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-   -   DIY: Air intake window (https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-air-intake-window-257372/)

PowerBound 03-08-2015 08:47 PM

DIY: Air intake window
 
5 Attachment(s)
This is only a "how to" If you want to argue my use of the cone filter do it here.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ication-43636/

This is only a "how to" If you want to argue the AIR INTAKE WINDOW do it here.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aft...ke-pics-42631/

In the pictures you will see a cone filter inside my intake. You may choose for yourself what you would like to do. This window modification works perfect with stock or cone set up. This modification is for looks only and has no performance benefits.

The intake should be seeled at some point, otherwise the intake can suck air between the plexiglass and the air box, also it can suck in contaminated air and water.

The finished intake

Attachment 208469

What you will need
Dremmel is the best tool for cutting the intake box and the plexi glass
Plexiglass - for the intake window
Screw driver - to remove intake from vehicle
Drill - to drill pilot holes in plexiglass so it doesn't crack
Drill bit and driver bit
Permanent marker - to mark the intake and plexiglass for cutting
File- used to take down the burrs from the melted plastic and smooth the edges
Straight edge - used to mark out some nice straight lines

You may or may not want to remove your air intake. I removed mine in order to get into the inside to make the cut and so I didn't cut my filter. My way of removing air intake is to unscrew and unplug MAF sensor. Unplug that emissions sensor attached to the front of the intake. Then pull that cylinder of back of the intake. I then take a pry bar and pry up on intake until it pops up. Be careful to make sure you don't damage that vacuum line on the front for the intake actuator valve.

Step 1 Marking out the stock intake air box

Use the straight edge when marking out your lines

The side lines run parallel to each other and use the existing indents in the air box for a guide.

The top line is exactly a 1/2" from the top set of indents in the air box

The bottom line uses the bottom indent as its guide

After everything is marked out on the air box go ahead and measure it. Then you need to add a 1/2" all the way around to those measurements so you can use them to mark out the plexiglass.

I don't have a picture from before I started cutting. But this picture should give you the gist of it as I only had made one cut.

Attachment 208471

Step two Making the first cut

The bigger the cutting wheel you can get for the dremmel the better. The fins on the inside of the air box make it very difficult to cut through it. I only had a very tiny wheel so I had to cut on the inside of the air box and the outside.

Making a straight cut is very very important, and for most people that can be very hard to do. You will need to hold the dremmel with both hands and use your pinky or the side of your hand as a guide. Go slow to be sure that you make a nice straight cut.

Attachment 208470

Step three Cleaning up the cuts

This is a very simple process, all you need to do it use a wood file to straighten up and clean up and edges to make everything a little bit prettier. Do the same on the plexiglass after you cut it.

Attachment 208474

Step four Attaching the plexiglass

For this step I lay the plexiglass in place where I want it.

I then take the cordless drill with a drill bit slightly smaller then the self tappers and drill a hole in the first corner. Right through the plexiglass and the air box.

I then attach a screw driver head to drill and slowly screw in the self tapper. Be very careful, too much torque will crack the plexiglass

Then switch back to the drill bit and hold plexiglass in place and drill out the rest of the holes you want to secure it down.

You will then need to attach screw bit again and back the self tapper back out and make sure there are no pieces of plastic or anything under the plexiglass.

Once the plexiglass and area under neath it clear you can screw the plexiglass down to the air intake.

This doesn't make a complete water proof seal. If you want to completely seel you can use some sort of gasket maker or even use double sided weather stripping.

Attachment 208472

Obviously four screws wasn't enough

So I did add two more screws, which isn't enough still for this thin of glass, it flexes really easy. I may add a few more.

PowerBound 03-08-2015 08:55 PM

You can use a stock filter or a cone filter.

If your having issues getting your cone filter to fit you may have to take and grind out some of the fins inside the air intake. I did this to mine, and now mine closes and fits together perfect.

PowerBound 03-08-2015 08:56 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Water didn't get inside her. But I would still recommend seeling it with weather stripping.

Attachment 208475

paimon.soror 03-08-2015 08:57 PM

1. Let me start by saying this mod will not be very well received here.

2. There is one VERY important concept that was missed when adding a cone filter into the filter box. Take a look at the Racing Beat (heck, take a look at the OEM design) to realize the flaw in your design. It will become far more apparent when you monitor your fuel trims and air flow rate.

3. Acrylic and plastic do not make for a tight seal. Something interesting happens inside of that intake box during load that your modification doesn't allow to properly occur...it isn't just about sealing from water.

RIWWP 03-08-2015 08:58 PM

I will move this to the DIY section once you give me a more appropriate title for the thread. As in, it needs to be descriptive, rule #14 says that people shouldn't have to open the thread to know what it's about.



But yes, Paimon is right. There are some engineering flaws here that are hurting the performance, not helping.

PowerBound 03-08-2015 09:07 PM


Originally Posted by paimon.soror (Post 4670136)
1. Let me start by saying this mod will not be very well received here.

2. There is one VERY important concept that was missed when adding a cone filter into the filter box. Take a look at the Racing Beat (heck, take a look at the OEM design) to realize the flaw in your design. It will become far more apparent when you monitor your fuel trims and air flow rate.

3. Acrylic and plastic do not make for a tight seal. Something interesting happens inside of that intake box during load that your modification doesn't allow to properly occur...it isn't just about sealing from water.


I said you should seel the box. Water being a huge issue when washing unser the hood. I figured the air seal would have been more of common sense.

I said you can leave it entirely stock inside it as well

Also this was already done a very long time ago and everyone that did it reported zero issues with theirs.

Also the cone filter inside the stock box is a very common modification

PowerBound 03-08-2015 09:08 PM


Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4670137)
I will move this to the DIY section once you give me a more appropriate title for the thread. As in, it needs to be descriptive, rule #14 says that people shouldn't have to open the thread to know what it's about.



But yes, Paimon is right. There are some engineering flaws here that are hurting the performance, not helping.

The cone filter isn't part of this modification. The cone filter was something I already did in the past. Also this isn't fore performance it's for looks. Just as well I said it could be left stock inside.

paimon.soror 03-08-2015 09:10 PM


Originally Posted by PowerBound (Post 4670141)
I said you should seel the box. Water being a huge issue when washing unser the hood. I figured the air seal would have been more of common sense.

I said you can leave it entirely stock inside it as well

Also this was already done a very long time ago and everyone that did it reported zero issues with theirs.

Also the cone filter inside the stock box is a very common modification

To each his own, but 'common' doesn't always mean 'correct' or 'helpful'. Actually with this car, you will find 'common' typically means 'against good judgement'

PowerBound 03-08-2015 09:19 PM


Originally Posted by paimon.soror (Post 4670146)
To each his own, but 'common' doesn't always mean 'correct' or 'helpful'. Actually with this car, you will find 'common' typically means 'against good judgement'

True but I'm not claiming any gains whatsoever on it, I don't think I have seen anyone claim gains. But I also haven't seen dyno charts saying that a cone inside the stock takes away power either.

I'll never claim gains on a rotary, with around 70% thermal efficiency it's almost impossible to make a bunch of power naturally aspirated. Where most piston engines are between 25-35% thermal efficient.

PowerBound 03-08-2015 09:24 PM


Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4670137)
I will move this to the DIY section once you give me a more appropriate title for the thread. As in, it needs to be descriptive, rule #14 says that people shouldn't have to open the thread to know what it's about.



But yes, Paimon is right. There are some engineering flaws here that are hurting the performance, not helping.

Is there anyway to make my pictures work again or do I have to redo them?

RIWWP 03-08-2015 09:33 PM

The DIY section has hot-linking images from outside sources turned off, and have always had it that way. This is done to encourage people to attach the images directly, since eventually other hosting locations go dead, effectively disabling the entire DIY thread.

PowerBound 03-08-2015 09:54 PM


Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4670154)
The DIY section has hot-linking images from outside sources turned off, and have always had it that way. This is done to encourage people to attach the images directly, since eventually other hosting locations go dead, effectively disabling the entire DIY thread.



Well they were directly uploaded to the forum lol they didn't become hot linked until the thread got moved.

No big deal I'll log on tomorrow and redo them. Have a good night everyone.

RIWWP 03-08-2015 09:57 PM

Ah, hmm. Probably an unintended side effect of the new image uploader that the forum owners implemented recently. Sorry about that.

PowerBound 03-08-2015 10:12 PM


Originally Posted by RIWWP (Post 4670161)
Ah, hmm. Probably an unintended side effect of the new image uploader that the forum owners implemented recently. Sorry about that.

No big deal just a little extra work

9krpmrx8 03-08-2015 10:24 PM

More dirt in your engine and zero performance gain.

PowerBound 03-08-2015 11:22 PM


Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 (Post 4670165)
More dirt in your engine and zero performance gain.

Nobody claimed performance increase. More dirt in the engine would be a opinion. The filter would have to be proven to filter less then oem. Also when sealed it wouldn't be exposed to any more contaminates then it was before I put the window in.

If people would use their beloved search, they could go to the original threads on the cone filter inside the stock air box and the intake window and argue all they want. There is page after page of information, including fuel trims and air temperature readings.

9krpmrx8 03-08-2015 11:28 PM

It's not an opinion. It is a cheap ass high flow filter so it will not filter nearly as well as an OEM one because not even the high end high flow filters can filter anywhere near as well as the OEM style "paper" filters. And the funnel and screens serve a purpose, I hope you didn't delete any screens.

As for the window, well if you think it looks cool that is fine. But after a year in the engine bay of a rotary we shall see.

TeamRX8 03-09-2015 02:40 AM

I haven't run screens for years ... many years ....

PowerBound 03-09-2015 08:25 AM


Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 (Post 4670172)
It's not an opinion. It is a cheap ass high flow filter so it will not filter nearly as well as an OEM one because not even the high end high flow filters can filter anywhere near as well as the OEM style "paper" filters. And the funnel and screens serve a purpose, I hope you didn't delete any screens.

As for the window, well if you think it looks cool that is fine. But after a year in the engine bay of a rotary we shall see.

Proof is proof until they compare this exact filter to oem, there is none.

Also for like the 4th time I will say it again. Read the write up it says you can keep everything stock inside the box as well.

PowerBound 03-09-2015 08:33 AM


Originally Posted by TeamRX8 (Post 4670187)
I haven't run screens for years ... many years ....

I don't run the screens on anything. People have reported that when using the cone filter and no screens they have no idle issues. Where s stock filter with both screens gone some have said they got a bad idle right after taking them out.

PowerBound 03-09-2015 10:03 AM

Pictures of one that others have done
 
2 Attachment(s)
I really like the Rotor sticker on the one:ylsuper:

Attachment 208476

Attachment 208477

9krpmrx8 03-09-2015 10:16 AM


Originally Posted by TeamRX8 (Post 4670187)
I haven't run screens for years ... many years ....


Right but you don't have a stock intake and you are tuned.


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