middle nylok on the bolt that goes through the mount?

Do I have to raise it up and go through the process all over again (which I dont mind if it saves the car of course)


Also as a side question; I took off the old mounts and took a picture. Is there any way to tell if they "went bad". They seem to be in tact but are incredibly dirty and the rubber is super squishy.

No, you have to tighten the nut on the long bolt while keeping it from spinning with an allen wrench. Don't worry about the exact orientation; even tight the mount is spinnable around the long bolt to align the two motor mount bolts.

Anyone happen to have a working discount code for these mounts? Would like to order a set today. Thanks

The only difference from new is being clean ... the bottom disc is just a thin rubber membrane that holds the internal fluid in place. It doesn't serve any other purpose. Internally there are baffles that the fluid has to flow through. This was intended to dampen the vibrations.

Would be great if a vendor offered an AT option. I've been told they're different.

Who wants mounts and extra set of bushings?
 

I ordered the RX8 Performance mounts and extra bushings before Thanksgiving and unfortunately will never be able to use them. Some clown with a revoked license, a warrant for his arrest, and insufficient insurance rear-ended my 8. Because I was assisted by a state trooper and the person has a Philadelphia city warrant, he walked away as the Philadelphia city police didn't want to bother to pick him up. Result is car was totaled and I won't be replacing it with another 8.

$210 for a set of mounts and extra set of bushings (all bushings are red).

I paid $300 shipped for everything so this is at a good discount. The seller from RX8performance hasn't responded to my email to return them. Please let me know by PM if you want them. I'd prefer to give back to the forum first before I put them on ebay, as the forum has been a wealth of information for me since 2005.

Anyone else having a problem with these mounts causing excessive vibration when idling below 2k rpm and on startup? These are way better than OEM filled mounts or cracked OEM mounts, but the vibration you feel and hear below 2k rpm makes me think the mounts aren't fully tightened, although I swear they are. I've had them for about 3 months, since the install, and am curious if I did something wrong, or others are having the same issues, but not posting about them? I know these are stiffer than OEM, but why are they causing the whole car to shake when you take off? Usually they only cause vibration at idle, right?

might be a side affect of the stiffer mounts and your clutch work. Remember now that the engine mounts are stiffer any anomaly in your clutch work will be pronounced through the chassis. You essentially need to refine your 1st gear clutch work after getting some stiffer mounts. Now if you are saying you have some crazy vibrations after your clutch has been fully engaged then that is interesting

Great response and dead on. I had the same "issue" when I switched to the mounts until I realized that somewhere along the line I had gotten very sloppy with the clutch; made some adjustments to my "driver mod" and the problem went away.

Only one issue with your theory... Mine's an auto. Guess I'm stuck with the issue as usual... Ugh...

ah, didn't recognize that. Can't quite comment on that then.

:wallbash:

Missed that. With the MT at idle there's no torque trying to twist the engine. With AT, the engine is held relatively hard on one side, looser on the other. Not surprising then that vibration at idle is fairly high. Does much of it go away when idling in neutral?

Yeah. I figured this was the cause, because I bet you manual guys don't have it really at all during idle because you're not in gear. It's annoying, but I guess it's better than replacing OEM every 6 months. Hopefully when BHR comes out with their mounts, us AT guys won't have to upgrade to stiffer mounts that affect ride quality.

I have to say though... These are way better than the OEM reinforced mounts I had which literally felt like a jackhammer while sitting at a stop light. Lol

What in gods name do you do to that car !? lol

If you are having problems check this out.....




And for those who are worrying about your weight this holiday season




These are very cool :)

i actually just saw those lightweight mounts ... look real nice and a crazy good price too

Thanks. I'll have to check that out.

I was a tester for the aluminium mounts, and they are great. there is very mild additional vibration in comparison to his steel mounts, but the design is great and as always Scott's fabrication is top notch

FYI, this pair of mounts and extra bushings were resold.