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Brake Fluid
After 3 lapping days, I need to replace my brake fluid. How much brake fluid do I need? Also, I was thinking of getting redline but any other brands you guys recommend?
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Are you using DOT 3 or 4?
I put in ATE Blue DOT 4 in the spring and do about 10 track days till I swap it out for regular DOT 3 for the fall / winter. As for the amount that is what the Max line on the reservoir is for. |
haha, I know but just don't know how many bottles I should buy...is 2 bottles enough?
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Originally Posted by 92tsiawd
haha, I know but just don't know how many bottles I should buy...is 2 bottles enough?
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I'll second expo's recommendation for ATE super blue.
It comes in 1L containers, and you'll only need one of these. I did the clutch and the braking system (including bleeding the master twice, as specified in the shop manual and recommended by people on this forum), and the container was still about half full. |
Another reason I like the ATE blue is that when I go back to DOT 3 in the fall I can easily tell when I got all of the Blue out and visa versa when I put it back in the spring.
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Nice, thanks guys, I'll try that brand out
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Uh we did 4 cars over the weekend with two cans of ATE super blue. That's complete fluid swaps.. 1 can will be enough.
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Originally Posted by expo1
Are you using DOT 3 or 4?
I put in ATE Blue DOT 4 in the spring and do about 10 track days till I swap it out for regular DOT 3 for the fall / winter. As for the amount that is what the Max line on the reservoir is for. |
good question
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the ATE Super Blue, need to change it every two to three years. It is printed on the can.
ATE, Motul & AP, they are all the same, the brake fluide will trap moisture, and when it trap the moisture their boiling point will go down. so most racer will change brake fluide every race. |
It's so easy to do, change it after every track day.
You can see the difference in color after 1 track day. |
Originally Posted by yiksing
Why did you switch out the DOT4 during winter?
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Huh? You mean your brakes don't get as hot on "off season" track days? How'd you do that:scratchhe? I don't like the idea of mixing different temp fluids repeatedly, even w/a complete changeover. Here's my switch between solution that solves that... "ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively)".
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By off season I mean driving around NJ in the fall & winter no track days. I shouldn't post till after my second morning coffee. After October I drive like a granny till next April.
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The benefit to the Typ 200 is that it doesn't stain the reservoir blue... :ack:
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Do most DOT4 last as long as DOT3?
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Originally Posted by yiksing
Do most DOT4 last as long as DOT3?
If you have any DOT3 laying around, it should be thrown out. All brake fluid is hygroscopic, the difference between brake fluids are the dry and wet boiling points. A good fluid for the street will have high dry AND wet boiling poitns, since the fluid is not changed as often. A track fluid that is changed frequently can get by with a high dry / low wet boiling point. JV |
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Pity it's four times the cost... :banghead: |
you only have to flush 1/4 as many times too thanks to the 518 degF wet boiling point, I use 1 Liter a year so price-wise it's no big deal plus I don't have to mess with it :dunno: I hate messing with brake fluid :icon_tdow
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Originally Posted by John V
That beats the pants off the Ford HD fluid I've been using for years.
Pity it's four times the cost... :banghead: Warning--> Ford PM1 brake fluid has changed Since I have been a rather vocal advocate of "The Ford brake fluid formerly known as -- >C6AZ-19542-A"... (else where on the net) REPLACED BY PM-1(When switched to Motorcraft sourcing) I feel obligated to warn of a recent change in the part number... and more importantly... It's dry boiling point reduction!!!(I'm a Ford/Linc/Merc parts guy) PM-1 is now PM-1C PM-1 had a D.B.P. of 550F PM-1C has a D.B.P. of 500F PM1C is the new number. BEWARE, the old stuff and new stuff are in the same plastic bottles. Both have the same wording on the front of the bottle. The dry boiling point is in the first line of wording on the back of the bottle. They look indentical. Look 1/2 way down on the right column is the part number, PM-1 FIR No.002092 the good stuff PM-1-C FIR No 174922 the fair stuff They even have the same bar code number 3150826582 It is a running change and there is still lots of PM1 in the system. |
And for any of you in the DC area, I've already called Darcars Ford in Lanham, MD, and they claim to have 22 cases of the old stuff. I'll be picking up a couple cases this week.
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