gigglehurtz

Would getting rid of the brake booster help with brake modulation?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, but way too much, like in the difference between EPS being on or off. I prefer this route with the weight drop, which plays into my acceleration out of the hole strategy. I believe if I can get the weight low enough and properly execute all the other things that were previously discussed that shifting to 3rd will prove to be beneficial rather a detriment.

The radiation effects are still holding me back, but I’m hopeful that within the next several weeks I’ll be able to get working on the car again and finish it out within the next several months.


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Abendschein

This was shared with me (the bhr thing). It's sort of awesome how much of the theory crafting in this thread is relevant or interesting enough for my STX build.

Also, come to the Finger Lakes event this summer! We want competition, and since we haven't been at this site in many years, it'll be pretty much everyone's first time out.

That and there's a place to camp across the road.

gigglehurtz

Good to hear about recovery. You still seem to have a lot going on despite that (like your 4 port turbo thread). Pretty incredible, if you ask me.


What pads do you run? I'd normally agree that getting rid of the booster would be too much, but I recall on one of my other cars that Hawk pads (particularly the HPS) required some leg pressure to get to lockup. The Carbotech AX6s require almost nothing, in comparison. It's great, since I don't really have to think about not being able to grab the brakes fast enough, but at the same time I would like to have some brake modulation.

Then again, sometimes I feel like I'm braking too much anyway. A friend of mine told me how he drives on Hoosiers, which somewhat negates the need for ultra-precise brake modulation.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I use the Porterfield R4-1 which is the Vintage RR and Autox pad. It does contribute to having too much brake feeling due to the High friction value that kicks in at low temp, which is perfect for autox imo. When you need them they're definitely there to whoa you way down in a hurry. I don't really want to give that up, especially if I can just knock the edge off a bit and add in some modulation. I really feel like the changes I detailed are going to achieve this.





Porterfield will also cut you RX8 pads out of other compounds that may not be offered in the RX8 pad shape if they can find a pad set for another model big enough that allows them to do it. The original guy who started the business was a bit of an SCCA legend. His kids that took over a while back after he passed on are a bit more bottom line oriented though and seem to lack the personal touch they used to have under his management though. I still pretty much buy all my competition pads from here though.

Otherwise I appreciate your kind words , but the street turbo deal is mostly theoretical now and I'm still a ways off from actually building anything, which physical ability is the only real limitation of my current health situation. Well that and a lot of the bills insurance will likely force me to eat haven't come in yet

I also remember what my STX setup was like back when I had the wing and splitter on it. I never felt like I ever got that back when the SEB changed the rules to prevent using those. So if I can achieve some of these other goals for DSP I think the opportunity for success is definitely there despite all the other various philosophies/set-ups.





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Tamra

So I know that Team is working on a pretty impressive build this off season... what is everyone else doing?

Our plans are pretty limited since we are doing so much house work. I would like to make a few reliability mods to the car though.

Last season in Toledo our coolant temps got a little warmer than I would like (hovering 215-220 and dumping some coolant out the overflow) so we are going to upgrade the radiator, and perhaps also do a lower temp thermostat. Our fans are already tuned to turn on early.

I think in SP that it is also legal to do a lower temp opening thermal pellet, right? Also an upgraded oil pressure regulator to run higher pressures? We are running factory of both, so considering upgrading those.

We may also switch to a triple disk clutch for better heat resistance, and do some lighter pulleys (stock currently) to offset the weight pickup. That's TBD though.

Abendschein

I think you're safe to run a different/better fan.

Not sure about regulator or thermostat, but it seems to be common for the thermostat to need replacement.

You could upgrade your oil coolers though.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

It should be allowed. It says any type pump and on many cars the regulator is on the pump and aftermarket pumps come with a higher pressure regulator spring. I don’t think there’s any attempt to not allow higher pressure, but rather oil galley mods, bypass hose mods, etc.

Then you can also claim it as allowed under the drivetrain durability allowance since theres no performance advantage, just durability increase.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I think additional clutch discs for temperature is a mistake. Additional discs are for torque, which a Renesis is hardly a torque monster. You likely need a different disc material or are otherwise misusing the clutch in some way. If I recall you have a twin disc 7.25” clutch? There shouldn’t be any need for a 3rd disc on that clutch behind an NA Renesis.

John V

iTrader: (1)

A lower temp thermostat will do nothing for a car that is running hot. The thermostat is already full open, so what good does opening it earlier do? It's a cooling capacity issue.

Abendschein

The only thing I can think of is that having it open sooner makes it take onger to reach that critical temperature - so it's not as hot for as long before you get back to grid. Good for one, then sit and cool.

On a side note; I have heard a lot of rx8 owners upgrading/replacing their thermostat because it's just not doing its job. Also, generic low quality coolant does not help. FL-22 seems to be the love of the community with a lot of other stuff leaving behind residue and restricting passageways.

Tamra

That was my interpretation as well

8k clutch dumps followed by sitting in grid is about the worst environment possible for a clutch. However, our first 7.25 twin held up great and we used it until basically end of life, triple driving at prosolos. There's a long story I'd rather not go into, but we are switching manufacturers and the new company has recommended a triple for the best heat resistance for our use (although they agree a twin should be sufficient). We want ultimate reliability so decided to go with their recommendation.

I believe the oil cooler thermostat doesn't open until 220*. Having it open at a lower temp would let the entire system run cooler assuming it has the cooling capacity to do so.

We are running Zerex, so not generic stuff. We may also try mixing a higher water ratio for next summer.

Abendschein

I am curious know how that works out. I'll have to wait for your verdict. Mine may be tuned, but I don't have cooling issues yet.

Did going E85 make any noticeable changes to temperatures?

Tamra

We were running ethanol when the temps approached 220 in Toledo. That was literally the only time we had any heat concerns though, so I don't have any true "before and after" comparison since we just flat out never had a problem otherwise. It was very hot and humid that event, lots of cars were having issues. Technically our temps never got TOO hot, but I'd rather they have been lower if that makes sense.

Abendschein

Was that the day when a bunch of us FLR guys came out, or during a tour?

The day we came out was brutal.

Tamra

It was the Pro last year - is that when you guys were there? It was pretty brutally hot. Hottest conditions we raced in all season for sure.

Abendschein

Some did, yes. We also came after Nats. Dan's tires were melting in his CS rx8. My FoST was also sad.

Edit: I am retarded.

We invaded Devon's. 😂

mrazny

iTrader: (1)

I might be only getting the exhaust done, and rear Aero before the summer, then hopefully a few more things before Nats. I have spring change ideas to test out, but i'm not terribly optimistic about having time to put a full effort in this year

John V

iTrader: (1)

8k clutch dumps shouldn't really heat the clutch up appreciably. They are very effective at heating up the tires, though...

But if what you were saying about your current clutch not disengaging completely is true, that could certainly heat it up.

Tamra

I think you misunderstood. Our clutch was fully disengaging, but the floaters were warping and causing it to not want to separate properly until it was forced apart by the synchros, which made it feel like it wasn't fully disengaging as you put it into gear. It was actually fully disengaged, but the plates were sticking.

The first clutch was great but we ran into issues on the replacement pieces for an unknown reason. I'd rather not go into too many details on the forum as the previous manufacturer made good on their part, customer service wise, and we split ways on good terms. I have a good feeling that the new manufacturer we are changing to will resolve the problems due to a design difference in the clutch combined with the triple disk offering better heat tolerance.

gigglehurtz

I've got tons of stuff in the pipe... I'll just spew it on here, because it'll force me to reconcile with my fate

• Rear spoiler - trunk lid and polycarbonate sourced, need to mock up and cut
• Racing Beat Revi intake - need to install
• FD Torsen - installed in RX-8 diff, almost ready to put in
• S2 trans - sourced, detail parts need to be ordered
• Clutch and flywheel - obtained, need to order counterweight
• Alignment bolts in rear to be refreshed with new hardware
• 18" wheels, because take off 17s are impossible to find, and I want to run locals
• Poly motor mounts and diff mounts - pretty sure my diff mounts are getting tired, and I still have the oil filled stock mounts
• Lightweight battery
• Corner balance and alignment
• Lightweight pulleys
• ???
• Profit!

Actually, now that I'm looking at it, it seems like a small list

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Tilton carbon-carbon will solve your clutch problem, you might need to hold off on putting a new roof on your house for a couple of years though

Abendschein

just need to figure out how to get the metal handles off. 52" x 48". Plenty of material if it goes sideways.

John V

iTrader: (1)

Then what you said about the launches heating up the clutch makes no sense.

But it sounds like you have it all figured out, so that's great.

Tamra

Wow, that's pretty thorough. The only (major) things not on there are a tune and exhaust. Our car isn't even corner balanced, and we are running the stock intake and pulleys lol. Which clutch are you going with?

Oh I know... drool. That's not happening though.

I honestly think there was a quality control issue on clutch 2 & 3 but it was "inconclusive" what was causing the warping. Clutch 1 was problem free and did all of the pros other than the finale; we loved it. Either way, hopefully things will be better going forward with the new manufacturer. Fingers crossed.