Looking for cheap Brake Rotors recomendations
 

Times to replace my rotors. Do not have extra cash for anything really good. Car is used on the street and track (about 15-20 days a year on Mosport, Mid Ohio, small local stuff and hopefully Calabogie next season).

Here is a list I came up with:

1) Stock (I did manage to warp the fronts once on the track but that was my fault)

2) PowerSlot Slotted Rotors (http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Brake-...nts/14580.html)

3) Racing Brake (http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Brake-Componen/14492.html)

4) Centric (http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...ml?id=rhImgUjm)

Any feedback is welcome (quality of the materials, rust, etc)
I know there are better options that may be better in the long term, etc, etc but as of now I don't want to spend more than 300$ on the pair.

I ran carbotech xp10 & xp8 on the track. Like the pads allot and don't really want to switch, any incompatibility issues?

Your best bang for the buck is Rotorpros. Just did a canyon run this past weekend on mine that are well over a year old and the still stop like new and no fade :)

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ght=rotor+pros

or search for thread title rotorpros or rotor pros

I have an almost new F&R set of racing brake 1 piece slotted rotors. The were never tracked and only used for maybe 3 months 1K miles.

I also have a F&R set of 2 piece open slotted rotors.

I've always stayed with the factory brake discs (or at least rotors made by the same factory as OEM) and had good results. I've been about as abusive as possible and had no problems. You can get them pretty cheap if you buy them aftermarket.

He just said he tracks at Mosport...One of the fastest tracks around...

And you recommended him Rotor Pro's...

:banghead:

The search button is free, topic has been beaten to death if you bother to look

Ps: that canyon run BS talk don't mean diddly compared to running at a track

See above. Chances are you are using the brakes too much. Using the brakes too much is often a signal of a new driver ready to make the leap to a novice driver. The RX-8 has great balance and by design uses the rear brakes more than a front weight bias car. Because of this the burden solely on the front brakes is less than other cars.

We have run stock brake rotors FOR YEARS without issue. Cracks (which are normal) are the result of frequent heat and then cooling or heat cycles. On a longer track (live Mosport--a favorite) if you overbrake and then let the longer straights overcool your rotors you enter the next braking zone with cool brakes and the heat cycle issue comes into play (which grows cracks quicker).

Now this next comment is probably going to go over most peoples heads: Fast professional drivers (guys faster than I and I've got a few track records in WC and some fast laps up front) brake LESS than I do. The guys up front know how to go faster and one way they do this is by braking less----this is how they are going 1 mph faster through the corners than I (or 10 mph faster than a novice driver).

Brake less and brake softer = faster lap times. Think about that. You're also easier on the brakes too.

Cheerio and once again, I echo Team's sage obi-wan wisdom.

Mosport is indeed a fast track but you don't really need brakes there as there is just one hard braking point - before 2a. Having said that I am not sure I want to think about going my brakes going in so I will probably pass on the Rotor Pros.

Team - I have searched and could not find anything specific. It is easier to assume the person searched and enlighten them your opinion. I did come across a tread regarding Carbotech and Racing Brake but could not conclude if olddragger's experience is avoidable or if the pads and rotors are best kept apat.

Eric - thank you for your input, always willing to learn and listen. I try not to over use the brakes and at Mosport that is pretty easy (I try to think about brakes as tool to in setting up the car).

I have had no issues with the stock rotors. I managed to mess up one set of front stock rotors but that was due to a mistake of not cooling them and not getting of the pedal while chatting in pit row (that was a while ago and a basic mistake on my part).

Any thoughts on the specific rotors I listed. Are the Powerslot and Racing Brake compatible in terms of quality?

Any issues with getting slightly used rotors - 5k or less (uneven wear?)

Should I stay away from Centric?

Try www.racepages.com. Several price ranges to choose from.

I've been using the Centric stock cheapies, but the last two sets did warp after about 5-6 days on the track.

Somewhat disappointing, but not that disappointing for under $60 each. I've got a couple more sets in the stockpile I'll use up next Summer and then I'll try something else. I've got some direct cooling duct work to put in too, I'll see if that makes any difference in warping.

I run HP+ pads all the time on the track, aftermarket ceramic on the street. I've never had any cracking on any RX-8 rotors. (Now, on my FB Spec RX-7 race car, the rotors crack in one hot session!)

Centric OE rotors from rockauto.com ..... /thread

and the sage advise is Erics, I now brake sooner, easier, and less overall thanks to his reminders here


I do love my RacingBrake full 2-pc setup though if only for the weight loss

warped rotors are often not the rotors fault ...


.

OP requested pics of my used 1-piece rotors via PM so here are the fronts.

And the rears.

I never said rotorpros were the best but he said:

"Times to replace my rotors. Do not have extra cash for anything really good"

Thread title is: Looking for cheap brake rotors recomendations

You guy are bashing rotorpros rotors when you have probably not ever seen them or run them. It's the typical cheaper equals crap attitude :rolleyes:. As far as I can tell my dimpled rotorpros are just dimpled stock rotors. But either way, I have done a ton of 100F, 300+ mile hard canyon runs on them and they are wearing fine and holding up well.

My opinion.

I too like carbo tech pads. used them for years.
BUT DO NOT USE THEM WITH RACING BRAKE ROTORS. 1 piece or 2 piece it does not matter.
Racing Brake makes a dang good rotor it is just that their material is incompatable with carbotech pads. The two together on a high speed circuit will form deposits that you cannot remove by regular means.
Racing Brake rotors +hawk or cobalt pads are great.
I use the oem rotor--lasts a long time with my xp's and they stop you very well. I also have a dedicated set for the track so I dont have to clean them all the dang time. never overheated/fade or developed critical cracks.

Eric and others are right on. overbraking both in intensity and duration is very easy to do.
This has only come to my attention this year. Now some turns you have to brake hard and fast like 10A at Road Atlanta. But a lot of them like Turn 1 at Rd Atlanta --most people do overSLOW.
My last event there i worked on turn one, my straight speeds there are about 125-130 and i was dropping to about 90 for the turn. By the time i was off the brake at 98 or so mph and back onto the throttle and had the car pointed i was down to about 90 just by turning the wheel, downshifting and coasting AFTER the braking. I can enter that turn at about 100mph if i do it right. So I have to work on how my car slows off the brake.
Smooth is fast---right?
OD

This is the competition area, can we please can the canyon run wannabe racer BS

Yes i've seen them. Before and after the rotor was destoryed at the track...Causing the car to hit the tire wall...

Where would you suggest is the best place to get "same factory as oem" or oem rotors?

I do like carbotech pads and have a few of them left (at least of the rears) so I may pass on the racing brake rotors.

centric, about as cheap as you can get and pretty similar to OEM

Centric makes a good OEM equivalent blank which is what I recommend. Available at a number of places suggested above and at http://zeckhausenracing.com/ $83F, $58R. I have many track days on three different cars with them.

By the way you didn't warp your rotors at the track, you merely exceeded the thermal range of your pads, not your rotors, and put uneven pad deposits on the rotor face. Rebedding with a better (higher temp range) pad or having them machined will remove the uneven pad deposits and restore your rotors. The only reason to get rid of rotors in my opinion is when they wear below the minimum thickness or you crack them at the track (discussed above). Otherwise spend your money on a better set of pads. I haven't cut or replaced a rotor except for cracks in the last 3 heavily tracked cars I've had. Even scoring doesn't really mean much as the pads will wear to match the scoring.

For a deeper discussion read the eloquently written Brake FAQ Sticky https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/brake-faq-167264/ . If you want further discussion read the article by the renowed Caroll Smith at http://stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml .

^ I did warp my rotors, I know the difference between uneven pad deposits and warped rotors. This was a while ago when I still had my Series I, was my fault and is not really at issue. Don't know why we keep coming back to this, I guess I should have omitted this piece of info to begin with.

Thank you for the prices on Centric that is cheaper than other place I have seen.

$70 front sport pair and $52 rear pair from Rock Auto

Why do I waste my time replying to people who won't listen/read?

Perhaps if you removed the bag?

My bad, missed your post on rockauto.

Imagine how much time would have been saved if we didn't go through the "you idiot you haven't searched", "now I am gonna lay some sarcasm on you" and then maybe "put my suggestion somewhere in there".

Ex:

Centric are OEM quality and cheaper, best place to get them is rockauto.com: $70 front sport pair and $52. Good luck.



Much Obliged...

R1 Concepts is very good. I just made another post about them, and they are a vendor on here.