Waxes And Sealants: The differences for your car.
I figured I would post this in the show and shine section. Let's face it, we goto the local auto parts store and see countless of Waxes and Sealants from many different manufactures. It's confusing, it's a mess and I hope this clears up some of that mess with science!
Poll post what you use for your car, it may make and break someone's choice. No, i'm not trying to be biased to poll question - Mequiars really does have that many waxes and sealants, and I tried to pick the most widely used products that are available in store for everyone in Advanced Autoparts, Oreily's, AutoZone, Kmart and Wal-Mart. However, There are much beloved products that you can purchase online- Pepboys, Dodojuice, Wolfgang, just to name a few. Most of these are preferred over the store products, and if you use these products or no products I've listed, please post what you use. It may help other's decide. Polymer (Sealant) and Carnauba wax differences: The polymers and waxes used for detailing are semi-solid; they are actually a very concentrated solution in an organic solvent or aqueous emulsion. A) Polymer sealant- comprises an open linked molecule; these open linked polymer molecules join together to create an elongated mesh like effect that reflects light efficiently due to their inherent flat surface. Because they are usually very transparent they transmit the surface colour faithfully, but they have very little depth resulting in what is perceived as a very bright, flat silver glow. Initially polymers attach to the paint surface by surface tension, after they have cross-linked the polymers and paint molecules form a cationic bond. Sealant imitates the natural waxes. Protection is usually longer and reapplication is less frequent than natural Carnauba waxes. On-Car Look: Originally quite sterile and plastic looking. Newer products use alot of polymers to amp up the gloss factor to look wetter. Lifetime: Typical Coverage - 4 Mths to 6 Mths. Higher Lifetimes - Upto 12 Mths. B) Carnauba wax- molecules are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the surface. These wax molecules form an egg-grate type (with the long axis vertical) mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth. Initially a Carnauba wax attaches itself by surface tension; during the curing process the carrier system (solvents / oils) attach themselves to the porous microscopic caps in the paint surface forming a physical anchor. Durability is limited and re-application is needed more frequently. On-Car Look: Usually very wet in look, and deeper than synthetic waxes. Lifetime: Typical Coverage - 6 Wks to 8 Wks. (In contrast with sealants: 1.5 Mths - 2 Mths) C) Melting points- Polymer melts at 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Carnauba Wax 180oF and evaporates / erodes over time (dependant upon ambient temperatures and climatic conditions) Bee wax is often mixed with Carnauba wax, which has an even lower melting point (130oF), which further limits its durability. In actual practice higher temperatures frequently leads to melting of the wax compounds. C.a)For example, painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195 degrees or more Note: Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer, conversely if a polymer is applied on top of a Carnauba wax the cross-linking / bonding may be compromised. Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with some oil in it will abort the cross linking or bonding process of a polymer, just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability may be effected. You can top a sealant with a pure wax to add to looks as wanted, but not the otherway around typically. More to read: http://www.autogeek.net/qude101.html http://paintcarendetailing.com/wax.html http://www.autopia-carcare.com/car-w...t-sealant.html http://www.detailguide.com/03_how_01..._seal_wax.html Myths and Facts: (Source: http://www.autodetail-school.com/det...-frequency.php) Myth #1: My car has 4 coats of wax applied. Fact: When ever wax is applied any residue and or previous wax application is stripped off and replaced with the new application. Myth #2: My car has a clear coat; I do not have to wax clear coat. Fact: Clear coat is just that; a clear layer of paint over the colored layer of paint. Clear coat being paint itself, must have wax applied to protect it as well. Myth #3: My car has a treatment form the dealer and or detail center that requires no waxing ever. Fact: Read the fine print in your warranty at time of purchase, it will clearly state that once a month a conditioner must be applied to maintain the warranty. Take a guess as to what that conditioner is...you guessed it, wax. Polishing Vs Waxing: Polishing a car is not waxing a car. The definition of polishing: 1. to make smooth and glossy, especially by rubbing or friction: to polish a brass doorknob. 2. to render finished, refined, or elegant: His speech needs polishing. Essentially polishing takes the clear coat of your automotive, and smooths the imperfections of the clear coat. Waxing is a protective layer ontop of the clear coat to help prevent damage and allows the paint to last longer and keep from going into a dull finish. Product Information and Misconceptions: 1. Mother's Sealer & Glaze: is NOT a sealant or Wax and should not be presumed as such. It's a polish. |
you left one of THE best polishes off your list. (see my user title for a clue)
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I can't find Zaino in any stores. :P
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Missed a lot of good brands actually. Meguiars and Mothers products may be some of the best off the shelf products, but there are far better brands out there. And for what its worth, armor all is one of the worst product brands out there, if you have to ask why, then you are totally lacking in the detailing education
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I only had 10 spots for the poll. I really only went off to what people can find readily in the stores - like walmart, or autozone. I don't use armorall, but it's still a product that people can readily buy at the local retail store.
Why don't you like Armor All products? I ask because this thread is for everyone of all knowledge levels :) |
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Gotcha, I wasn't critisizing, just reinforcing the fact that these are good off the shelf products, but not the best bangs for the buck quality wise.
Armor All is like the bud light of car detailing products. There are tons of flavors, tons of different off-brands, tons of different applications, but when it boils down to it, its glorified garbage that is only at the position it is in because they had the money for proper advertising. The composition of their products is very greasy and it's bonding properties are piss poor. Some of the products I use: Attachment 241054 |
Wow.. did you just take a picture of my car care shelf? I have 90% of ^^^
I just bought and used NXT 2.0 wax. It's pretty good. I really liked the NXT version 1 but it was really hard to remove and created a lot of powder. NXT 2.0 is much easier to use but i'm not sure if it's as good yet. Seems to make a good shine but i'm not sure how long it's going to last. I wasn't waxing my RX8 so i dont really have an apples to apples comparison of NXT 1.0 with NXT 2.0 |
I wasn't a big fan of the NXT, I actually got it as a pack when I first got my porter cable polisher. So far the best wax that I have come across is the Collinite #845. It isn't too expensive and it applies nicely. Beading is absolutely gorgeous for months.
https://s-hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/225..._4264079_n.jpg This is a pic after a quick rain shower about a month after application. |
you have tech wax behind mother's back to black
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Originally Posted by paimon.soror
(Post 4080726)
I wasn't a big fan of the NXT, I actually got it as a pack when I first got my porter cable polisher.
I would have to say my favorite sealants are Poorboy's EX-P, Klasse Polish/AIO, Wolfgang Paint Sealant. My favorite waxes are Poorboy's Natty Blue, Collinite #845, Dodo Juice Blue (if i have some extra cash) |
my 8 looks like a sex machine in the sun, all thanks to the products i used on it and all my other cars.
what i did to my car is... 1. wash and clay bar the entire car (painted surfaces and even windows cause im sick in the head) 2. Gave it a nice polish with menzerna polishing compounds that make the job 5x easier 3. after removing polishing compound excess, i applied Menzerna Power Lock Polymer and let it sit for 5 min before removing excess. 4. then i follow up with a carnauba based wax (World's Best Wax) My car looks freaking shiny as hell and such deep and wet looking color and when it rains, water will fly off the car so hard. |
after reading this i guess i dont have to wax my car every weekend, right? i wash and wax every weekend since day 1 i got my 8 (meguiars carnauba based wax, liquid one)... Someone once told me to not waz the car every week because its bad for the paint long term. is that true? thanks guys
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there really is no point in applying a hard wax every weekend as some are made to last for weeks to months. There are however some lighter spray waxes that some people use once a week just to retain the luster of a good waxing.
One side affect to constant waxing is that you start to build a positive charge on your paint. I am not sure if you noticed, but you are probably seeing more dust appear on the surface of your paint as the week progresses. |
i reallllly like wolfgang fuzion, expensive but last long and make my car glow ! meguiars, mothers and the other suggest are basic OTC stuff that...pretty much sucks...armorall is worse.
nxt was not that bad but was streaking when i removed it. paint prep is important for a wax to bond, clay bar is a good paint prep. here's a list of my products Soap : Meguiar's gold class No rinse wash : Optimum no rinse Grit guard : Grit guard insert Clay : Meguiar's smooth surface clay kit Scraper : Scraperite plastic razor blade Squeeze botlle : Autogeek squeeze bottle M105/M205/gloss tire gel Compound : Meguiar's 105 ulta cut compound Finishing compound : Meguiar's 205 ultra finishing polish Light compound : Meguiar's ultimate compound Glaze : Meguiar's pro machine glaze All in one : Klasse AIO Plastic polish : Meguiar's plastx Metal polish : Mother's Billet metal polish Steel wool : 0000 steel wool Wet sand paper : 3m 2000 wet sand Wet sand paper : 3m 1000 wet sand Wet sand paper : 3m 400 wet sand Wheel cleaner : Sonax wheel cleaner full effect Wheel glaze : DP wheel glaze Sealant : DP Polycoat sealant Sealant : Meguiar's NXT 2.0 tech wax liquid Wax : P21s 100% carnauba wax Wax : Wolfgang Fuzion mini Wax : Autoglym HD wax All purpose cleaner : Super clean tough task All purpose cleaner : DP cleanse-all Trim dressing : Ultima tire and trim guard + Outside windshield : aquapel Inside windshield : Stoner Invisible glass Rubber and plastic : Meguiar's natural shine protectant Interior dressing : 303 aerospace Fabric : 303 high tech fabric guard Leather : Lexol conditioner Leather : Lexol cleaner Tire dressing : Meguiar's gold class endurance high gloss tire gel Tire dressing : DP gloss tire gel Applicator : Tire and trim dressing applicator storage lid Mitt : Simoniz microfiber mitt Mitt : Simoniz chenille mitt Mitt : Mothers genuine lambwool mitt Brush : Part cleaner brush Brush : Daytona speed brush Brush : Finish line 5 brush kit Brush : Carpet and mat brush Brush : 2way mini detail brush Brush : Natural horsehair interior brush Brush : Mother's wheel brush Brush : Clean wheel lug nut brush Brush : Rubber pet brush Sponge : Carrand microfiber max premium wash sponge Drying towel : Supreme guzzler waffle weave towel Drying towel : Cobra HD waffle weave Microfiber : Simoniz micro fiber towel Microfiber : Cobra microfiber towel combo Microfiber : Cobra microfiber gloves Rotary : no brand 2 speed rotary Wool : Double sided wool pad Spray : water spray for m105/wool Spray : IPA 10% spray for inspection Dual action : Meguiar's g110v2 Backing plate : Meguiar's W68DA for 7" pads Backing plate : Lake country 4 7/8" for 6" pads Backing plate : Lake country 3,5" for 3.5" pads Pad : Lake country 3.5" light cutting pad Pad : Lake country 3.5" polishing pad Pad : Lake country 3.5" finishing pad Pads : Lake country 5,5 yellow cutting flat pad Pads : Lake country 5,5 orange light cut flat pad Pads : Lake country 5,5 white polishing flat pad Pads : Lake country 5,5 black finishing flat pad Pads : Lake country 5,5 blue finessing flat pad Pad : Meguiar's Soft buff v2.0 cutting pad 7" Pad : Meguiar's Soft buff v2.0 polishing pad 7" Pad : Meguiar's Soft buff v2.0 finishing pad 7" Pad : Lake Country Css red finishing pad 5.5" Spur : Duo spur wool and foam pad cleaning tool Traditional orbital : Simoniz orbitale 8" Bonnets : Simoniz 8" 1x microfiber, 1x foam, 1x terry cloth, 5x wax applicator Polishing ball : Mother's mini ball Tape : 3m blue painter's tape Wax applicator : Simoniz application pads Applicator : Wolfgang 3 finger pocket applicator Applicator : Autoglym applicator Applicator : Autoglym perfect palm Applicator : Pinnacle foam applicator Pad holder : Wolfgang polishing pal Vacuum : Shop vac 5.5hp 8 gallon Extractor : Bissel Autocare heat |
That's a lot of detailing product.
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I voted other for:
1z Glanz wax Sonax Nano Pro I like synthetic hybrids, find them to be much longer lasting. |
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