Agency Power Midpipe frustration
 

first off, i searched via Google and here, and found nothing that would explain this to me.

so the other day, i excitedly placed my order for an AEM intake, Greddy SE exhaust, and AP Midpipe. They finally arrive about a week later, and open the boxes and get everything set. First, i see hardware in the Greddy box. Check. I open the AEM box. Hey! instructions! check. I get to the agency power box...what the hell? a sticker? ugh. no worries, i thought, i will just go to autozone/home depot to get the bolts. so I pick everything up and get ready to do my overhaul.

Exhaust hung easy as cake...probably a total of 15 mins tops...AEM is next...about an hour, did not realize that I had to take all that crap off behind the bumper. everything is looking sweet!

so I go to install the midpipe...bolts wont thread right. Pissed off, I put my stock cat back up so I could run back to the store. After about 3 trips to home depot, I am beyond done with this midpipe. why the hell would they be so lazy as to not include all necessary hardware? Greddy did. AEM did. I mean shit, they included instructions.

SO to the point: what bolts are needed for this pipe? I have tried to do this on my own, and even got quotes to have a shop to do it...I really want do install this thing myself, considering its not hard. If someone could please give me the bolt sizes and thread increments, I would greatly appreciate it :b

i used my oem bolts with my ap mid and my hipower...

well the studs on the cats are not removable...i think the previous owner had the ehxaust side of the cat spot welded, so I am unable to remove those. it just makes me mad...i have this pipe sitting all lonely, looking at the 8 like a lost puppy :(

The heat usually makes it stick on the oem cat you can use generic bolts for the ap midpipe maybe 3/8'' off the top of my head.

Yeah the CAT is a pretty tricky install actually.

In the 3 times I have done it (except for the time when I did my own car) I have had to drill out pretty much all the nuts and use my own fasteners for everything. (because of the heat and oxidation welding everything together)

Also all the bolts on the 8 are Metric, which thankfully don't do the fine and coarse pitch thing of SAE

So just measure the hole, get something similar sized in metric and it should fit (unless the threads are damaged from the heat and oxidation)

Might want to pick up some carbide bits for you drill next time out just in case...

thanks for the tip. i used a thread to install the RB race pipe and tried using those bolts...they went in fine...the first time. then I had to take them out and pretty much cross threaded one hold on the exhaust flange. i tried, as suggested on the RB Midpipe, M10 1.0, 1.25, and 1.5...none worked. I will try again tonight to see if i can take off the spring bolts...again, thanks for the advice.

the bolt size for the midpipe is a M10 how long is it im trying to install mine aswell but since its a pain to get the bolts loose i was just going to replace them all with new stainless steel ones but im not sure what the exact size bolt and nuts are

The three studs in the factory exhaust manifold are replaceable and they are splined in the manifold. If you snap a stud off, simply bash the broken stud with a 2 lb. sledgehammer and it will pop out.

I have found that M10x1.5x40 bolts with a flat washer, split lock washer, and an M10x1.5 nut (all in stainless steel) fits well.

I just put the AP midpipe on and was frustrated by the lack of hardware as well....in fact I was fucking pissed. I used m10 1.25 60mm, a washer and a new spring, I am not sure if this is the end of the midpipe you are talking about header side (which I was able to reuse the oem bolts). Anyway, I realized I was stripping into it, I think the AP midpipe threads are american (could be wrong) but it was in fact very frustrating and I would have been less pissed if they would have at least wrote me a damn note telling me the hardware I needed to go get (or perhaps their cheap asses could have just simply provided it and tacked on an extra five bucks to the price)

BTW....be careful, that f*cker is loud! cops started following me a lot. Quite annoying trying to drive 20 mph in 4th gear to keep it quiet, and it resonates off of buildings in city driving, but DAYAMNNNNNnnnn it sounds good!!!!! Sucks out on the freeway for long trips because of the sound inside but this is not my only vehicle so I dont have to take it very far.

ctlums do you have an aftermarket catback? If so what do you have? I had my ap mid pipe with a custom build similar to a hks hi power and it was too loud so I sold the catback and went back to stock.

With the Stock catback its not even loud at all... just raspy which is annoying.

Some silly questions here:

1. Do we have to use springs to secure the end with the 2 bolts? From what I see when my cat was gutted, there is no gasket on that end. Wont it cause any exhaust leak?

2. Isn't the AP midpipe only sound raspy between 4k to 5k rpm?

3. Can exhaust/header wrap be used to make the sound quieter?

1. If you are reusing the stock bolts you will need to use the springs there is no other way.. If not you can get some new bolts, washers, and nuts to replace and that will work fine without springs.

Charles may know the exact type of bolts you can use in place of the stock spring/bolt combo.

And yes you will need to have a donut gasket so it wont have a exhaust leak.



2. Yes its only raspy between 4-5k, if you cant handle that purchase the BHR midpipe or RB.


3. I have no idea.


I suggest getting a aftermarket catback as well. AP mid + Stock doesnt sound the greatest and the 4-5k rasp is really noticeable. With a different tone in the catback it can go muffled and not nearly as bad.

ok guys, i just said fuck it and took it to a friend's performance shop...I found the way that is so easy, even a caveman can do it.

3 bolts on header size are m10. thread measurements do not matter, as there is no threading in the bolt holes...just make sure to get the correct bolt/nut measurements (ie - 1.00 bolt, 1.00 nut).

now, for the part that pissed me off: the exhaust flange bolts. after taking off the spring nuts, the stud is there. instead of going from the back and getting the nuts off, he took a deep socket wrench to the side with the springs, and it came off without him even having to put any effort in it.

anyway, it is freakin loud...not sure how long I will keep it on there...but it does make my Greddy SE like its about to unleash hell :D

1) The exhaust flange on the manifold is splined for purposes of original assembly. I use 1.5 pitch threaded hardware with our midpipes so it can be repeatedly removed and reinstalled without the threads incurring damage from heat and use.

2) A box-end wrench might have worked equally well, but there is a lesson in here too: take your time, examine the hardware, and know which tool to use.

3) Certainly is, and the only thing that will be "unleashed" will be the tickets you get. :lol2:

ive had my ap mid on since oct of last year...... its freaking loud with my hi power..... my friends can hear me coming from like 3 blocks away.... :D

no cop troble yet *knock on wood*

I am full AP from header back. It is hella loud but I love it. I am just not sure if I can tolerate it for too long. The Dual resonated midpipe may have a short lifespan...the first time it costs me money on a ticket (I drive cautious but still) I will spitefully crush it and later attempt to melt it into a golf club. But, for now, i spent the money so I am going to give it a good run and see if it survives. AP does sound delicious...just too damn loud. I knew it would be loud but, damn, it is really really loud.

just bought the AP midpipe, still have stock exhaust, just wondering if there is any noticable power gain?? what can i expect?? thanks

I have not had my car on the dyno but I feel confident saying that yes there is a power gain. More responsive and the low end is better. But bolt ons will only carry you so far. FI FTW!

like how loud are we talking here,
I mean, I'm running glass pack (more than likely blown) as a muffler with a gutted stock cat..
Think its going to be any different?

It is loud. The first mile I drove it I came to a T in the road (3 way stop). A cop coming straight at me stopped. As I pulled forward as quietly as possible, I watched that cop flip a U-turn in the middle of the intersection and follow me. I was trying to keep it quiet by doing 25 mph in 4th gear. It is still extremely loud even then. If you get over 3-4k rpm heads start turning. You hit 5 in the wrong place and there is a cop within 3-5 blocks, they will be looking for you. I became a very good driver after installation, there is very little horseplay because I know how much attention I am drawing to myself. I dont know if this answers your question, but this is my experience with the full AP exhaust, however, I have no intention of changing it any time soon because it sounds really REALLY good! Just loud.

Well it helps...but only kind of.. I mean here is what my car sounds like now just at idle...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T11EI-JCnI

I dont know if thats going to be any different.

I cant watch it now, internet here is suckin, if it changes I will check it out. But seriously, it is manageable if you are cautious. If you are not going to be in an area too long it really doesnt matter how loud you are. If you are in a city, just try to keep out of the mid-high rpm.

After much effort and crawling around, I got my midpipe put in.. and since I dont have a license or a properly equipped car, I only test drove in the alley by my garage... Idle, not too bad.. infact more deep, more tamed, and maybe even quieter.. But driving.. Definite difference on sound..