I used a large vise grip (pipe fitting design) with a towel wrapped around the alternator's pulley to keep it from spinning...... then used a large socket wrench on the alternator's nut.
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yes that is true an impact is NOT NEEDED, but recomended. personal prefferance. I think the 1 1/2 seconds it takes with an impact is worth the removing of the intake.... but again thats all up to you.
some people chose the wrench and the trying to hold it from spinning. I tried that, didnt like the way it was going so I just removed the intake. :) |
If you look above I say the easiest way is to use an impact wrench not that it is necessary ;)
Good to hear other options. I had heard of one person that marred the alt pulley by putting a vice grip on it without any protection like a towel. |
I know... I was simply agreeing with you. :) :) :)
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but then again, Speed's intake was rediculously easy to pull out....mine on the other hand was a pain in the rear. We ended up removing the entire alternator and removing the nut once we had the entire peice on the ground. Otherwise, I would have had to remove my front bumper, and front bumper rebar to remove the Racing Beat CAI, and then once that was removed, reach inside the Racing Beat Intake box to remove the bolts holding it to the frame...oh forget it...it was easier to remove the darn alternator. For those with Racing Beat intakes, try and get around the airbox removal.
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Forgot about the RB intake :rofl:
Wrench would be easier by far in that case. :evil_laug |
Can someone confirm about the blinking of electronics on our car cause by installing the Pulley kit?
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Originally Posted by theboy
Can someone confirm about the blinking of electronics on our car cause by installing the Pulley kit?
I upgraded my battery a while back, but I still have the original starter and alternator. So for me, there are no issues. - Cesar - |
no issue for me either. I have just purchased a new battery as well, but just the cheapy from Autozone.
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Thanks
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Originally Posted by cesaralaniz
I have the Unorthodox pulleys, and I have not had any problems w/ electronics.
I upgraded my battery a while back, but I still have the original starter and alternator. So for me, there are no issues. - Cesar - |
i think you have to reset the ecentric shaft sensor...
sticky.. beers :beer: |
Battery upgrade is not necessary if a person gets the UR pullies. A bit deceiving how it was mentioned. I would have thought someone had a problem with the charging system the way that was mentioned.
I have not heard of any charging issues with the UR pullies. No problems in the cold either ;). |
Originally Posted by theboy
u mean u need to upgrade your baterry after installation? how come?
I upgraded the battery because my lights would dim when the bass would hit. (I have sub/amp in the trunk). The battery upgrade had nothing to do with the pulleys. It was done before I got the pulleys. |
and I bought a new battery because I drained mine severely at a drive in, and just got tired of trying to charge the OEM battery back to life...
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Originally Posted by swoope
i think you have to reset the ecentric shaft sensor...
sticky.. beers :beer: I assume you are talking about the flashing CEL? And how do you reset the sensor?? Disconnect the battery? |
Originally Posted by rxeightr
swoope -
I assume you are talking about the flashing CEL? And how do you reset the sensor?? Disconnect the battery? flashing cel is a missfire... the e shaft reset i dont know off of my head... i have not done it... check the stickys, it is somewhere. or someone will answer soon.. beers :beer: |
Originally Posted by swoope
no,
flashing cel is a missfire... the e shaft reset i dont know off of my head... i have not done it... check the stickys, it is somewhere. or someone will answer soon.. beers :beer: Turn key to the run position Tap brake pedal 20 times or until the oil pressure gauge does a sweep |
Here is the issue I have since installing my Agency Crank Underdrive Pulley --
Flashing CEL above 4200 rpms, regardless of what gear. The sCANalyser has shown a P0300 & P0302 Solid CEL. After installing the pulley, I did not do anything but drive it....... no attempts to clear memory. Since the 1st flashing CEL I have cleared the memory by doing the brake pedal thing & the ODO reset thing. Neither are helping to stop the flashing CEL above 4200 rpms. I would like y'alls advice on how to get rid of the flashing CEL's. |
What are those CEL's. (P0300 & P0302)? What, if anything, have you received on feedback from Agency Power? Have you attempted to email them or get technical support? They may have received calls from other 8 owners and may have a quick solution or response for you.
I have never seen a CEL on my vehicle, but can imagine the frustration of having to deal with them. No CEL's with the Unorthodox Set. |
P0300 Misfire P0302 Rear rotor misfire
Eccentric shaft position sensor malfunction |
Visually inspect the position of the sensor and teeth of the pulse wheel.
Could be wrong installation. |
You have to reset the DCT try again.
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If the torrington bearing is messed up.
Go to mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm |
Originally Posted by Razz1
Visually inspect the position of the sensor and teeth of the pulse wheel.
Could be wrong installation. The ECU has to have the following done after the pulley install: Negative terminal disconnected from battery. Plug back in after stepping on the brakes for 10 seconds (this drains any sitting energy). Excentric shaft reset via the brake pedal 20 tap after turning to the run position. Then take it easy on the car for a week so the ECU can learn the differences the pulleys make. |
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