DIY: Clean your OMP/MOP injectors
 

I read 8 pages of a 28 page thread today concerning this issue. Since I already had my engine out, I did this to prevent damage to a new engine. I am also doing the SOHN adapter and using 2 stroke with my new engine. That thread enlightened me to how important clean oil is needed to lubricate/cool the seals in the Renesis engine. Hope this saves other people over $200 like it did me. I will be saving $144 on the OMP/MOP lines and hope this saves you money as well.

1.)Get yourself some degreaser, any will probably do, but I used the purple stuff full strength.
2.)Find some hose or something that fits the end of the oil injectors. I used a syringe that was used in making jello shots on Bourbon Street, worked absolutely fantastic. If nothing comes out just fill the top of the injector full of degreaser and allow to sit, Try again, until it comes unclogged. It will just be patient.
3.)Let sit for about five minutes and repeat, several times, until liquid comes out clear.
4.)Now do the same with water, to rinse any unwanted degreaser out of the injector.
5.)Now do the same with air to remover any water that may corrode the inside of the injector.
The picture shows what the stream should look like coming out of the OMP/MOP injector

http://youtu.be/4hC2JxeBEjw

I am working on doing the OMP/MOP lines and will have this done probably tomorrow.

nice video, but i'm sure whomever actually uses that kitchen is going to want to kill you if they see it :)

as far as the lines go, seems most people replace them, but at 40 bucks a pop that seems pricey for a DIY.

The DIY isn't 40 dollars a pop. I am unsure where you got that from. This DIY was absolutely free. The injectors on atkins rotary website is $65 a piece and all four lines together were $171 for the set.

interesting, why didn't you use carb cleaner?

the lines are about 40 bucks a piece, not the DIY you posted

Oh, you just said it seems pricey for a DIY. I am not sure what that means.

Did you do the vac test on them when you were done?

You have to be careful blowing compressed air into the valves...they tend to lock stuck open and won't hold vac properly. Make sure you blow the air into them in the closed position to re-set the ball :)

Going through all the trouble and then not properly testing them seems stupid IMO. Okay, they are clean, but do they function properly? It's not a lot of money to have the peace of mind of knowing they are new. Especially if this is all going back into a new motor.

this is a great point.

I need to vacuum test my lines...*sigh*

The lines don't need testing, it's the injectors themselves. The lines just get dry-rotted over time and possibly clogged. I just replaced all of it for the peace of mind. It's only $300.00 or so.

I need to replace my lines. For some reason... I am not using any premix :crazy:

I have replaced injectors (tested before replacing) and still no use.

I am leaning towards replacing the OMP all together

Really?...I couldn't find anything that cheap...Where did you order from?

$1500 later

really... wow, havent looked into the costs yet, but damn

I paid $50.00 per injector at my local Mazda dealer and I think I paid $35.00 per line as well. It wasn't more than $350.00 I don't think.

You can get an OMP for $300.00 or so used.

I think he was attempting to be an ass...lol

No seriously brand new that little hooker costs as much as a used engine, or a really fun night in Vegas.

I think its $1584 or some shit.

When I had my engine off I was throwing that thing around like it was a rag doll. I would have locked it in a safe if I knew how much it costs.

Hmmm...I may just replace them with RB steel, braided lines...not too much more.

Only problem with them is you can't see the lines, it being one of the biggest life lines in the car I like to check on their condition often.

You are confusing lines, the RB lines feed the oil coolers, not the injectors. But I have those in hand to go on Hoss-05's car and they are good pieces, but the price is kind of ridiculous.

Someone somewhere was talking about getting a banjo fitting at the end of a braided line. I thought it was RB or mazdatrix.

I thought they had a kit that replaces ALL of the lines :/

Considering how many bends they have to make I don't see SS lines being a viable replacement option. I considered doing something different with them but I think the factory lines are just fine for 100,000 miles or so.

No mi amiga.

What do you mean by reseting the ball, I do have one stuck open, I was going to work on getting it unstuck tonight. By the way, I never blew compressed air into the valves.

in side there is a ball, kind of like speed bleeders on brake calipers. The balls purpose is to allow one way flow. If it is dirty inside and get stuck then it can prevent the flow.

I know how it works, but how do you reset the ball?

Carefully blow some air in it the way you want the ball to go :) Use some high temp silicone spray to lubricate them...seemed to work well on mine

I cleaned mine in an ultrasonic cleaner and then lubed them. All 4 were stuck open before the cleaning..and they worked perfectly after I was done

ultrasonic FTW

That would not be hard to do. You could even use stainless steel tube lines, but that would be more work to form them. Flex hoses would be simpler all around. Could probably all be identical, just bolt them in and tire wrap them for a clean looking install.


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Steel hard lines would work. Not sure how vibration, etc. would affect them though :dunno:

Hmmm question is would it be worth it considering the average lifespan of these lines. I suppose if you were running a top mount turbo that still allowed you to use the OMP it should be on the list.

My lines look and feel brand new. It is a garage b**** and has 158,000 miles on these lines. As far as checking that valve wasn't stuck, I stuck my lips to and sucked. Found one stuck open and one slightly open. Just used my syringe and sucked purple degreaser until didn't suck anymore. And rechecked an cleaned and flushed with oil until I get my new engine. I have access to someone that can fabricate small aluminum tubing for oil lines. Don't know if I will go that route or not though.

You can get goodridge stainless steel omp lines from

http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/per...g/OMPlines.htm

It says FD, but if you call up they have ones made specifically for RX8 aswell, i got myself a set, very good quality, however only issue is that they were not sleeved.

^ that seems a tad expensive... you will need 4. the site says $100 for 2 so rx8 owners will need to spend 200 on those lines.

I don't see how those SS will route very nicely without touching each other and having vibration and abrasion issues. Not worth it IMO. The factory lines are just fine and last up to 100k easy, if yours need replacing that is the way to go.

Is it possible to get to the omp lines and injectors with the engine in the car or do you have to take it out? I think I have a clogged injector and I don't have access to a engine hoist

Just need to pull the upper intake and all the stuff off the top :)

Just want to share this . The omp lines on my fc has over 200k. And it still ok until i removed then and broke it all

A new set from Mazda is about $200 retail. The other thing about the braided lines is that you can't see if they are all filled with oil or not.

another thing I wanna point out is, these "injectors" will clog no matter what. 2 of them on my FC are already clogged up. it was easy to unclog it, just spray some brake cleaner thru it for a few seconds, good as new.

Is it hard to get the intake off? Will I need any new gaskets? Sorry I'm asking so many noon questions lol. I just like to know what I'm getting into before I do it

when you take off the intake you will see if you need new gaskets or not...

most likely not though.

EDIT: I had a bigger write up but it didn't save for some reason only this chunk. Stupid servers. I'm not writing that shit all out again. Cole's Note version coming

Ya, a bit of a thread revival but I wanted to put this somewhere without having to start yet another OMP thread.

2005 MT - 150,000 km's, running standard OMP -- SOHN being implemented.

I decided to tear down my OMP system for several reasons:
1) Heat damage to OMP
2) I was suspecting the lines were plugged or the injectors were plugged.

I have a spare used OMP of which I'm assuming works.
Also a spare set of OMP Lines which in no better condition than my current lines.


Heat Damage on the OMP:
The plug end still functions, but can it be replaced?
Attachment 208438

Injectors tested out fine and look good
Attachment 208440

Oil Lines are completely clogged. I've ordered a new set.

Attachment 208439