Turbo, Gauge Questions
 

Hey guys, here in the next month or so Im going to be getting the Greddy turbo but was wondering what all gauges to buy and also a good controller.

Boost, AFR, EGT, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Oil Temp..Do I need all these ? Car will be looking like a spaceship lol..Anyways later on I believe Imma update the fuel pump and get the interceptor x and maybe a few more thangs. Hows the greddy intercooler ?

Please people no other turbo recomendations lol everypost Ive looked at tonight trying to find out about gauges Ive seen them lol..cant afford the others lol, although I do like the esmeril alot. Anyways any help would be much appreciated, thanks!

when i was going to put on a turbo i got boost, afr, and oil temp

i like boost and afr, but you should definitively get a boost controller, and that will be able to read out boost numbers to you, so if you're short on cash, skip the boost and just get the controller and an afr gauge.

I use the aem uego, people also like innovative's stuff.

why are you getting a Greddy??? haha, just kidding! :)

AFR and Boost are most definitely your friends. Either oil temp or oil pressure should be in there as well.
Have you decided where to mount the gauges? Lotek pod or RB pod should do the trick

Funny ..... your handle is gauge , but yet you know nothing.

Try a search on gauges. Racing Beat has a nice set up.

Here is a question guys out there who have turbos anyone I have my gauges attaches to the dash but was unable to find a pods that will work for me I have a navigation in the dash. Anyone have any ideas? I know the A-pillar has an airbag anyone else have ideas?
D.

no airbag in that pillar. Racing beat gauge pod replaces your ash tray.

I'm custom making one. Will post pics when its further along, right now its still in fiberglass and I've been too lazy to get into my 5 degree garage to work on it.

The RB ashtray one is deff the one Im thinkin of getting. I was thinkin of putting boost, afr, and egt in the RB pod. Sound good? Isnt the EGT an important gauge? Anyways i would really like to buy 3 . either that or oil temp.



My name Gauge has nothing to do with cars or gauges, its a nickname since I was knee high.Ironic maybe..

http://japanparts.com/images/ImageFr...base=1&no=5721

This one is by knight sports, found it on japanparts.com bit expensive but IMO it's sick as hell.

you dont really need a egt gauge nor an oil pressure one---boost, a/f wide band, water and oil temps are my choice.
oldscdragger

Good choice.

Just been going through all this also and after some research on here decided :

Water temp not essential - we have one already - not ideal but it will still warn you of overtemp
Oil pressure not essential - we have one already - again not that good but it will warn if no pressure is there which is the most important thing .

RB gauge pod (lotek is no good for RHD vehicle)
AEM boost gauge/controller - good value for money because it is a gauge + controller and will mount in gauge pod (unlike the greddy profec)
AEM UEGO air/fuel - looks cool
Oil temp - fitting a turbo is not only putting engine under additional stress but also uses oil to cool it so oil temp would be my pick for next most important

does the stock gauge really react fast enough ?

good question - anyone know ?

NO! get a coolant temp gauge--if your coolant goes to 240F shut the engine down--the stock gauge is useless. The engine is also not warmed up properly when the stock gauge says it is.
ODi

^^^ I concur!

Watching my gauges and comparing them to the temp gauge has been quite interesting. I've had my coolants over 220 degrees and the needle is in the same spot as if they were 160.

So basiclly just get most of the gauges I listed..

depends on what you are going to do with the car.

If you just plan on daily drive then I would just get the AFR and a boost controller.

Buy one of these and be done with all the clutter.

http://www.zeitronix.com/

Yeah it will be a daily driver although still not driven much . Will prolly be tooken to the track to run a few 1/8's maybe every now and then.

you mean taked don't you ? :lol:

If you had to choose between water & oil temp gauges which would you go for ....

Dude... :banghead:

The water temp gauge is useless... Once it starts to climb your engine is already on its way out... A real water temp gauge is a must. I actually like the scangauge. It's only drawback is no alarm feature.

The oil pressure gauge in the dash is just for show. It does not even connect to a sensor...

west palm beach????? anything to do with efidude?

cool stuff..

beers :beer:

as to the rest,

wide band, boost, oil temp..

the rest with a hymee scan tool. or any obd2 device..


beers :beer:

really - how do you know this ?

are you sure about that ?

EFIDUDE? Not sure who that is

Zietronix is pretty popular with the DSM and EVO guys. I had one in my EVO and loved it. Great for datalogging too.

looks like really cool stuff,

just the flash tuning bang went off last night..

not sure if your guy was involved with it.. :)

beers :beer:

Naah a guy I know over at TTP Engineering turned me on to this product a few years back. Its a great set up. I have a bunch of gauges in my evo and honestly it clutters up the inside of the car. I went with a cleaner look when I got my ZT2.

It's only discussed in every single gauge thread, lol... Driving in this morning I've paid extra attention and the stock water temp gauge settles as soon as you reach 157*F then does not move at all. I have seen my car go to 210*F with the stock needle still in the same place.


Yes

I was meaning - how do you know the engine will blow before the guage moves ? How many cases do you know of where this has happened ?
Pretty much all modern OEM temp gauges do the same thing - and there is a reason for it . Aside from the extra room a proper gauge would take up , if there was a gauge that gave a true reading the average joe would keep complaining about how it was all over the place . I think you will find the needle WILL move before the motor gets to dangerously high temps - it is just that very few of us have ever had the motor that hot .

With regard to the oil press gauge - you have me intrigued about that . Are you sure there is not a pressure switch somewhere on the engine that just sends a on/off signal to the gauge ?

If you can imagine what an engineering design team would want of the OEM gauges you can see why they designed them the way they do .
design criteria
Water temp : OK people we need a gauge that fits this little area here and for f**ks sake make it so that it just stays in one position once the engine is warmed up otherwise there will be panic amongst the masses . Just make sure the bloody thing warns people if the motor gets hot enough to blow up .
Oil pressure :OK people we need a gauge that fits this little area here and for f**ks sake make it so that it just stays in one position once the engine is running otherwise there will be panic amongst the masses . Just make sure the bloody thing warns people if there is no oil pressure at all.

Good points on the water temp. I'm not sure what temperature it starts to move at exactly but I have heard several people say that by the time it moves you're running way too hot. Maybe MM can comment on this, IIRC one of this rebuilds was due to overheating.

For the oil pressure - funny thing is, my gauge DOES move around, seemingly at random. There was a thread somewhere here on trying to make the OEM gauge into a real functional gauge...

at 240 degrees F the water temp doesn't move.

Thanks! At that temp some corrective action is necessary (which of course won't happen if you don't know the real temps :eyetwitch )

Well I agree - that is definately where you should see something - how did you test this Static ?

I was on the track. It was getting towards the upper 90s ambient and I was watching my temps pretty closely. Water temp just kept rising with the stock radiator it was 220-230 and I was still running it Then one lap I suck some air because I was getting low on gas and I look down and its brimming 235 on its way up. No coolant lights or anything. I put it in 6th after that and took a few cooldown laps and called it a day.

But I've never really gone above 220 on the street or autox. So unless you plan on hammering it for a while on the track you could probably get away with no temp gauge.

with the stock water pump, I saw 219 on an agressive canyon run. Stock needle hadn't moved at all.

thing is the fans don't come on full till 214 anyway so you would have to think a few degrees above that would be ok for the motor . Otherwise Mazda would have set them to come on at a lower temp .
Maybe - just maybe - Mazda did a bit of R&D on this ......

I wasn't worried about the temps, just pointing out that the OEM gauge isn't very quick to react to temp changes.

Needle does not move at all (on my car) from 155 degrees to 220. At best I'd call it "semi-functional"

the again, mazda didnt put turbos on the 8 either ;) a good temp gauge is really good insurance...

The fans don't come on until 214 F on the water temp? Mine come on lower than this, at least according to the scangauge readings.

I think one fan comes on at 98C and the other at 101C (214F) - if my memory serves me .
Unless of course you have the Mazsport fan mod .

I guess Im going with the RB ashtray kit for $450 but would like to put the aem boost/controller & the aem afr in the a-pillar..Ive been searching on here all night and google..and cant find any a-pillar pods for the 8 besides the carbontrix for $250. Does anyone even make a 2pod for the a-pillar on the 8 ?

i just want to let you know that i am trying to put 3 AEM gauges (AFR, truboost, oil temp). it has a problem with the third gauge. it doesn't fit due to the big face of AEM gauges. so, i advice you to buy autometer if you want to buy RB pod. just some advice before you are in my situation. no i have to modify it. i will take a pic soon to let you see it.
steven

Thanks but Im buying the complete RB ashtray kit with thier gauges, Im wanting to put the AEM's on the pillar.