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I did just end up making a 3D table of a pulse width multiplier
Works great, though needs some fine tuning at different temps/ethanol levels but not really a huge deal.
I definitely need to do some "post start" fueling additon to keep the flame front propagated once the engine is deemed running, but I am still trying to find a good angle to add a table into the open loop fueling. Low priority, but is fun work in the winter months.
Because my splitter took a massive beating at Grattan, I decided to add some front rub pucks, and get new rods as the old rods were really stretched out too far for their length. I had more rub pucks to add, but I am happy with this.
We will see how long the carbon rods last.. I am a bit worried about them taking a beating.
Last edited by equinox92; Jan 4, 2026 at 10:38 AM.
Because my splitter took a massive beating at Grattan, I decided to add some front rub pucks, and get new rods as the old rods were really stretched out too far for their length. I had more rub pucks to add, but I am happy with this.
We will see how long the carbon rods last.. I am a bit worried about them taking a beating.
Splitters are unfortunately there for sacrifice.... nothing you do will save them other than not running one.
I have a 4x8 sheet of Birch that I use and can make 2 from one sheet. Surprisingly after 14hrs and several times running out of talent it's still in good shape. Is it car show worth heck no, but I don't have a show car. It's a racecar and they get beat up. Not saying it shouldn't represent you, but expect it to take lumps along the way. That's just racing.
Oh, I sprayed the birch with bed liner paint and good lord that stuff is amazing! Dries hard as nails and takes quite a bit of abuse and still looks great.
with them attached to solid structure, some small diameter chromoly tubing likely makes more sense for the splitter struts. It would just take some basic fab skills to adapt them, and the weight difference is fairly minimal compared to longevity.
Tossing into the maintenance log. The dust boost were a little worse for wear and I wanted to understand the rebuild process of the caliper. So I got myself a rebuild kit from Demon Tweeks for the AP caliper, $50 per side, and off we go.
Piston seals were totally fine, but replaced them anyways and noted down the part numbers for the dust boots as I can just buy those in the future. Saved the old piston seals as spares just in case I find myself in a bit of a pinch, or is the UK decides to not ship stuff to the US anymore
Putting this information down here in an attempt to solve a problem that I can't quite wrap my head around: ECU Resetting at 10k RPM at the rev limiter.
At first I thought that it had something to do with my FlexFuel patch, which I suppose is still possible, but after some testing I did this afternoon I am left with a few more questions.
For those that aren't familiar with this issue, which is probably everyone, it's basically exactly what I said above. If you hit the rev limiter (Mine is set to 10k RPM, though it still seems to happen at lower limit settings), the ECU will reset, the cluster will drop down and back up, and then the ECU will continue as normal.
Trace of this happening:
You can also see it happen at the end of this video (1:44):
This is what obviously led my down the rabbit hole of where in software I went wrong. I cannot find anything in my software that would cause this to happen.. though additional engine control calculations could be creating a situation where the ECU is unable to perform all of the calculations it needs to do in a given engine cycle.
This afternoon I tested a new software with a few fixes on my end (G-ROM FlexFuel v1.5.1), as well as a slightly modified stock ROM. Modifications were to delete the immobilizer as I do not have an immo unit in my car, fueling base set to what it needs to be for my current ethanol content (65%), and the rev limit set to 10k RPM.
In my testing I tried these 2 softwares, 2 different ESS sensors (both cleaned, though not a single one is KNOWN to be good), and 2 ECUs.
The ECU reset at the rev limit at 10k RPM with every combination of those 3 variables.
The test was conducted with the car on my lift in the air, in 2nd gear simulating in gear driving at the resets seem to happen MUCH more frequency while in gear with vehicle speed.
Other things I tested were:
ECU Overvoltage, alternator controller kept the voltage at 14.3-14.4V through redline, ECU still reset. ECU Still reset when removing the alternator from the circuit entirely running at 12.8V on a battery charge
Unplugging my CAN sensors so the ECU would not need to parse extra CAN messages (OEM and G-ROM FlexFuel v1.5.1), ECU reset in both condition
My next steps are:
Put the car back on to pump gas and test a MORE stock ECU to see if some fueling situation is getting me into trouble with an overflow or >100% DC requested. The software at the injector driver level is very hard to understand through reverse engineering, so I don't have 100% confidence nothing is being weird there
Investigate immobilizer delete software and see if that could be causing something weird to happen. Low confidence this is the issue as the immobilizer patch literally just satisfies the condional of "is the immo data we got good? If it's good, it's good... if it's bad, IT'S GOOD!" so the software should still run through the proper immo procedure.
Get a new OEM ESS to confirm that sensor is good. I did get a P0336 code during my testing, though I am not sure if this was set because I swapped sensors with the key on. I didn't look at freeze frame data (doh), and could not recreate the issue with more testing, so this seems like a low probability issue.
Anyone ever deal with this on a STOCK car or know of this issue happening with stock hardware? I know the Versatuner stuff had this issue, but this seems to transcend software, so I am super lost. I may make a thread dedicated to this issue, though because I am in deep with my own engine control software I figured I'd keep it in this thread for now.
Last edited by equinox92; Mar 21, 2026 at 03:28 PM.