Hydraulic e-brake (for Rear BBK's)
 

I don't have to give up my e-brakes after all... ;) I'm very tempted to get one and try this out. Wonder if they sell a 2 piston setup for both rear wheels... Just for e-brake will do, but not for drifting, you would need 2 piston setup.

http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/im...handbrake1.jpg

http://www.radiatorswholesale.com/eb...handbrake1.jpg

https://i.ebayimg.com/10/!BdFcC2!Bmk...E,PR!~~_12.JPG

http://cflrx8club.com/images/smiles/icon_idea.gif I just thought of a better idea... I will fabricate my own system. Using exisiting e-brake lever/locking mechanism and cables. Using one of these and converting the cable to push with a lever....


http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store/imag...87_drawing.jpg

http://www.pitstopusa.com/images/WIL260-6087_9.jpg

hhhmmmmmmm i like thisss

I will post pics when I fab. the base and cable experiment. Should work great. I still haven't checked how the cable connects to the rear calipers yet.

You'll need separate e-brake calipers, which you might as well use a mechanical caliper and rework the cables of the existing e-brake

You can't just hook it up to the existing rear brake system. It will push fluid back int the master cylinder reservoir rather than engage the brakes. You can't use check valves because your brakes will never release.

i.e. fail, you're doing it wrong, etc.


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Add the ABS system in as well.
We did it on a drift car but it required a lot of work and modifcation, definitely not suitable for a street driven car.
I may have pics somewhere, let me check them out!

if you want to do it right

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...89&postcount=6

Problem is that the mechanical will not work with the traction control, or can you use both mechanical and hydraulic on that brake caliper? If you can, then that's all we would need (2 of these and minor mods) to have full working dual e-brakes + traction control / ABS..
The pistons im adding works as a check valve, when applied it pressurises the brake side and closes the master cylinder side. Only downside would be pressing (or having to press) the regular brakes while the e-brake is locked (AT cars, you might have to release e-brake, then press brake to switch from Park to Drive... ;) LOL)

it's just like OE; hydraulic for main brakes and mechanical for the e-brake, it has two hydraulic pistons though and is a fixed caliper while OE is one piston with a sliding caliper, it will take a custom mount for the caliper and also adapting the e-brake cable

I'd be interested in seeing how your system works

So that one you posted will work then.

I spoke with my buddy (he has the mill) and I still have to get together with him, he said the picture with measurements if they are real that he can start drawing in dxf? (whatever that is...) Basically it will tap into the line (individually) and when you pull the e-brake inside the cable will pull a lever that will push (instead of pulling) the remote master cylinder, which acts as a check valve closing the path to the master cylinder at front, and pressurise the brake side. My buddy said it was doable so we'll see. I still haven't gotten any big brake kit but it should work with existing system as well.

Working on that same idea, it seems to me it might make more sense to install mechanical valves in the brake lines near the rear calipers and have them actuate/release via the parking brake cables, where you pump the brake pressure up using the brake pedal and engage the valves locking the pressure on the rear calipers until the e-brake lever is released

EDIT: ok, just realized that the issue here is that it relies on your braking system to function, which means that if it fails the safety concept of an e-brake system is out the window. IMO the entire e-brake functionality must be completely separate of the regular braking system, which is probably why manufacturers use a separate mechanical e-brake system


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Essentially install drag racer style line locks, but on the rear brakes instead of the front and tie them to the e-brake instead of a pushbutton.

I can see your point about why this is a bad idea though.

Got any pics and/or links of this "lock"? Thanks.

I just helped my friend "repair" his Windows XP SP3, hopefully he will be able to start helping me on this soon. I also have a bigger project on my hands, that's why I am selling my old Turbo kit and few extras..

I just stayed at a Holiday Inn Express.

This system allows the brake system to function normal, brake fluid flows through, when pressed, works as check valve, it closes one end (master cylinder side) and pressuries the other end (brake side)

I don't know how else to explain it, and I also don't guarantee this will work, it's just a project I am going to experiment with. Just started it at a bad time, but it's on my list. Hopefully it works! I would love to have BBK on the rear and still have e-brake.

I've played with the big boys hydraulics (fighter jets and KC-135 tankers), and I understand what that device is supposed to do. You're scaring people off with the phrase "check valve", which this isn't. You're looking at what could be phrased as a "locking coupler", or a secondary master cylinder.

Full extension, it acts as a coupler, nothing more. Fluid passes freely in both directions.

Start movement in, it closes off the upstream port to the ABS / master cylinder.

Further movement inward, it functions as a piston, using the trapped fluid in the cylinder to engage the downstream brake piston and close the caliper.

It'll work to hold a race car from rolling, but I'd be hesitant to use it in a street vehicle. It would take a tandem pair to be a true "emergency brake", since you don't want to combine the rear brake hydraulic circuits and screw up traction control / ABS.

My $0.02 on the subject.

That is correct, thank you for putting it a way people understand. I do believe this will work, if used properly (example: not pressing brakes while e-brake is on) It's something you would have to learn to live with. I would only use it when parked anyways. You could also use it to drift as long as you don't use the regular brakes. If I wasn't in so many projects I probably would have started on this. I had to put a pause on it, starting a 20B teardown so it can be ported, rotors balanced, and rebuilt with MT (metal technology) apex seals... :) 800+ hp capable rebuild.

+1 for you if you do the DIY.

I will post pics of items and how to put it together. My buddy is the one actually fabricating the parts.

I completely forgot about this! But got bigger plate in front of me right now, but definately will look into this after my main project...

https://www.rx8club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=23514

Wouldn't be easier to just have a single-acting spring actuator at the hand lever side and a line running to another single acting spring actuator the pulls the cable on the brake side. Just have a line to each one? Then you wouldn't have to tie into the brake hydraulics.

I am replacing the rear brake calipers with big brakes that don't have e-brake.

Team had it right on post #7. A lightweight aluminum caliper with integrated mechanical e-brake would be the best way to do it. However if I remember correctly, the calipers are not readily available and then you have the whole fabrication issues.

IMHO the next best thing and a much easier option is installing the TCE rear bbk. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/rx8/kits-7/

You will get the improved mechanical advantage of larger rotors while retaining the ebrake. The only thing you dont get is the super steep price tag and the 10lb weight loss of aluminum calipers.

You dont really need a larger diameter rotor, which only adds cost and rotation mass with little-no benefit IMO. What we need is a lightweight aluminum e-brake caliper/mount to compliment the RacingBrake 2-pc OE size rotor.