^Did you try it?

yes, cat temp works awesome.

the numbers are a bit different:

is actually:

1st param: 07e0013c
2nd param:0441053c0000
3rd param: 2810
4th param: 0001000affd8

cause there's 4 screens not 3.

cat temp is listed at 850-950 F range when I drove around this morning.

Yeah these work awesome! Thanks guys. How the hell do you figure this crap out anyway? lol

Hmmmmm............I check this tomorrow with my new PLX devices gauge and see what it says because I think it reads it straight up. I still have my Scangauge II but am either going to sell it or pop it in my daughters car. Think I can get at least one O2 reading as well.

Ooops youre right.Glad you figured it out.

Not the best quality but here is how I mounted mine.
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...14b3133464.jpg

Looks pretty neat. I might have to jump on this.

Easier to use than teh SAFC for the FC's! :(

I have it mounted there because I don't need to see the lower part of the tach anyway. It does not touch the cluster and is easily removable via the really good hobby shop velcro. I have a lot of experience with the Apexi products and yes they are a pain.

K this is my first time buying one. I got mine used. What do I use to mount it? :eyetwitch

Well...............when new it comes with Velcro strips. Not saying that is the best to use, but it does work.

It came with velcro but I went to Hobby Lobby and bought some professional grade velcro and fit snug as a bug in a rug. I have removed it many times to check CEL's at meets and such and it works great. I just think up on the dash is too inviting.

Normal people (non car enthusiasts) think its stock. When I had the color blue everyone thought it was a boost controller, haha.

The way I have it mounted blocks the lower part of the tach but I watch the Scanguage most of the time anyway unless I'm at the track.

I bought a scangaugeII off a member on here in the FS section. But I placed my order for the cord from the company in AZ and got that yesterday. It came with 2 small snabs of velcro. So I was just making shure thats what I use lol kinda getto but oh well. If it works it works :)

if you intend to move/remove it on any kind of regular basis, i would reccomend at least better velcro. i used what came with it and its sturdy, but if you try to move it to plug into a friends car or something, the glue pulls right off the velcro

^............Yep, your right about that. Unless you actually get something to hold the bottom down like a flathead or something...while you slowly pull the velcro apart. I wanted to be able to move it to either one of my daughters cars to check them out, so I kinda learned how to peel it loose without it coming off the dash. But now that I have the gauge pod and PLX DM-100 installed, I don't have to worry about it....... although I do retain the Scangauge II for the purposes above.

Anyone has compare the Water Temp reading from ScanGauge with other water temp gauge (defi)?

Since the stock water temp sensor is at/near water pump, but those add-on water temp gauge with sensor fixed on radiator hose.

will the readings different?

Hey guys, can you post your average voltage readings. I have been having alternator issues and they are saying my alternator is fine and I have a new battery but my readings are now in the mid to upper 13's and I used to get from lower 14's to mid 14's at cruising speeds at 3k+ rpms. Also if you could list your Voltage at idle that would be great too.

Bump.

Well 9K, my volts are around 14-14.2 driving, and around 13.8-14 just at idle.

Thanks man. I just need some data before I fork over the cash for a brand new alternator. I have had my stocker rebuilt twice and I am just not that confident about it.

No problem. The only thing I got is the red top, and relocated the battery to the trunk.

I need to relocate my battery. What relocation kit did you use?

To bad you didn't have a franks like we do in PA, they have lifetime warrenty on just about anything they have and the prices are super cheap, so no matter how many times it would go bad you can get it replaced and no matter how long you have it. Sometimes they might not have a part though.

I did the relocation kit myself to the trunk using 2 ga wire, 2 100 amp fuses, 1 60 amp fuse, and a battery tie down box sealed. I got pictures of the whole process, but didn't put them on, but I got pictures of the engine compartment without the battery in it in my album. Might make a diy thread if that's a good idea.

That would be a great idea. I'll check your pics.

DIY would be great on where you ran the cables and how you secured the box.