DIY: Battery relocation to trunk
Registered
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 4
From: Whangarei, New Zealand
skatephoto
Since you are only looking to move the battery from one location in the engine bay to another, you could use all the existing wiring if you liked without any real down side.
But if you want to use 2 gauge cable I would only use this to the starter motor.
YOu can use it for the rest, but I don't think you will gain anything from using a cable that size.
This is what you are proposing -
So it would be:
BATTERY Positive----0gauge---->150 Amp FUSE----0gauge---->distribution block:
----2gauge---->60 amp fuse----2gauge-----> EPS
----2gauge---->100 amp fuse----2gauge----->Charging system
----2gauge---->100 amp fuse----2gauge----->Fuse Box
BATTERY Negative - to chassis.
I would forget about the 150amp fuse from the battery to the distribution block. - I know this sounds silly as its a safety thing, but you won't need it for this short run. The more connections you have the more likely problems you will have.
To save your self more connections, just make the distribution block and fuse holder one item.
You would only need 4 gauge cable to the fuse box and if you look closely the fuse box input terminal is already connected to a large 120amp fuse built into the box.
The charging system from the alternator only needs to have about an 8 gauge cable to the fuse box, but I would just use the factory one for this.
As for a kill switch, unless you are going to use your car for racing, I wouldn't bother with one, again, its just another connection to cause a problem.
The only reason I have one in my car is that because of where I have placed my battery it is quite differcult to get to the battery terminals to remove one if I want to disconnect the battery. So I put in a kill switch to make disconnecting the battery easy.
Also you would only need a 8 gauge cable for the EPS as well.
hope this is helpfull
Rotaman
Since you are only looking to move the battery from one location in the engine bay to another, you could use all the existing wiring if you liked without any real down side.
But if you want to use 2 gauge cable I would only use this to the starter motor.
YOu can use it for the rest, but I don't think you will gain anything from using a cable that size.
This is what you are proposing -
So it would be:
BATTERY Positive----0gauge---->150 Amp FUSE----0gauge---->distribution block:
----2gauge---->60 amp fuse----2gauge-----> EPS
----2gauge---->100 amp fuse----2gauge----->Charging system
----2gauge---->100 amp fuse----2gauge----->Fuse Box
BATTERY Negative - to chassis.
I would forget about the 150amp fuse from the battery to the distribution block. - I know this sounds silly as its a safety thing, but you won't need it for this short run. The more connections you have the more likely problems you will have.
To save your self more connections, just make the distribution block and fuse holder one item.
You would only need 4 gauge cable to the fuse box and if you look closely the fuse box input terminal is already connected to a large 120amp fuse built into the box.
The charging system from the alternator only needs to have about an 8 gauge cable to the fuse box, but I would just use the factory one for this.
As for a kill switch, unless you are going to use your car for racing, I wouldn't bother with one, again, its just another connection to cause a problem.
The only reason I have one in my car is that because of where I have placed my battery it is quite differcult to get to the battery terminals to remove one if I want to disconnect the battery. So I put in a kill switch to make disconnecting the battery easy.
Also you would only need a 8 gauge cable for the EPS as well.
hope this is helpfull
Rotaman
Last edited by Rotaman; Mar 11, 2013 at 11:16 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
skatephoto
Since you are only looking to move the battery from one location in the engine bay to another, you could use all the existing wiring if you liked without any real down side.
But if you want to use 2 gauge cable I would only use this to the starter motor.
YOu can use it for the rest, but I don't think you will gain anything from using a cable that size.
I would forget about the 150amp fuse from the battery to the distribution block. - I know this sounds silly as its a safety thing, but you won't need it for this short run. The more connections you have the more likely problems you will have.
To save your self more connections, just make the distribution block and fuse holder one item.
You would only need 4 gauge cable to the fuse box and if you look closely the fuse box input terminal is already connected to a large 120amp fuse built into the box.
The charging system from the alternator only needs to have about an 8 gauge cable to the fuse box, but I would just use the factory one for this.
Also you would only need a 8 gauge cable for the EPS as well.
hope this is helpfull
Rotaman
Since you are only looking to move the battery from one location in the engine bay to another, you could use all the existing wiring if you liked without any real down side.
But if you want to use 2 gauge cable I would only use this to the starter motor.
YOu can use it for the rest, but I don't think you will gain anything from using a cable that size.
I would forget about the 150amp fuse from the battery to the distribution block. - I know this sounds silly as its a safety thing, but you won't need it for this short run. The more connections you have the more likely problems you will have.
To save your self more connections, just make the distribution block and fuse holder one item.
You would only need 4 gauge cable to the fuse box and if you look closely the fuse box input terminal is already connected to a large 120amp fuse built into the box.
The charging system from the alternator only needs to have about an 8 gauge cable to the fuse box, but I would just use the factory one for this.
Also you would only need a 8 gauge cable for the EPS as well.
hope this is helpfull
Rotaman
It;s really helpful!
So correct me if i'm wrong:
BATTERY Positive----0gauge---->fuse holder, distribution block:
----4gauge---->60 amp fuse----4gauge-----> EPS
----4gauge---->100 amp fuse----4gauge----->Charging system
----4gauge---->Fuse Box
BATTERY Negative - to chassis.
1. Is it alright if i use 4 gauge everywhere after distribution block instead of the 4gauge and 8 gauge, so i don't have to order lots of different cables?
2. So you think that i don't need 0gauge from the battery to distribution block?
3. If i split the battery positive wire harness, do you think it's enough cable to reroute to the location of the washer?
4. What is better to do with all the negative cables that were routed to the negative terminal of the battery? Should i ground them to the chassis where the previous battery was installed or should i reroute them to the new location and connect to the negative terminal?
4. As for all the grounding, should i use 0 gauge?
Thanks a lot for your help, i really appreciate it as i'm not that experienced in electricity work!
Registered
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 4
From: Whangarei, New Zealand
skatephoto, are you looking at doing this work yourself?
The reason I ask this is you have just said you are not experianced in electrical work.
You will find that working with 0 gauge and 4 gauge cable is not easy if you don't have the right tools.
You may find using the 4 gauge cable for some of the things you want to use it for may be differecult.
If you are not experianced with this type of work, I suggest you find someone to help you that is, or go and find an autoelectrician.
This is not the type of modification you want to do if you are not sure what you are doing.
Rotaman
The reason I ask this is you have just said you are not experianced in electrical work.
You will find that working with 0 gauge and 4 gauge cable is not easy if you don't have the right tools.
You may find using the 4 gauge cable for some of the things you want to use it for may be differecult.
If you are not experianced with this type of work, I suggest you find someone to help you that is, or go and find an autoelectrician.
This is not the type of modification you want to do if you are not sure what you are doing.
Rotaman
Last edited by Rotaman; Mar 12, 2013 at 04:04 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Yep, i'm going to make this by myself, but i'm really into understanding the basics and then buying the right tools and then making the job.
I'll have a specialist check everything after i finish relocation. It's just about doing it right by myself and learning to do it right.
I'll have a specialist check everything after i finish relocation. It's just about doing it right by myself and learning to do it right.
skatephoto, are you looking at doing this work yourself?
The reason I ask this is you have just said you are not experianced in electrical work.
You will find that working with 0 gauge and 4 gauge cable is not easy if you don't have the right tools.
You may find using the 4 gauge cable for some of the things you want to use it for may be differecult.
If you are not experiaced with this type of work, I suggest you find someone to help you that is, or go and find an autoelectrician.
This is not the type of modification you want to do if you are not sure what you are doing.
Rotaman
The reason I ask this is you have just said you are not experianced in electrical work.
You will find that working with 0 gauge and 4 gauge cable is not easy if you don't have the right tools.
You may find using the 4 gauge cable for some of the things you want to use it for may be differecult.
If you are not experiaced with this type of work, I suggest you find someone to help you that is, or go and find an autoelectrician.
This is not the type of modification you want to do if you are not sure what you are doing.
Rotaman
Zoom Frickin Zoom
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 408
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, Fl
Rotaman, excellent addition to this thread!! Reading your posts made me go back and redo a lot of my work. It was a bit strange cutting into a perfectly good engine harness, but once you get it all separated its not really that complex. I am thinking soon this thread may need to be cleaned up to have all the pertinent information on the first page.
Registered
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 4
From: Whangarei, New Zealand
Sephitrask - Only to happy to help.
I've seen way to many mistakes made with battery wiring and car electrics as a whole.
As these cars are reasonably modern, the electronics in them will be prone to problems and in the next few years, I see there being a lot of problems with these cars, especially with bad earthing. Have a good look around your car when you pull something apart and see how many little earthing points there are.
Most of them have more then one earth cable going to them and rely on a small 6mm bolt going into areas prone for getting wet and or in areas that will build up with rust over time.
Probably some of the best advice I can give people is make sure your battery terminals are clean and clamped tight. ( If you can move your battery terminals with your hand when they have been tightened up, then they are stuffed, replace them with a better quality solid brass terminal )
Also if you are doing some work on your car and you see one of those earthing points I am talking about. Undo the bolt and clean all around it, clean the earth terminals and then put it all back together with some anti rust lubricant like CRC or WD40 etc, and be prepared to clean them every now and then, especially if you live in an area that rains and snows alot in the winter and if they put salt on the roads.
Rotaman
I've seen way to many mistakes made with battery wiring and car electrics as a whole.
As these cars are reasonably modern, the electronics in them will be prone to problems and in the next few years, I see there being a lot of problems with these cars, especially with bad earthing. Have a good look around your car when you pull something apart and see how many little earthing points there are.
Most of them have more then one earth cable going to them and rely on a small 6mm bolt going into areas prone for getting wet and or in areas that will build up with rust over time.
Probably some of the best advice I can give people is make sure your battery terminals are clean and clamped tight. ( If you can move your battery terminals with your hand when they have been tightened up, then they are stuffed, replace them with a better quality solid brass terminal )
Also if you are doing some work on your car and you see one of those earthing points I am talking about. Undo the bolt and clean all around it, clean the earth terminals and then put it all back together with some anti rust lubricant like CRC or WD40 etc, and be prepared to clean them every now and then, especially if you live in an area that rains and snows alot in the winter and if they put salt on the roads.
Rotaman
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: State of insanity
Just saw this thread and knowing its an old thread, I was wondering if any one has relocated the battery to where the windshield bottle is on passenger side on fire wall. I was thinking of doing that to open up the second cooling fan. I measured the space taken up by the windshield fluid bottle. The battery will fit and I might try it. Just wondered if any one has done tis and what there experience was and how did it work.
Thread Starter
ThEy MaDe Me Do It
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: Stump Creek, PA
Been awhile, but boy there are a lot of good installs and extra info. I do like that distribution block you use. My car had about 70k on that set up with no problems with starting or anything for that matter as bolts loosening. Running an extra ground in the back would benefit the grounding capabilities. Adding extra grounds off the engine also are a must for even more proper grounding.
When I get my next 8 I'm gonna have much cleaner wire setup running under the hood with a distribution block and a little bit different routing and connections. Battery will still be in the same place so I can carry a full size spare. Very helpful with the extra info. Thanks.
So this talk of consolidation I'm for. Just let me know what all and where. Plus this is a V1 trial like Team would put it for low cost and experimentation for the best possible setup and to share what others have also done and like. Then combining other installs together hopefully someone, or me will do a V2 lol.
When I get my next 8 I'm gonna have much cleaner wire setup running under the hood with a distribution block and a little bit different routing and connections. Battery will still be in the same place so I can carry a full size spare. Very helpful with the extra info. Thanks.
So this talk of consolidation I'm for. Just let me know what all and where. Plus this is a V1 trial like Team would put it for low cost and experimentation for the best possible setup and to share what others have also done and like. Then combining other installs together hopefully someone, or me will do a V2 lol.
Last edited by syntheticdarkness; Apr 20, 2013 at 03:09 PM.
Registered
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 128
Likes: 1
hello
i planning to use that combination! with battery in the trunk!
1.#1/0 cable from battery /fuse 150am/under the car to starter //
2. in the starter connect with oem cables to front! and in the front a fuse distribution for eps/main fuses,and charging system!
3,GROUND FROM BATTERY! TO CHASIS! REAR AND FRONT OEM GROUNDS! WITH ADITIONAL GROUNDS CHASIS TO ENGINE IN LEFTH AND RIGTH SIDE!
SOME PEOLPLE DO THAT COMBINATION?
i planning to use that combination! with battery in the trunk!
1.#1/0 cable from battery /fuse 150am/under the car to starter //
2. in the starter connect with oem cables to front! and in the front a fuse distribution for eps/main fuses,and charging system!
3,GROUND FROM BATTERY! TO CHASIS! REAR AND FRONT OEM GROUNDS! WITH ADITIONAL GROUNDS CHASIS TO ENGINE IN LEFTH AND RIGTH SIDE!
SOME PEOLPLE DO THAT COMBINATION?
Registered
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 4
From: Whangarei, New Zealand
southdakotadr8, If this is your main 12V line from your battery to your starter motor or the car itself, its certainly not what I would call good.
If you are just using this distribution block for your car stereo, then no real problem.
Have a good look at the connections on the fuse block. How easy is it for water to get to those points when you wash your car?
Those grub screw type connections are not ideal for the long term. They tend to crush the wiring and can vibrate lose over time.
The best connections are crimp and soldered in most situations.
Hope this is helpful
Rotaman
If you are just using this distribution block for your car stereo, then no real problem.
Have a good look at the connections on the fuse block. How easy is it for water to get to those points when you wash your car?
Those grub screw type connections are not ideal for the long term. They tend to crush the wiring and can vibrate lose over time.
The best connections are crimp and soldered in most situations.
Hope this is helpful
Rotaman
Last edited by Rotaman; May 19, 2016 at 04:51 AM.
addicted to this clubsite
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: sioux falls SD
southdakotadr8, If this is your main 12V line from your battery to your starter motor or the car itself, its certainly not what I would call good.
If you are just using this distribution block for your car stereo, then no real problem.
Have a good look at the connections on the fuse block. How easy is it for water to get to those points when you wash your car?
Those grub screw type connections are not idea for the long term. They tend to crush the wiring and can vibrate lose over time.
The best connections are crimp and soldered in most situations.
Hope this is helpful
Rotaman
If you are just using this distribution block for your car stereo, then no real problem.
Have a good look at the connections on the fuse block. How easy is it for water to get to those points when you wash your car?
Those grub screw type connections are not idea for the long term. They tend to crush the wiring and can vibrate lose over time.
The best connections are crimp and soldered in most situations.
Hope this is helpful
Rotaman
Thanks Rotaman, I was wondering if that may be an issue. ill heed your advice and post back with an updated solution .It is my main power 2ga line thru the firewall I have a 100am in-line fuse at the bat and I was using this terminal to distribute power to power steering, main power and starter using the existing harness and adding appropriate fuses to each 60 60 and 100. Will enclosing this fuse terminal be enough if I regularly clean the terminal?
Registered
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 4
From: Whangarei, New Zealand
Thanks Rotaman, I was wondering if that may be an issue. ill heed your advice and post back with an updated solution .It is my main power 2ga line thru the firewall I have a 100am in-line fuse at the bat and I was using this terminal to distribute power to power steering, main power and starter using the existing harness and adding appropriate fuses to each 60 60 and 100. Will enclosing this fuse terminal be enough if I regularly clean the terminal?
Rotaman
Question about the factory negative terminal. It has a chassis ground, cooling fan ground, and one I don't know. Is it really OK to just ground these out to the frame? Wasn't sure why Mazda grounded them out to the battery.
Registered
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 266
Likes: 8
So I am going to be moving the battery to the trunk and am curious what your opinion on this setup would be.
So, quality 2 ga from battery positive to under hood. Curcuit breaker off the battery ( JL 80 amp? I figure JL Audio would be decent quality but the biggest they have is 80, no 100). As far as when the positive gets to the bay, a fused splitter for each peice that needs juice.
The real question I have is for the grounds. 2ga aswell, one right off the battery to the trunk somewheres. But I took out my battery box today and noticed the front support member directly below it. 1 of the 3 factory grounds goes to it. Do you see any issues with grounding all if them to that member?
Also, is 80amp too small? No sound system or anything like that.
So, quality 2 ga from battery positive to under hood. Curcuit breaker off the battery ( JL 80 amp? I figure JL Audio would be decent quality but the biggest they have is 80, no 100). As far as when the positive gets to the bay, a fused splitter for each peice that needs juice.
The real question I have is for the grounds. 2ga aswell, one right off the battery to the trunk somewheres. But I took out my battery box today and noticed the front support member directly below it. 1 of the 3 factory grounds goes to it. Do you see any issues with grounding all if them to that member?
Also, is 80amp too small? No sound system or anything like that.
So I am going to be moving the battery to the trunk and am curious what your opinion on this setup would be.
So, quality 2 ga from battery positive to under hood. Curcuit breaker off the battery ( JL 80 amp? I figure JL Audio would be decent quality but the biggest they have is 80, no 100). As far as when the positive gets to the bay, a fused splitter for each peice that needs juice.
The real question I have is for the grounds. 2ga aswell, one right off the battery to the trunk somewheres. But I took out my battery box today and noticed the front support member directly below it. 1 of the 3 factory grounds goes to it. Do you see any issues with grounding all if them to that member?
Also, is 80amp too small? No sound system or anything like that.
So, quality 2 ga from battery positive to under hood. Curcuit breaker off the battery ( JL 80 amp? I figure JL Audio would be decent quality but the biggest they have is 80, no 100). As far as when the positive gets to the bay, a fused splitter for each peice that needs juice.
The real question I have is for the grounds. 2ga aswell, one right off the battery to the trunk somewheres. But I took out my battery box today and noticed the front support member directly below it. 1 of the 3 factory grounds goes to it. Do you see any issues with grounding all if them to that member?
Also, is 80amp too small? No sound system or anything like that.
80 amp is too small. the starter will draw too much for that to be reliable. 100Amp should work...but basically the OEM fuse is 120Amp....should stay above that. I have a 150Amp slo blow breaker on mine....
You really need the thing to blow if you have a short in the main feed wire...and it will blow 150Amp easily
Don't go too small with the battery...there are issues with a small battery that likely are due to the power steering draw
I'd just ground it to the frame in the back....you can run a bigger ground from the frame to engine. If you are worried about how good it is....check out the resistance.from the motor to the battery and it will give you an idea how it is working
