Low oil light after only 3 runs?
 

Apologys if this has been beat to death but one time search netted no results.

After only 3 - 56 second runs at an autocross the low oil light came on. Using recommended 5w-20 dino oil. I thought I was right on the full mark before starting. Hot engine let sit 5 minutes looked full?

Anyhow added 1/2 quart of oil after the light came on and "stayed on" and problem never recurred!! Appears to be "over full" 1/8" now with the rule of hot engine sitting 5 minutes.

So my question is: "Where is the real full mark on the dip stick?" I really don't need to have issues with the oil light. Or is this a glitch like the coolant light? It comes and goes too under extremes.

If you have a 2004 model, it was recalled for a faulty oil level sensor.

Yours might not have had the modified sensor fitted.

Been there, t-shirt aquired......

Certain 2004 had an issue with the low oil sensor returning a false reading. It was fixed by replacing the original oil pan with a new one. You need to ask a dealer to check if yours was effected and if the work was done. Being out of warranty however will result in the fix costing you.

EDIT: Beaten by StealthTL :(

THIS TSB Will list the VIN range.

Thanks to you both I'll be contacting the dealer then!!

Didn't make alot of sense. Lot to learn on this car but "worth knowing" as I love this thing.

Mine seems to be doing the same thing and I have a late model 05... hmm...

I had the dealer test mine and the sending unit float was bad. Unfortunately my car was built after the design change so no freebie.

Bad news is that the oil pan normally only comes only as a complete unit with the sending unit attached so $450 installed by dealer.

You can get the unit from Metromazda for about $300 delivered but make sure it's the whole assy (by ordering via the telephone) with the float and deflector plate included. It's not a really big deal but some folks like to let the ATV seal bead cure overnite prior to refilling with oil. (If you install it yourself.)

In other words I had enough oil but the float was junk scaring the crap out of me unnecessarily. If you don't want to spend the money right away just pull the plug or ignore it and check oil frequently.

The reason I replaced the whole pan assy. instead of just unplugging it was that I have learned the oil pressure gage is a total joke and doesn't even have a sending unit so you cannot rely on it at all. This actually makes the oil level idiot light very important as your ONLY warning.

Racing Beat says: http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Oil-System/11803.html


'RX-8 owners, are you aware that the "gauge" that appears on the dash of your RX-8 is not actually a functional gauge? Have you ever seen it move? Not only have we discovered that this is a non-operational gauge, but there isn't even an oil pressure sensor on the engine! Nope, the gauge will never move from the position that you see. (There is a functioning oil level sensor and dash light.) Remedy this with the installation of your own gauge(s) in your RX-8. To monitor water temperature in your RX-8, also see our Water Temperature Sensor Adapter unit.'

http://www.mazdatrix.com/8interior2.htm

Mazdatrix has the whole gage set that fits into the ashtray but it will cost you $450 which is the same price as a replacement oil pan installed. I opted for the new oil pan assy. as the old one lasted 7 years. It's purdy.

(BTW my old 99 miata also had the useless on/off oil pressure switch but it was a nightmare to install a sending unit so never did.)

my cost for the sensor is $55, the complete oil pan assembly is $115. you are mainly paying for labor.

since the oil pan has to come off regardless there is more labor involved to replace the sensor than just the pan. So it is cheaper for the dealer to replace the whole thing, plus there is less chance for it to leak since the pan rail usually gets a bit bent and/or twisted during removal. It only makes sense to replace the sensor if you are doing it yourself and even then you could make a good argument to replacing the whole thing because cleaning and straightening the used pan is a total pita

I pulled the pan and reused it once. If I ever had to do it again I'd buy a new pan assembly and just tear the old one off without caring about it.

I got a new engine less than 2 months ago, it has less than 3K miles on it. This will be covered under warranty

i'm not having any oil sender issues but plan on installing this gauge set sometime next year.

Hmmm. My car got a "new" dealer installed factory engine @ 55k but they reused the oil pan and EVERYTHING else that was bolted to the core. Even the used spark plugs.

The pan isn't covered under warrantee unless you have an early 2004 covered under the VIN number cutoff. Believe me I asked when I had them replace the defective original pan with sender recently.

That's because in that situation Mazda only pays for the replacement engine and labor to swap everything over. If they had known you were willing to oay for a new pan assembly they would be happy to sell you one and install it during the swapover, but obviously neither of you knew the sensor would go bad sometime thereafter. Poopy happens.