screwed up alignment specs; i need sugestions for auto x
 

screwed up alignment specs i need sugestions for auto x.


Please look at word doc with specs


Guys any help will be great they guy said the best he can do for the rear is -1.9

i have racing beat sways, tein springs, 17 inch rotas rims

what do you mean by "the best he can do"????

the most he can get is -1.9 degrees. i need something that will make it handle like a go cart agian. it now drives like a caddy so dull. before i went to this jack ass it was razor sharp and sweet.

Reset back to factory specs first, then change only one thing at a time and test drive. If I'm not mistaken there's a link on the Nissan SER site with lots of suspension tuning suggestion.

i do not have the money to get an alignment after alighment i want something that i will be happy with that i wont hae to change

Those are similar camber settings to what I got at Roger Krauss Racing here in the Bay Area (very reputable suspension shop)....specifically, 1.1F, 1.6R.

He told me he could get more front camber out of it but at the cost of significant tire wear.
I'm still on stock suspension, btw.

Did you not get my PM?

no i did not get a pm.

I got a confirmation that you read it at 9:34 pm on March 3 :Eyecrazy:

when you say the car handles like a caddy not a go cart, how so? I have very similar alignment settings, and IMO, it feels razor sharp to me. Turn in is crisp, accurate, and the car feels like it is stuck to the ground. What are the handling characteristics that are bothering you, more in detail?

Your doc has the Caster and Camber mixed up...

Better way to "troubleshoot" this will to have the real numbers such as Camber, Caster and Toe for both fornt and rear.

Toe has a significant effect on handling even more that camber and it's easily overlooked...

What are your toe settings F/R ?

Carlos

For convience sake :sigh:

I have no idea what this means really.

Tell us:

Front and rear camber. Front and rear toe. Caster is minor problem IMHO.

Tell you what I have.

Front camber L) -2"08' R) - 1"54' (NOTE: 60' = 1") ;)
Front Toe L) 0.00m R) -0.10m (ie. Zero front toe).

Rear camber L) -1"35' R) -1"36'
Rear Toe L) +2.40m R) +2.30m (ie Rear toe in).

so I tell people as, "2 degree camber front and 1 and a half rear. Zero toe @ the front and toe in @ the rear."

Clear? Hope this helps.

BTW = do not get too much camber at the back - it is pointless, wear out the inside and get understeer. For me (it is personal choice), is to have a slight oversteer when turn in and use my right foot to control (*either brake or accelerator). Zero toe front is good for track with long striaght but twisty track and auto-x (with cones and stuff) better to have the front toe out.

Wow takahashi you're lucky. How the heck did you get -2 up front? The best I can get is about 1.5.

Also, one thing you might consider is less toe and more camber in the rear. You're probably giving up some grip with that much less camber in the back, going to almost zero toe in the rear will keep the car neutral to loose with high camber in the back. With the way the 8 is balanced, it seems that front and rear static camber being near equal is optimal.

Yes I use to be able to get 1.5 camber only and since I have the Tein Flex and lowered it by 20mm I can get a more negative camber at the front. I can get pass 2.5 easy :ylsuper:

I can show you this video . Note the video is in DivX format. (www.divX.com). Adrian in Melbourne, Australia done car from nanny to Porsche Carrera cup racer. :rock:

I turn my DSC off when tracking. I actually try toe zero and toe out (but only on the front). I never thought of trying toe zero at the rear. Judging the tyre wear and photo taken my photographers. I do need more camber than 1.5 at the rear. But perheps just slightly more (say 1"45' and definitely not near 2). I have been loving the toe out since it is so progressive underpower. I am a slow in fast out driver and I power out sometimes before mid corner. I trailed break when I push my car and I fear if I zero the rear toe I would have less directional grip.

But that is something to keep in mind and speak to Adrian about it next time I go. :mdrmed:

I hear the MS Miatas NEVER need an alignment

Awesome 'tar!