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What's your STX set-up? (2010 edition)
1 Attachment(s)
Saw this on miata.net and thought it would be a good idea for those who don't care to play their cards close to their chest.
Let's try to keep the same format, for easy reference. I'll start off... Model: 2006 6MT RX-8 base (sport package) Suspension:
Attachment 264337 |
My "phase 1" of the stock to stx conversion.
Model: 2004 6MT RX-8 base Suspension: * Koni Sport d/a valved - Progress Tech springs * Hotchkis 27mm MX-5 FSB * Stock or no rear bar Brakes: * OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: * Cobb AP Wheels: * 17x9 +45 Enkei RPF1's * 255/40/17 Hankook RS-3's (full tread) Body: Alignment: * Will know more after getting it back on the alignment rack. Other: Lightweight battery Corbeau Forza driver's seat. |
Model: 2004 6MT RX-8 Sport (Damn stability control button!)
Suspension:
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Model:
*2009 Sport 6mt Suspension: *Bilstein PSS9 coilovers *Hotchkis 27mm MX-5 FSB (3 way adjustable) *Eibach 16mm MX-5 RSB (2 way adjustable)/Sock redrilled bar Brakes: *OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: *S0lO8-Speed custom Getto Exhaust Wheels: *17x9 +45 Enkei RPF1's *255/40/17 Hankook RS-3's (full tread) Alignment: *Camber F -2.7 / R -2.2 *Front toe out, rear toe in-verry little don't remember how much Other: *Walmart Motorcycle Battery-8lbs. *NRG Carbon Fiber Seats-Custom Brackets W/weight added |
I was originally going to stay in stock class, but my stock intake is coming apart so I decided to get the AEM CAI. I may as well go all in now, eh? When all is sorted out, here is what I'll have:
Model:
Suspension (stock, but these are planned):
Brakes:
Engine/exhaust:
Wheels:
Body:
Alignment:
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I already had some mods on my car when I bought that put me outta stock class, but now that its not my only vehicle, I was able to prep it all winter.
Model:
Suspension:
Brakes:
Engine/exhaust:
Wheels:
Body:
Alignment:
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1 Attachment(s)
Edited for 2012 season.
Model: 2004 6MT RX-8 Sport Package / Cloth / Non-sunroof Suspension:
Attachment 173144 |
Okay, I’ll play.
Model: 2004 RX-8 Sport Package Suspension:
Brakes:
Engine/Exhaust
Wheels
Body
Alignment
Other
http://www.gotcone.com/pgallery/imag...r/img_8057.jpg |
Update: See my original post for the recent updates to my front spring rate and alignment. I'll stick with this set-up for the remainder of the 2010 season.
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chike- no header?
also, how'd you get -2.5* camber with 6.5* caster? |
Originally Posted by dmitrik4
(Post 3540473)
chike- no header?
also, how'd you get -2.5* camber with 6.5* caster? My car is lowered by ~1" compared to when I was on konis in B-stock. 6.5* caster w/ -2.5* camber is very doable. FWIW, I got -2.0* camber and 4.5* caster when my car was in stock class. I wasn't sure I could pass sound with the RB header. With the Davesport cat and vibrant resonator I'm already somewhere around 90dB @ 50ft. The header would have made the car MUCH louder. I'm pretty happy with the car as it currently sits. It's the perfect weekend car/occasional daily driver. -Chike |
Model: 2005 Shinka
Suspension:
Brakes:
Engine/Trans/Exhaust:
Wheels:
Body:
Alignment:
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Originally Posted by tiresmoker
(Post 3541083)
AEM CAI (rerouted to be STX legal)
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Originally Posted by maskedferret
(Post 3541176)
What about it in its regular form makes it not legal for STX?
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Originally Posted by chiketkd
(Post 3541187)
The plastic "splash shield" has to be removed to run the AEM/Mazdaspeed intake. This shield must remain in place in STX.
Install instructions: http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-485_inst.pdf Additionally, how is this "modification" implemented? On a tangent, I recall having to bend a metal extrusion to the left of the filter element to allow it to clear; what is that thing? |
Originally Posted by maskedferret
(Post 3541199)
Err, I don't recall a "splash shield" that I removed... :( Got a picture?
Install instructions: http://www.aemintakes.com/instructio...1-485_inst.pdf Additionally, how is this "modification" implemented? On a tangent, I recall having to bend a metal extrusion to the left of the filter element to allow it to clear; what is that thing? Step Af in the instructions, page 10. Becuase Mazda named the plastic piece the "upper radiator shroud" or something like that, it has to stay in place and cannot be removed or cut/modified to allow the intake pipe to pass through it, because it is part of the cooling system and not the intake system. Basically you have to route the filter/piping to the same location that the stock intake inlet is/was routed along. For the most part local level autocrossing shouldn't be that big of a deal, but at National Tours, and Pro Solos you will want to make sure that the intake is rerouted so it's legal as someone will more than likely protest. Better to be 150% safe then sorry. |
Originally Posted by tiresmoker
(Post 3541243)
Step Af in the instructions, page 10. Becuase Mazda named the plastic piece the "upper radiator shroud" or something like that, it has to stay in place and cannot be removed or cut/modified to allow the intake pipe to pass through it, because it is part of the cooling system and not the intake system.
Basically you have to route the filter/piping to the same location that the stock intake inlet is/was routed along. For the most part local level autocrossing shouldn't be that big of a deal, but at National Tours, and Pro Solos you will want to make sure that the intake is rerouted so it's legal as someone will more than likely protest. Better to be 150% safe then sorry. Btw maskedferret, this post should give you more info (includes a diagram): https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=116 |
Now that I finally have some parts to brag about I'll post in this thread.
Model: 2007 6MT RX-8 Sport Suspension: * Bilstein PSS9 coilovers * Hotchkis 27mm MX-5 FSB (3 way adjustable) * Hotchkis 21mm MX-5 RSB (3 way adjustable) - may swap for a smaller bar if it's too tail happy. Brakes: * OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: * Stock Intake (planning on 6" filter with podram and thermal isolation box) * Stock Exhaust (planning on adding a 2.5" highflow cat with extra resonator in stock midpipe and reusing the b-stock exhaust rear section) Wheels: * 17x9 +42 WedsSport TC-005 * 245/40R17 Bridgestone RE-01R (3 years old, fronts are corded) Body: * OEM, front undertray has extra screws/hardware in it to hold it together after a stray semi truck tread had its way with it. Alignment: * Height F 13.5" / R 13.5" * Caster: L 8.07 / R 8.12 * Camber: F -2.25 / R -1.6 * Toe F 0 / R 0 Other: * OEM Cargo Net (the only option my car came with) * Need Access Port + tune. * Hail damage to roof, hood, fenders and trunk (adds aerodynamic drag to the top of the car to help with high speed stability... yeah... that's the ticket.) |
Originally Posted by MilesJ
(Post 3542651)
Alignment:
* Height F 13.5" / R 13.5" * Caster: L 8.07 / R 8.12 * Camber: F -2.25 / R -1.6 * Toe F 0 / R 0 |
If my car is setup as per the details below, how far off of STX pace would I be on say .... a typical 40 second course. I know this isn't scientific and a real answer is impossible, but just give it your best guess.
The winner of last year's National STX class is pretty much local. I'd like to know how far I would be off of him ... if my car were driven by somebody as good as him :) Of course, I won't be able to attain that time, but it's nice to have goals :) Model: 2007 6MT RX-8 base (sport package) Suspension: * Koni yellow springs * OEM Anti Roll bar * Progress Technology Springs Brakes: * OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: * Removal of stock muffler (is this legal?) Wheels: * 17x8 +35 5zigen FN01R-C * 245/40/17 Dunlop Star Spec Body: * OEM front lip and rear spoiler Alignment: * Caster 6.5 * Camber F -2.0 / R -1.8 * Toe F 1/8" out / R 0 Is this alignment possible on a stock RX8? I had the alignment done about 2.5 years ago, and they could only get (IIRC) about -1.8 front and -1.6 rear. |
^^^^^ Anyone?
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It's impossible to say, since you don't tell us how your competitors car is configured.
But, assuming he has a decent set of coilovers, 9" rims with one of the top tires, some weight reduction measures, some power adders, and is decently setup, his car will be faster. I won't hazard a guess as to how much. Having said that, if you are a substantially better driver, you should be able to catch him. If he is even a marginally better driver than you, again assuming a decent STX setup, you are toast. |
If his time was a 41.4 then your time would be a 43.9
:dunno: |
I will say that you have a decent starting point for local events - enough to have fun on. Just go out, have a good time, and take rides with faster drivers, either in your car or in theirs, to learn about fast driving. Then upgrade the car when you can.
You'll find that most of us are hesitant to comment on "how much slower is my setup" mainly because it's impossible to know and driving technique is so important. Getting the tread back on topic, I could never get -2.0 camber out of the front of my car with stock springs, but with a lower ride height it's more likely. Not sure how low the PT springs go. I get -2.5 with my car, with a fairly low front ride height. Deleting the cat-back is legal, I do believe, but it will be very loud and if your region is instituting sound regs (most SCCA clubs are) then you will likely have problems. I'd say the hassle isn't worth it - just focus on your driving instead of removing the cat-back before every event. |
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3642934)
It's impossible to say, since you don't tell us how your competitors car is configured.
But, assuming he has a decent set of coilovers, 9" rims with one of the top tires, some weight reduction measures, some power adders, and is decently setup, his car will be faster. I won't hazard a guess as to how much. Having said that, if you are a substantially better driver, you should be able to catch him. If he is even a marginally better driver than you, again assuming a decent STX setup, you are toast. I was just looking for some type of yardstick to shoot for. Even finishing 1.5 seconds off from him would be awesome. So maybe that's what I will shoot for if I ever make it to an event where he is present. |
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3642978)
I will say that you have a decent starting point for local events - enough to have fun on. Just go out, have a good time, and take rides with faster drivers, either in your car or in theirs, to learn about fast driving. Then upgrade the car when you can.
You'll find that most of us are hesitant to comment on "how much slower is my setup" mainly because it's impossible to know and driving technique is so important. Getting the tread back on topic, I could never get -2.0 camber out of the front of my car with stock springs, but with a lower ride height it's more likely. Not sure how low the PT springs go. I get -2.5 with my car, with a fairly low front ride height. Deleting the cat-back is legal, I do believe, but it will be very loud and if your region is instituting sound regs (most SCCA clubs are) then you will likely have problems. I'd say the hassle isn't worth it - just focus on your driving instead of removing the cat-back before every event. I've been autocrossing for a long time. I'm sure I can still learn from riding with faster drivers, but I've had a few very fast drivers drive my car, and they can do no better than me. That's why I think I'm to the point where I can finally benefit from modifying it a bit. Note: Yes, I'm sure there are people who can beat me in my own car. I would say when I get my car prepared this way, it will be an ending point, not a starting point. Frankly, I don't know how some of you guys with wives get her to sign off on the untold thousands it takes to prepare a car to be nationally competitive. I mean, I like Local Competition a lot, but one always wonders how he stacks up against those special drivers who win national titles. I'm sure many drivers who post in these "STX" threads have thought about "how much slower [or faster] is my setup". I read these forums a lot. You probably each have an idea where you are compared to others, but have enough humility not to talk about it. :) Regarding the alignment, that is good info. I think the drop is about 1" for the PT springs. I did not know that this would affect potential camber. Can you tell how lost I am when it comes to car setup? It should be quite a comedy of errors when I install springs and shocks. Yeh, I thought about the sound level of the car with no muffler. One of the sites I frequent will be fine. The other won't. Let me be honest, though, I really want to do it just for the noise it will make. My car is deathly quiet like all stock RX8s. Thanks again for taking the time to answer, George. The last time I asked a question, you were the only who answered, so I sense a trend. It's appreciated. |
^Gotcha. I need to work on my reading comprehension skills. I saw "pretty much local" but missed "current national champion." Nice benchmark to have. :)
OK, so your an experienced driver, cool. 1.5 seconds may not be too far off the mark. It would be interesting to hear how you fare - please post results in the STX thread! I'm sure many people have the same question you have, and would be grateful to here how you stack up at your current prep level. And yes, I try to answer when I can, and when I feel like it, which isn't all that often! ;) [edit] At '09 Nats, I was 0.5 sec slower than Bryce on day 2. KW V3 Coilovers, 255 Toyos on 9" rims, 210 hp, 2750 lbs, and the drive of my life. |
Originally Posted by tiresmoker
(Post 3541243)
Step Af in the instructions, page 10. Becuase Mazda named the plastic piece the "upper radiator shroud" or something like that, it has to stay in place and cannot be removed or cut/modified to allow the intake pipe to pass through it, because it is part of the cooling system and not the intake system.
Basically you have to route the filter/piping to the same location that the stock intake inlet is/was routed along. For the most part local level autocrossing shouldn't be that big of a deal, but at National Tours, and Pro Solos you will want to make sure that the intake is rerouted so it's legal as someone will more than likely protest. Better to be 150% safe then sorry. |
Originally Posted by Rosko350z
(Post 3643306)
Yeh, I thought about the sound level of the car with no muffler. One of the sites I frequent will be fine. The other won't. Let me be honest, though, I really want to do it just for the noise it will make. My car is deathly quiet like all stock RX8s.
http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...f5239893e9.jpg Driving around on the street with this setup is deafening, seriously. I was lazy at the last Atlanta National Tour and left the muffler off between days and drove back and forth to the site from my hotel like this. It was not fun to say the least. It does however sound amazing on course. |
Because you had it dumping underneath the car and also probably because the elbow was likely pointed in the direction of the meter. Both of these will increase the magnitude of the sound at the meter microphone. Generally a straight pipe after the OE cat run all the way out the back won't read that high, will easily pass even 95 dBA with an elbow pointing away from the sound meter position
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2 Attachment(s)
I'd have to agree with Mark. Shawn, Katie and I ran a straight pipe after the cat, that was angled towards the ground behind the car. The highest reading any of us got at Nats in 2009 was ~95 dB.
Attachment 256790 Attachment 256791 Even in this configuration, the droning from the exhaust was much too loud and annoying to run on the street. I always swapped back to my street catback after big events. |
Is Tein considered a poor choice for this route? It is kind of what I have been looking towards but a lot of you guys seem to be using the Bilstein PSS9 coilover. Any thoughts?
I use to auto-x my civic a few years back. Koni Yellow/Comptec Springs/gsr RSB. That is my experience as of now but with my new car I am looking for a bit more result. |
^PSS9's are a great choice for the price. Koni Yellow's with custom spring rates will be better than the Tein's you'll buy out of the box...Mr.Pockets is happy with his Stance GR+ and does pretty well at a national level. Ohlins are fun, AST's are fun...Motons are nice.
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Model: 2005 AT Base
Suspension: Eibach Prokit Lowering Springs Brakes: OEM pads and rotors Engine/Exhuast: AEM CAI Mazdaspeed Catback Headers + Midpipe coming soon Wheels: 18" Boss MSR 045 Racing Rims Dunlop Direzza DZ101 Low Profile Tires Body: OEM front lip and rear spoiler Tinted windows and smoked tailights. Rotor emblems substituting mazda Painted red calipers (coming soon) Hid headlights Red led parking lights Alignment: Height F 13.5" / R 13.5" Caster 7.0 Camber F -2.5 / R -2.0 Toe F 0 / R 0 Other: AEM License Plate Frame |
this thread is the best! thank everyone so much for all the info! one question...where can you find the moton coilovers for sale? i feel like ive looked all over and cant find any. thanks for you help.
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Originally Posted by lycanthrope
(Post 3775712)
one question...where can you find the moton coilovers for sale? i feel like ive looked all over and cant find any. thanks for you help.
You'll have to give them a call or send an e-mail to get a quote, but be prepared to spend some $$$. |
^Tis where I purchased mine. Bill is a great guy to work with.
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thanks so much. im guessing the motons worked out well then?
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Yeah if you know how to adjust them. They are alot more complicated than your normal shock, Double adjustable. Lots of tuning to be done to get them just right.
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There is a forum member selling a used set of Motons if you are serious:
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/stx-parts-moton-ms-pt-rb-rp-eibach-etc-167937/ |
i am very serious i just want to do alot of research so i know im getting the best suspension i can find. thanks again everyone for helping so much! i should be making a choice very soon.
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Small hi-jack.
I'm looking for new tires for next year, my RE11's are toast and I am undecided on replcements. I've pretty well ruled out the R1R's, as this is a summer daily driver, and I am not sure they would last more than one summer. I am thinking RS3's or Kumho XS's to keep the cost down. Any thoughts on these two? |
Get the RS3s.
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Originally Posted by GeorgeH
(Post 3780735)
Get the RS3s.
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Too bad you're in Cana-duh, I have a new set of RE-11s that need to be out of my garage
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 3780976)
Too bad you're in Cana-duh
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Weather is not an issue in this part of British Columbia, we are semi-arid. Our annual precipitation (snow and rain combined) is about the same as one bad day
in Seattle. |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 3780976)
Too bad you're in Cana-duh, I have a new set of RE-11s that need to be out of my garage
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Originally Posted by spigot52
(Post 3781159)
Sucks to be me.
The let several times I quoted shipping tires up there the potential buyer ends up yelling at me so I don't even bother trying any more - I don't set the shipping costs, just pass them on |
When I buy anything south of the border I have it shipped to place just across the border, then go down and bring it thru the border myself...it's only about 80 mi
from here.....Tirerack charges about $50 to ship a set of tires there, but about $300 to ship here! |
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