Which cooling setup...
I am in the process of replacing my coolant parts to try and update/improve the cooling of my 8. I am having the water pump and thermostat replaced but as well would like to get a new radiator and fans. I have found 2 and was wanting opinions please. Here are the links to the two I am considering. I am trying to not spend a crap load here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MISHIMOTO-04...sories&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/RX8-RX-8-SE3...sories&vxp=mtr |
Dont forget the fan relay mods
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I have heard of fitment issues with the Mishimoto and the second setup doesn't have a shroud so that's a no go. I have the Mizu and like it very much.
But, check out www.sparkplugs.com if you go with the Mizu. Here is my write up on it. https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...highlight=Mizu |
9krpm, is the Mizu dual pass or single pass ?
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Originally Posted by RotaryTherapy
(Post 4167036)
9krpm, is the Mizu dual pass or single pass ?
It's a dual pass and comes with a lifetime warranty as well. |
Thnks. The top nipple thing broke off on my OE rad, didnt like the Koyo design. It was between the Ron Davis, mishimoto and now the mizu
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can't say for mishimoto or mizu but you cant go wrong with the ron davis, i have the mazda motorsports competition and fitment is spot on, they also make radiators for the speedsource cars
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Originally Posted by c0ldf1ame
(Post 4167177)
can't say for mishimoto or mizu but you cant go wrong with the ron davis, i have the mazda motorsports competition and fitment is spot on, they also make radiators for the speedsource cars
Originally Posted by Highspeed
(Post 4166900)
I am trying to not spend a crap load here.
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off topic but 9k want to sell that Ron Davis?
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Originally Posted by gregs
(Post 4167337)
off topic but 9k want to sell that Ron Davis?
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Highspeed,
didn't you say you put a trans cooler like mine on for your Auto? I've upgraded that first install to the 18,500 Derailer which mearsures 14 deg difference at operating temp on a hot day (172-158). what I also noticed is that cruising on I10 at 80 mph ( speed limit) on a cool 65 deg day the water barely opened the thermostat (running 175-177 deg). If your water temp hasn't been brought down, I don't get it. Just stack another 14,000 btu cooler on top of the 18,500, and plumb through in series. I'm not kidding, the 18,500 brought both the water and trans temp down. More cooler-more lower temp! |
I have the mishimoto AT cooler on the car. The temps came down a little but on a 60 degree day, I am still running between 195-205 for the water temp, dont remember off the top of my head what the AT was running at. I think it was 165. What is a normal operating temp for the AT and when is it too high? As for my engine cooling, I am going to have a new water pump and thermostat put on and would like to upgrade the radiator and fans. Since I have a AT cooler, I can get a manual radiator. I also have a much bigger AT cooler to put on the car from a Jimmy. He bought an RX7 that was an auto but he has converted it to a MT. It had a huge AT cooler on it and he gave it to me.
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Why upgrade the cooling system? What is the end goal?
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I am trying to get cooler temps. I do not think its normal on a 60 degree day for my car tobe running between 195-205 degrees and I am not even getting on it. When I went to the Texas 8 last year, it was in the 90's and running it hard through the canyon there, I started hitting above 235 degrees. Now, this might have been cause the AT was getting hot and since then I have installed a AT cooler, but my temp shouldnt be that high on a 60 degree day when just driving normal. Also, when I am at a light in 60 degree weather, I shouldnt be at a idle with a 210 degree engine temp.
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Originally Posted by Highspeed
(Post 4167547)
I am trying to get cooler temps. I do not think its normal on a 60 degree day for my car tobe running between 195-205 degrees and I am not even getting on it. When I went to the Texas 8 last year, it was in the 90's and running it hard through the canyon there, I started hitting above 235 degrees. Now, this might have been cause the AT was getting hot and since then I have installed a AT cooler, but my temp shouldnt be that high on a 60 degree day when just driving normal. Also, when I am at a light in 60 degree weather, I shouldnt be at a idle with a 210 degree engine temp.
A properly functioning stock cooling system should get you where you wanna be. Thermostat, water pump, coolant flush, and test the fans to insure they are working properly. You also only have one oil cooler since you have an auto. |
Thanks 9K :) I will be replacing the thermo and pump in the next month as well as having it flushed at the same time. I have one cooler yes but I am looking to change that. I have a mishimoto tranny cooler on the car now however I now have a MUCH larger one I am installing in the next month as well. So, I will be taking the smaller tranny cooler I have now, flushing it out and possibly plumbing it in as a second oil cooler. I am just trying to make sure my 8 can stand the summers we have coming as well as the driving we will be doing for the Texas 8. Last year I was overheating but that was before the tranny cooler and all.
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^
I was running my AC that day, and the water hit 220 f, and the AT 203 f. For some reason on the track without AC the water is 213 f, and the AT up to 244f ( the last few minutes ). AT temp to preserve fluid quality would be anything under 180 f. To preserve trans never hit 249 ( I hear that puts it in limp mode). My temps are definitely under control except for the track which is only a few minutes. I suspect that the excess track temps on the trans is from high G slosh, and definitely from lots of shifting. I like the track at MSR Cresson 1.7 where I slow down to 65 mph for the corner, and get back up to 90 mph which causes less shifting on the trans and less friction. |
40w8...what temp is a good temp for the tranny to be at when running it hard and shifting using the paddles since I am an auto...what temp should it never hit?
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Originally Posted by Highspeed
(Post 4168440)
40w8...what temp is a good temp for the tranny to be at when running it hard and shifting using the paddles since I am an auto...what temp should it never hit?
40w8 (REDRX3RX8) has an auto as well, but a 6 port auto. |
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^ that's cool, I will be refining my setup (if needed) to mimic that in a way. But my aluminum under tray was done right, no useless holes due to a shitty design like that one.
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
(Post 4168579)
I saw that pic on my cell phone the other day.......
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BHR Radiator?
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Oh wait. I took it. As far as the holes in back go 9k,,, I guess they (GT Spec) wanted you to be able to drain the radiator on USDM and JDM models. :wavey: :suspect: :rollingla |
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Saw that one a few months ago. It has a nice thermostat on it to keep the overcooling issue to a minimum
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I hate that you can't edit posts on the mobile site :( can't even fix spelling mistakes. And the fun autocorrect errors :D
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Originally Posted by Easy_E1
(Post 4169787)
Well now. Where have I seen that pic before?
Oh wait. I took it. As far as the holes in back go 9k,,, I guess they (GT Spec) wanted you to be able to drain the radiator on USDM and JDM models. :wavey: :suspect: :rollingla Yeah initially it only came with one hole to accommodate the JDM cars, then instead of coming up with two designs the just added a second hole. I don't get the louvers either but hey it's a lot better than the plastic crap. Mine is very light and very strong, I am pretty proud of it, the guy who made did a great job. I do need to add ductwork and a thermostat to my secondary radiator though. |
Thats a really nice set up. Thermostat with a by pass even. Reasonable price also, considering everything.
Is the fan on a thermostatic switch? I believe so? Probably has an overide also? Maybe it is tapped into the factory fan? |
Interesting part, have anyone bought this or used it?? I would like to know someone's experience with this part.
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 4169918)
Yeah initially it only came with one hole to accommodate the JDM cars, then instead of coming up with two designs the just added a second hole. I don't get the louvers either but hey it's a lot better than the plastic crap. Mine is very light and very strong, I am pretty proud of it, the guy who made did a great job. I do need to add ductwork and a thermostat to my secondary radiator though.
steven |
Originally Posted by halimsteven
(Post 4173964)
hey man, do you mind sharing with me the radiator look? i am looking for the second radiator...where do you get the stuff from?
steven Check my build thread for pics, I just used a Long brand (good OEM manufacturer) ATV radiator that I bought on Ebay new. I do recommend getting the one without a radiator cap though, mine came with it's own cap and it is fine but one without a cap is preferred, that way if it over pressurizes it only comes out one place :) This is the one I have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Engine...item3f0e84e5d6 This is the one I recommend, but not unless you are forced induction and live in a hot environment. You would probably have over cooling issues otherwise. You could always put in a bypass though for when it is not needed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Perform...item3f034e927f |
You could also buy something like this.....
http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/70297.jpg problem is by the time you buy the thermostat, undertray, and the other stuff you are over the price of the pre-made one by a mile :) |
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