When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got the diff cooler mounted. Thanks to Adax for the inspiration and answering some questions about his diff cooler setup. did first track event last weekend. ambient temp was around 40 degree. diff temp got up to 200 in about 10 minutes on track, then i turned on the cooler and temp dropped to 180 and maintain there for the entire session. on the last session, the ground wire for the relay got lose and the pump didnt come on, i saw the temp got up to 210 and i kept staying on track and it didnt look like temp got any higher than 210. but on a hot day, i think diff temp would have definitely been higher. i also added heat sleeve on the lines because it's close to the exhaust. i'll take pics of that later.
Last edited by trackjunkie; 03-28-2019 at 03:01 PM.
Finally got around to gutting the front doors. i cut it and left enough so that i could put the glass and power window back in for winter or street driving.
the glass and power window stuff was around 8 lbs. and all the rest of the metal stuff i cut out was also around 8 lbs. i also made lexan glass window so i can put them on for transportation or rain at the track. didn't want to use the glass and risk breaking them at the track.
Last edited by trackjunkie; 06-14-2019 at 02:18 PM.
A little less weight, a little less drag. didn't get a change to weigh the stock mirrors yet but probably a few lbs. since i'm short and have to sit pretty far forward, the driver side mirror is a huge forward blind spot for me.
Last edited by trackjunkie; 06-14-2019 at 02:39 PM.
I finally got the s2 pump installed. I got Ford fuel line repair kit from autozone, 3/8 fitting 5/16 hose, for the siphon line.
this is how much i cut off the siphon line so the line doesn't crimp up when i added the Ford quick release fitting
the plug in the left is the old s1 fuel level sensor plug. the white plug in the right is the old s1 fuel pump plug. i de-pin the fuel level wires and plug it into the s1 pump plug.
instead of slotting the plug like everyone did, i decided to trim off the plug index tab on the s2 basket with xacto blade. the pins are also offset to the wrong side, so i had to bend them over a little for the plug to seat in all the way.
the angle for the output line was too much and the line got crimp. so i heated up the line and tried to bend it a little and that didn't work, it was too much heat and the line bubble up. so i cut the end off and trim some of the hose of to position it better. but i under estimated how hard it was to reinsert the hose. i tried different ways of heating up the hose to push it on but nothing worked. so i just resorted to rubber hose for now till i can figure something out more permanent
thanks to John V for the idea of drilling out the hole for the feed check valve at the bottom and modifying the check valve so it would swing open more.
size difference between the old hold and the new hole, 5/16" vs 3/8"
Last edited by trackjunkie; 07-10-2019 at 07:20 AM.
now they make push-style unions for nylon tubing that are supposedly suitable for fuel lines; all you do is push the lines into it and they lock in, but I personally like the idea of a threaded fitting because of the potential fire hazard if a tube end ever pulled out came loose.
Which you could go back to where that nylon line attaches to the metal fuel line that runs under the chassis to the engine bay, cut off the barbed attachment end of the nylon line, and attach a compression fitting there, then use adapters to run a 6AN line from the metal line to the pump discharge connection. This would be the “tradition pro” method for a race car.
Almost lost my car to a fire several years ago. Had it parked on paved surface while running at a private test & tune practice, but there was some dead grass growing up through a crack that apparently the exhaust lighted off. I happened to look over and see some smoke and dripping flames coming out in front of the rear tire when suddenly -POOF- a huge gush of flames came out. Grace be to someone that had given me a fire extinguisher a few years earlier; it was right there where I could grab it and was sufficient to kill the fire.
The grass was burning underneath the metal fuel line that goes up to the pump discharge nylon line. There is undercoating on the metal line that caught on fire. It grew large enough that the heat caused the nylon tube on the pump to overheat and burst open, which was still under pressure from when I had turned off the engine. This was the big gush of flames that came out when I happened to look over and see what was happening. Fortunately I was covered and didn’t panick, but the car could have easily gone up in flames and been a total loss.
So maybe getting rid of those nylon lines is something you should consider. That’s the one potential issue I don’t like about them for fuel use; if there is a small fire situation it can become a big fire if the nylon fuel line heats up enough to burst open. Which it doesn’t take much for a nylon line to overheat as you now know.
Is the pump assembly oriented correctly in this pic? That alignment arrow is supposed to point straight to the front of the car, yes? It's hard to tell what the orientation of this picture is but the alignment mark looks a little off...
The S2 pump module doesn’t align properly on the S1. As per the DIY thread, most people rotate the S2 module to where the fitting and barb align to each other, approx. 45 - 60 degrees CW. It doesn’t matter now since the line on his is already cut with a rigged piece of fuel hose and clamps. That will work as a temporary fix (did the same on mine from the fire above) but for a track car those nylon fuel lines are a bit risky per my own fire experience.
now they make push-style unions for nylon tubing that are supposedly suitable for fuel lines; all you do is push the lines into it and they lock in, but I personally like the idea of a threaded fitting because of the potential fire hazard if a tube end ever pulled out came loose.
Which you could go back to where that nylon line attaches to the metal fuel line that runs under the chassis to the engine bay, cut off the barbed attachment end of the nylon line, and attach a compression fitting there, then use adapters to run a 6AN line from the metal line to the pump discharge connection. This would be the “tradition pro” method for a race car.
So maybe getting rid of those nylon lines is something you should consider. That’s the one potential issue I don’t like about them for fuel use; if there is a small fire situation it can become a big fire if the nylon fuel line heats up enough to burst open. Which it doesn’t take much for a nylon line to overheat as you now know.
the issue was trying to shove the 5/16 nylon line over the huge 3/8 quick release fitting. couldn't heat up the nylon line to the correct temp to slide it on fitting that is too large, the line would either kink if its too hot, or not hot enough to push on. unless there's a tool to flare out the inline first to make it big enough for the 3/8 fitting. maybe i'll have to buy another ford fuel line repair kit and use the compression fitting that you posted, as a temp solution until i can drop the fuel tank and see what connection looks like from the nylon line to the hard line under the car. but i agree replacing the entire nylon line is the best. or i could put a heat sleeve over the nylon line.
on track when we have to pull over on the side of the track for any emergency situation or mechanical issues, there's always a concern with grass fire, so when we do pull over, always try to be close to a flag station, since they have fire extinguisher.
Is the pump assembly oriented correctly in this pic? That alignment arrow is supposed to point straight to the front of the car, yes? It's hard to tell what the orientation of this picture is but the alignment mark looks a little off...
in the picture, it was slightly off angle, but the arrow is pointing straight forward now.
Here's a better attempt at fixing the output line. Should be as good as stock for now.
Got another Ford fuel line repair kit. A 90° fitting would have been better but I couldn't find any. Used a heat gun and bent it a little. The like is more flexible than the stock line. Doesn't seem like it would kink. Also got the compression fitting.
Wrapped it some heat sleeve.
The total length of the nylon line isn't very long, less than a foot. It's just on top of the tank, you can feel it with your hand where it's pushed onto the steel line barb end, but will need to drop the tank to work on it.
Last edited by trackjunkie; 07-14-2019 at 07:40 PM.
When I put in my S2 fuel pump I cut the factory siphon line and installed an aftermarket Dorman quick-disconnect fitting, part number 800-085. The stock S1 nylon fuel transfer tube slid over the Dorman barb end perfectly and the QD mated perfectly with the S2 fuel pump housing inlet. That eliminated the need to do any odd splicing on the transfer tube. No issues with kinks or anything either.
When I put in my S2 fuel pump I cut the factory siphon line and installed an aftermarket Dorman quick-disconnect fitting, part number 800-085. The stock S1 nylon fuel transfer tube slid over the Dorman barb end perfectly and the QD mated perfectly with the S2 fuel pump housing inlet. That eliminated the need to do any odd splicing on the transfer tube. No issues with kinks or anything either.
that would have been good info to have before i did the swap lol. the 90* fitting that Mark has in his picture would have been the better option to use than the straight fitting that i used from the FORD repair kit which also use a male/male barb fitting. so that make the fitting sticks out even farther, which means i couldnt clock the basket (like everyone else) so that the top out put line doesnt kink. which is why i had to cut and fix the top line in the first place. but everything is sorted out now and the basket is pointed forward like it should. looking forward to first track event this weekend with the new pump.
Incidentally when I find myself at a pick and pull yard I look around under the hoods of various cars. Lots of Fords, Mazdas etc use those QD fittings for fuel and PCV so I usually just snip them off and take them. I've never had one of those yards charge me for those connectors and they're handy to have around.
Another good thing to look for are flex fuel vehicles. The flex sensors use 3/8" QD connectors and they are very handy for building fuel systems.
is that an oem s2 line? doesnt look like s1 siphon line or a aftermarket fuel line repair kit.
That is the internal S1 siphon hose and it’s also the Dorman fitting John mentioned. Mine didn’t go on so easy though, even though I also have the full Dorman installation tool kit. I was only able to get two of the three barbs in and the third one wasn’t going in no matter what I tried. It’s in tight and solid though.
However, for anyone doing an S2 pump conversion in the future I would now say to skip that because it’s an unnecessary hassle. A piece of submersible fuel hose and clamps are more than sufficient. It’s a suction line only; no pressure. This is exactly what Mazda does on the other end of the internal siphon hose where it attaches to the RH saddle pickup device as you can see below
It needs to be fit tight enough that it doesn’t suck air when the tank is low, that’s all it needs.
The DIY thread shows using the 90. Guess you missed that. However, with submersible hose as I mention above you can just throw on a long piece like 12” and let the excess wrap around inside the tank. I’m ok with QD fittings, but the external Nylon fuel lines are a fire hazard for racing imo.
.
The a 5/16” barb x 3/8” 90* QD fitting inserted in and clamped to a short piece of 5/16” submersible fuel hose and then the hose slipped on and clamped to the the cut nylon siphon hose would be the quick and easy way to handle it.
i'm happy to report that there was no fuel starvation issues over the past weekend where i did three 30 minutes race. and using a detuned map (nasa 195 avg hp), the car used about 7 gallons of fuel per 30 minute race, which leaves about 2 tick above half mark. although PittRace doesn't consume as much gas as some other tracks with more WOT.
Yeah, I don’t think you get the flex line at the pump converted over easily without dropping the tank. In addition to cutting the barb off you also have to cut back the Nylon outer sleeve from the line to have enough bare tube length to install the compression union adapter. I used a dremel cutoff wheel to cut the tube and then a box knife to cut back the Nylon outer sleeve.
It was actually the outer Nylon sleeve on the those lines at the front of the tank that the grass fire lit off on underneath my car, not undercoating. Fortunately aside from the heat bursting the flex Nylon line at the pump it looks like it was mostly emissions stuff that got scorched the worst, and all that was coming out.
Was debating on whether to keep the HVAC unit or not since I wanted to drive the car street legal this year for some test and tune. But the cage builder convinced me to remove it. Also since I wasn't going to keep the radio, I would have to figure out a way to control the HVAC. I'm going to use a small electric ceramic heater for the defroster. Total weight of the HVAC was around 20 lbs.
You already removed your HVAC and Blower units, but for future reference after studying the Mazda service manual it appears that all you need to do to control the HVAC system basics after pulling the radio is install some DPDT switches for the wiring on the control system air intake actuator (Recirc vs Fresh mode), air mix actuator (Hot vs Cold mode), and airflow mode actuator (Defroster vs Vent mode). When the radio is removed the system defaults the two control wires for each one with Battery+ power on one wire and Ground - on the other wire. The DPDT switch on each one of those actuators allows you to reverse the power/ground connections between the two wires, which then reverses the position of the actuator to operate in the other mode.
Alternatively, if you just want it to be in a different mode than the default position and don’t care about controlling it you can either de-pin the connector and reverse the wires or cut and reverse them with butt connectors. I know the air mix actuator defaults to the Hot mode, which will divert air through the heater core continuously like having the heater on full blast, but am not sure about the default position for the other two.
.
03-28-2019, 02:52 PM
