Product Feeler: Battery Relocation Kit
I’ve come to realize there aren’t many options when it comes to relocating the battery so I made one of my own.
My goals were the following:
Current Specs:
Here are some pics. Please keep in mind that this is my one and only prototype. I was designing and building at the same time so I made a few mistakes along the way. If you see an extra hole or a bent corner, something off center -- just ignore it. The finished product will be much more civilized :) I have the time and resources to make more of these if anyone is interested. Let me know and we'll start a list for a group buy! Now i'm going to go for a drive because my car hasn't been driven in about 3 weeks, and THAT is a travesty... http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/3803/...elocation1.jpg P.S. – the J-hooks will be seated elsewhere; my J-hooks were too short to put at a diagonal. http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2503/p1013363.jpg Pricing estimated at $199+shipping/paypal Will set up official group buy if more than 10 people are on this list: 1. L337fpc 2. Zelse 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. |
That looks pretty nice to me. Can you PM me a ballpark price on what you think they will cost if you pursue it?
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Looks nice. Any way to get all those wires under the panel though? Maybe swing the terminal connections to the side of the battery and tuck everything neatly under?
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Originally Posted by TheWulf
(Post 2995123)
Looks nice. Any way to get all those wires under the panel though? Maybe swing the terminal connections to the side of the battery and tuck everything neatly under?
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Originally Posted by j8635621
(Post 2995109)
That looks pretty nice to me. Can you PM me a ballpark price on what you think they will cost if you pursue it?
Feel free to drop hints though :lol2: |
Your engine compartment look so clean! How do you clean your engine? And how do you keep it so clean? By the way, that is a nice battery box.
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Look at all that space for a turbo ;)
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Originally Posted by Luckycat
(Post 2995310)
Your engine compartment look so clean! How do you clean your engine? And how do you keep it so clean? By the way, that is a nice battery box.
Originally Posted by pdxhak
(Post 2995352)
Look at all that space for a turbo ;)
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great idea. perhaps some sort of etched on thing.. rx8 / se3p ... maybee an embossed look? maybe a version that moves the battery over to the fuse box?
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Very interested...
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Interested if it's not too expensive.
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I'd have to a see picture from the front but it looks like it won't fit cars with a GReddy kit (or most FI kits, certainly front-mount kits as well) because the charge pipes needs to run in that area.
I put my battery in the trunk. $15 plastic box from AutoZone, some 1/0 gauge power cable, a 4g ground, some terminals, and Home Depot metal. I think it cost me around $100 bucks or less. |
Success!
I was able to re-route the wires so they aren't as much of an eyesore. It will take a little effort on your part (although pretty simple) but i think it's worth it.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/139/p1013360.jpg http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2503/p1013363.jpg |
Originally Posted by chickenwafer
(Post 2995693)
I'd have to a see picture from the front but it looks like it won't fit cars with a GReddy kit (or most FI kits, certainly front-mount kits as well) because the charge pipes needs to run in that area.
I put my battery in the trunk. $15 plastic box from AutoZone, some 1/0 gauge power cable, a 4g ground, some terminals, and Home Depot metal. I think it cost me around $100 bucks or less. It might work with some FI. I could imagine more so on the SC side than the turbo side :dunno: |
i like. i'll be a guinea pig too. ;)
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how much for just the intake tray?
btw: i think you have the coupler where the reducer hose goes and vice versus on your intake. i could be wrong though. |
I like it, I was actually trying to lay out ideas for something like this the other day
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I did a similar experiament some times back. The pic showed is the material and not yet install.
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/SP_A0283.jpg I don't understand why you make the plate to resist the air flow of the fans, as the original design did. When the fan is on on during idling, due to the space is tight, some hot air will be forced to pass through the radiator sponge and suck back by the rad fan(s). So, when you sprint for a while and meet some traffic jam or something that cause you stop the car, the temperature will raise quite fast. And, the gab around the coolant tank must be covered, because the PCM box has no seal and the hot air will make the PCM + ABS control unit even hotter, and also the AEM alum tubes. I would say the battery location is not bad but the battery itself cost me a bomb at my place. I just use a stand 60amp and put it at the water fluid area, where the original water tank had to be sacrificed and replaced with a modified breather tank. Just FYI, the metal plate surface temperature on my car average about 82 celcius and due to the material I use is not alum or ss, the heat transfer is not that great, so won't feel the heat on the top so much. Rotor housing outer surface temperature average about 82-84 during cruising at 120km/h (stop the car, open the bonnet and quickly get the reading) and 89-94 celcius 160-180km/h @ about 200km. Ambient temp = 30-32 celcius (from noon to evening). To protect the coil and the aircond pump, I recommend you to make some plate that with curved or diamond edge to block & divert the hot air away. If you are living in a country that will never have real summer, then your current ideal might be almost perfect, except need to seal off the PCM box. |
Forgot to add, I did paint several type of car paint on the plate. Including those 'chrome' paint. All survived.
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So clean,, Ill be your SC guinea pig.... One criticism, round those corners off some,, ,maybe 1/4-1/2" radius or something...
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Sorry, the PCM box does have seal :) Maybe the heat just went in to mine due to the extra wire that I hooked on :)
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the tray really looks nice. however, with the battery located like that you could really increase the airflow and efficiency of the radiator by not having it there.
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Looks like the weak point is where the sheet metal bolts to the battery box.
Sure hope it is strong enough and doest crack. Have you tried it at the track? rOtor: The tray is in a good position, as it forces the the air into the radiator. I may be interested. |
Originally Posted by dondo
(Post 2996043)
i like. i'll be a guinea pig too. ;)
Originally Posted by myriadshalaks
(Post 2996065)
how much for just the intake tray?
btw: i think you have the coupler where the reducer hose goes and vice versus on your intake. i could be wrong though. As for the intake i'll check it. It could be wrong but i'm not sure how there is a difference between three identical intake ports.
Originally Posted by Rotr8
(Post 2996239)
So clean,, Ill be your SC guinea pig.... One criticism, round those corners off some,, ,maybe 1/4-1/2" radius or something...
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Originally Posted by Razz1
(Post 2996606)
rOtor: The tray is in a good position, as it forces the the air into the radiator.
Originally Posted by Razz1
(Post 2996606)
Looks like the weak point is where the sheet metal bolts to the battery box.
Sure hope it is strong enough and doest crack. Have you tried it at the track? rOtor: The tray is in a good position, as it forces the the air into the radiator. I may be interested. The area you mentioned is the weak point but it's not that weak. In my original design i had a bracket attach to where the side of the battery box bolted but it was pretty difficult to replicate when i was actually making it. I might try again but the sheet aluminum is pretty sturdy as is. |
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