Track Alignment Recommendation
Tried search, but no definite answer. Most results are for autox alignments and/or stock suspension (I have tein flex)
Going to west end tomorrow to do corner balance and alignment. Want a bit more agressive alignment mainly for track days. Current Setup: F: -2.1 R: -2.4 Near 0 Toe FR Forgot caster, but it should be maxed at the front. Thanx! |
What do you mean by "more aggressive"?
What do you want the car to do and what compromises will you make to have it happen? |
Originally Posted by mazdaexe
Tried search, but no definite answer. Most results are for autox alignments and/or stock suspension (I have tein flex)
Going to west end tomorrow to do corner balance and alignment. Want a bit more agressive alignment mainly for track days. Current Setup: F: -2.1 R: -2.4 Near 0 Toe FR Forgot caster, but it should be maxed at the front. Thanx! |
Originally Posted by mazdaexe
Tried search, but no definite answer. Most results are for autox alignments and/or stock suspension (I have tein flex)
Going to west end tomorrow to do corner balance and alignment. Want a bit more agressive alignment mainly for track days. Current Setup: F: -2.1 R: -2.4 Near 0 Toe FR Forgot caster, but it should be maxed at the front. Thanx! |
Back from west end,
After discussion w/ Darrin, heres my new setup: F -2.3 (maxed) 6.3 caster 1/16 total toe out R -2.1 1/16 total toe in corner weighted 865 815 776 725 Not sure exactly what was before, but darrin told me I have about 100lbs too much on the front driver side. :hahano: 3181lbs w/ driver and 3/4 tanks of gas. I weigh 200lbs. Cant really give much feedback yet until I take it to track again. :) |
Originally Posted by mazdaexe
F -2.3 (maxed) 6.3 caster 1/16 total toe out |
Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
Your camber is not maxed.... If you were to take out your caster, minimum is like 4.5, you would have more like -2.5 camber. For about every degree of caster you take out you will gain -.1 camber. There is no reason for that much caster, you will never turn the wheel far enough to have the caster make up for the lack of camber.
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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
What's a good compromise between camber on a stock ride height suspension? I heard with factory adjustments at original ride height you can only get about 1.3 or so camber in the front and about 1.6-1.7 in the rear. I assume at the maximum stock adjustments you should still be able to max out caster to 6+?
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
BS guys are getting -1.3 to -2 front with stock springs IF you take your caster to the minimum. There is no reason to run more than the minimum caster.
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4.5. like he posted. I had never thought about it that way, but you are right, you won't be able to use the caster setting when it is that high. I don't need anymore than the -1.6 in the front, so I am not worried about it, but had not thought of reducing the caster to get more negative camber.
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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
Gotcha so set the camber to max then see what caster you can still get out of it. Is there a caster number that you generally don't want to stray below especially if the car is a daily driver etc. (not sure if that matters)
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words of wisdom ... :p:
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
No set caster to minimum then camber to max. ANY caster you add back will take camber away.
Front: 1. Take out all the caster to 4.5 2. Max out front camber to whatever I can get on stock ride height 3. Set toe to 0 Rear. 1. Add .5 to front camber number both sides 2. Slight toe in (1/16th inch per side, 1/8 total toe in)? I ran with whatever alignment the car was set to when I drove it off the lot for half a season bone stock on the Potenzas and it felt pretty neutral except under trail braking where the tail like to dance a little too much. |
What are you running for tires....If you are on R-comps..you will need that kind of -ve camber. If you are running DOT tires...you won't want that much. Driving on the street with -2ish camber will really eat the tires...esp on the rear.
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Originally Posted by dannobre
What are you running for tires....If you are on R-comps..you will need that kind of -ve camber. If you are running DOT tires...you won't want that much. Driving on the street with -2ish camber will really eat the tires...esp on the rear.
The car is 90% street driven 10% autocrossed on the weekend. Tire wear is a slight issue. Does 1.3 and 1.8 front and rear camber seem more reasonable? |
I'm afraid I'm not qualified to comment on the autocross stuff :) There are many on here much more qualified than me. I ran Azenis the same size at the track last summer....and despite rotating them lots...the insides wore on the rear with -2.0 camber. The alignment was good on the track. When I checked tire temps on a skidpad they were good....but they wear bad on the street.
I guess you have to do what I did....decide what was important ......track performance....or wearing them out on the street a bit earlier. |
I'd personally recommend no less than -2.0 front camber with zero toe and -1.5 rear camber or as close as you can get to it with some minor toe-in
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I'd personally recommend no less than -2.0 front camber with zero toe and -1.5 rear camber or as close as you can get to it with some minor toe-in
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a) not with zero toe
b) a lot of people think so, but I'm not a lot of people c) who says the drive to and from work every day has to be dull and boring? ;) also, you should be having your car aligned twice a year minimum anyways, so run the aggressive alignment in the season and an OE alignment off-season . |
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