Pointers on installing Midpipe?
 

Well tomorrow im installing the rp midpipe to go along with my B&B exhaust. After hearing flyboi's exhaust clip I just had to have this setup, lol. I wanted to know if its pretty straight foward, and if theres anything I should know. Installing the exhaust was a peice of cake, so I hope it goes the same for the midpipe... I noticed that there are 2 bars that cross over the midpipe, can i slip the stock cat out or should I remove the bars? Any tips would be great.
Thanks in advance.

Bars......
 

It's pretty tight without removing the bars. I thought I was going to have to remove the cat-back! Eventually got it out by removing the two supports and pushing the muffler fully back in it's mounts.

Anther thing to watch is the cat bolts to the manifold from the FRONT. It looks like the bolts can be undone from the back (cat end), but they are welded to the cat. You can break something if you don't undo them correctly.

...and lastly, of course, "lefty loosey"...DOH! :rolleyes:

S

Thanks for the pointers Stealth, appreciate it.

When you install that pipe you may discover that it knocks on the floor or the cross-braces. With a little maneuvering you can minimize the noise so be patient with it. It won't look like it will hit but you'll discover it while driving over certain types of bumps. Also, get some Permatex Copper Gasket sealer and use it to seal the three-bolt connection flange and o-ring. It will prevent leaks and seizure. Next, the braided "donut" on the cat-back side of the pipe will be a bit too small to fit on the midpipe, assuming you got the 3" pipe. I used a pipe stretcher to expand the donut a little to get it to fit the pipe but it was still tough to not ruin the donut. Last, use some Loctite Red to install the two studs on the cat-back end of the pipe so they won't back out if you decide to swap back and forth between the two pipes. Other than that, try to ignore the CEL.:)

CRH

you only have to remove the bolts on one side of the stiffening/cross braces (what you called bars) and loosen the other side, the braces then slide right off and out the way because the bolt holes are open slotted to the outside of the brace ends

technically you should install a new ring gasket that goes between the midpipe and the exhaust manifold flange. I take it Charles is proposing using the gasket sealer instead, too messy for my taste. I would also recommend using anti-sieze paste on the three threaded studs that secure the midpipe to the exhaust manifold flange. It will save you from having nut removal problems down the road. I don't agree with using loctite on the catback studs either, if anything I would use anti-sieze paste on those too, if torqued properly the nuts won't come loose, just a difference of opinion ...

You shouldn't have a CEL after you drive it awhile. One thing to do if you end up having a CEL is drive down the road and while at a constant speed around 45-60 turn the car off with it in gear and the clutch in. Then turn the key back and slowly let out the clutch. After doing this a few times my CEL went off and I havent seen it since. Oh yeah be aware that you will shoot some incredible flames. I remember the longest ones I've shot were about 4 or 5 feet long. It's a great little extra to shoot a nice flame everytime you shift at redline. ;)

The problem I had with the rear studs coming loose was that it made swaps a little more difficult. I tend to assume these days that most people with a cat-less midpipe will have to swap at least for the purpose of emissions testing. If that is not the case then the sealer and Loctite are not necessary. Either way, you'll appreciate the added power.

CRH

I installed my RP supercat today, worked on it last night for 1hr and finished up this morning. It was pretty straightforward. I haven't had a chance to test drive it yet, just started her up and idled then checked for leaks.

The weight savings is noticeable. I held one in each hand and I couldn't hold the stock one up too long. I believe somebody posted the weight of each somewhere.

I removed the 2 cross bars since it doesn't take that long and makes it easier.

I also ordered the metal gasket and new bolts from RP ($30). The old one was smashed up pretty good. Also, it didn't come with the 2 nuts for the rear studs. I broke off the ones that were welded to the stock pipe.

The stock braided donut fit perfectly onto the RP supercat. No enlarging needed.

I used the ultra copper stuff around the outside of the metal gasket, just in case. The threadlocker blue is medium strength and the nuts can still be removed if needed.

Make sure not to let the O2 sensor wire hang. It looks like it's lower than it was stock. I wrapped it around the black bracket by the connector and zip tied it.

Tell us how it feels after you drive it with the new cat.

thanks for all your help guys! let me tell you, this thing sound AWSOME/REDICULOUS! rotarymaniac-I'm not running a cat I'm running a rp midpipe along with the B&B exhaust. This thing is so loud but the sound and power gain is amazing. My friend driving behind said that it sounded like a full blown gt car. Who wants a video clip?

I'd just love to see an RX-8 shooting flames.