ULLLOSE

iTrader: (1)

Not woth the risk of doing anything else. All you need is a PC/AP that reads it the wrong way and you are screwed. Will K had perhaps a less "clear" rule to work with in STS a few years back, and he went from first to last.

Sometimes keeping it simple is the best way.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Thanks! So get a cat-delete pipe with a pre-welded bung for the O2 sensor and have a shop weld that special "rally car" cat in the desired location. Pretty sweet and a 100cpi it should flow extremely well!

Any idea what dyno gains Swoope saw with it?

Mr. Pockets

I emailed the seller a couple weeks ago and he was fresh out of the 100cpi cat. He said he had to order them in large quantities and didn't know when he'd get more. Last I heard form him, he was going to contact his supplier.

I asked Scott if there were any identifying marks on the cat so I could maybe find the supplier, but there weren't any, apparently.

Maybe a few of us should email him so he'll get a bunch in.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

I think he said that he saw nearly 200 Hp, but I don't know what other mods he had.

Another interesting point on this: The rules state the car must pass a "standard" EPA emissions test. I wonder if a 100 cpi cat will pass emissions on an RX-8.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

Interesting data, thanks. I'll contact them tomorrow and see if the situation has changed.

Mr. Pockets

Do the rules define what a 'standard' emissions test is? When I lived in Vermont, they just stuck a rag in the tailpipe and felt along the exhaust pipes for leaks! :D

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

In central VA they do no emissions test. As long as there's no CEL, the car passes.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

I should not have used the word "standard."

Here is what the rule states:
I believe testing requirements vary state to state, and even region to region within a state, which is interesting.

shaunv74

There are two thoughts I had on the cat. position:

1)Longer header tubes to try and gain some power
2)Increase cat. life. for cats. like the RP supercat that tend to fail making it worth buying to someone like me that wants a cat. that will last the life of the exhaust.

Moving it downstream is typically prohibited due to concerns that the exhaust gases will be too cold and not light off the cat. Since we know our exhaust gases are already too hot for our cat (especially with a tuned car) couldn't we measure with an EGT sensor or thermalcouple different points along the midpipe and figure out where the optimal location would be to make sure the cat. is being activated but not cooked?

Yeah it's used to be just a safety inspection. Not much emissions testing.

Where did you live in VT? Just curious as I grew up there. /start thread jack

Mr. Pockets

I emailed Dave again today, and he said he's not planning on getting more. His supplier has a minimum order size that's larger than Dave wants to take on. I'm disappointed, but I don't blame him one bit.

It's a shame - there aren't many inexpensive, durable options out there.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Any idea what that minimum order size might be? This 100cpi metallic cat seems to work well on rotary engines, and I'm sure we could get a group buy going. We might possibly get some rx7club folks in on it as well...

altiain

iTrader: (3)

I would be interested in one.

Mr. Pockets

I'll ask him.

Edit: Okay, Dave says he'd like 'five or six' orders. I don't want to get into the 'group buy' bidness, and I really don't want to muck up this thread any more, so if you're interested just PM me and we can figure out the particulars with Dave.

Another edit: No need to PM me. Dave has placed the order with his supplier. Just go to his site if you want one:

http://www.davesport.com/cgi-bin/davesport/DCAT100.html

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

I'll send you an e-mail Nick. I do feel we could get more 'visibility' if we started a new thread. I could also ask swoope if I could use the photos of the cat he posted in the other thread.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Btw Nick, any idea of a time frame on how long it would take Dave to get a new order in if we can get 5-6 people to sign up?

Once we get some of these details together, I'll start a new thread.

P.S. As most midpipes for the RX-8 are available in a 3" pipe size, perhaps we can specify that exhaust tubing size in this group buy? It could make Dave's job much easier on his end.

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Your "pioneering work" is what's leading us all down the right path. Nothing but love man!

Soloseven

Has anyone tried the Bridgestone RE11s in the rain for STX? A Tire Rack test puts the RE11 as the best Street Touring type tire in the rain (.91g). I think if I go to a 245/40-18 RE11 (on stock wheels) to drive on the street. The overall diameter of the 245/40-18 is 25.7" vs. 25.9" of the stock 225/45-18. That way if I get to a local event (BS class) and its raining (hard) I can keep the RE11s on and race on the RE11s rather than switching to the Hoosiers. This answers the question of how do I get a dry race and rain race set of tires to an event without a trailer. And not get wet changing tires, I hate that. I know the Hoosiers have much better traction when its wet, but they wash out in the puddles (standing water). The RE11s should be able to go through any puddles.

Zoom4Three

I took part in this test and the top 3 tires in the wet posted times that were very, very close. (RE-11, AD08, Dunlop SS Z1) any of the three would be an excellent choice for your intended purpose. The RE-11 is the most civilized of the group for street use.

I did the same thing last year, using the Dunlop Star Spec Z1 as my daily driver/full wet tire. I was able to get approximately 15,000 miles and 50-60 runs (wet & dry) out of the tires before the tread depth became useless in the wet. I would expect similar life from the RE-11.

If ultimate wet performance is the main goal, you may want to wait to see the results of the next couple of test that we recently completed. We have found a couple of surprise performers in the wet that exceed the wet grip of the tires mentioned above.

Extreme Performance Tire Test - http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...irePageLocQty=


Chris H
aka Trent@TireRack.com

06' RX8 Sport- B-stock

Soloseven

Chris;
Thanks for the input, which car did Tire Rack use for these tests?

Zoom4Three

Our normal test platforms - Bone stock - BMW 328i's (E92) 225/45r17 tire size

Chris H

fastmike

Thanks for the info Chris.
I am looking forward to the results of the "new" wet test.
Gotta think of next year and all that.
FM

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

Getting tired of stock class?

fastmike

I'm sick of R tires and changing them at the site.
STR is looking good.
I still think STX in the Slowbalt is a good choice too.
FM

chiketkd

iTrader: (5)

Question for GeorgeH, Broda, Pockets and anyone else with a current STX car...

What light-weight batteries are you guys considering? I think TeamRX8 used the following with success:

However, due to a few wintery nights that can get down to roughly 0F I'm thinking about the following:

And while $179 seems pricey, it's in the same ballpark as some Optima & Odyssey batteries that I was considering.

P.S. Has anyone tried running a factory/replacement miata battery on an RX-8 such as the following:



Voltage 12
Amp Hour 31
CCA* 475
Length 7 1/2"
Width 5"
Height 7"
Weight 25lbs
MSRP $124.95

Link: http://www.westcobattery.com/miata.html

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

I'm considering the Odyssey PC680 as well. Not sure what the strengths & weaknesses of the Optima vs. Odyssey. I recall reading that Mark has used both; perhaps he will comment.

Right now, I'm trying to determine if I can use the factory hold-downs until I find the time to relocate the battery.

I'll also keep the OEM battery around as well. In fact, for the longer road trips to Helena & Lincoln, I might just leave the OEM battery in and swap it out when I get there. I'd certainly use the OEM battery in the winter.