how to torque exhaust spring-loaded bolts
 

I was reading an article in Sport Compact Car about adding a Megan Racing test pipe to their Project RSX Type-S and they had to cut the flex joint springs so that they would not coil-bind...

And that got me to thinking about my Greddy SP-2 install...

Is there a proper way to tighten those spring loaded bolts? I just tightened them as hard as I could, is that wrong?

I performed a search on this and nothing came up, so sorry if it has been discussed already...just link me to it.

the spec is 30-40 ft-lbs.Nut should not be hard up against the thread stop.If you tighten it this way you may get resonance and /or vibration.

My fear is that if I loosen the bolts, the flanges will leak...is this a valid concern? I'd rather have vibration than CO poisoning, no? Please shed light.

If you have the proper studs and flanges the nut will bottom where the stud threads end before the spring coil binds. If the aftermarket exhaust has thick flanges it may cause the spring to coil bind first and in that situation you'd need to shorten the spring to avoid it.

OK, I'll bite...so then how do I tell if the spring coil binds? All loops touching? Some touching?

I'll take some pics maybe and you can be the judge...

Nut threaded all the way...

Nut threaded tight enough so that I can barely turn the spring in its seat...pre-loaded?...

the second picture looks fine to me.

Off topic but your Greddy catback reduces the DIA. of your exhaust?

The first pic with the nut threaded on all the way like it's intended to be is fine. Coil bind occurs when the spring is completely collapsed to the point of acting like a solid spacer rather than a spring. As long as you can see space between the spring coils it is not binding solid.

K, thanks Team...will re-tighten this morning.

Enkei's are arriving today! Finally pulled the trigger on the RP-F1's...18 x 9.5 +45...275/35/18 Falken Azenis RT-615's. First set of aftermarket wheels I've ever purchased. :ylsuper: