Fuel Pump Retaining Ring Removal Tool
 

I am looking for a good quality tool that I can buy or borrow to remove and reinstall the threaded ring holding the fuel pump in the tank. I believe mine is leaking since I tightened it by hand and I am now getting the P0442 Evap leak trouble code. I'm not interested in using a poor quality tool from NAPA for this but I'd be happy to see what you have that might be usable.

try Atkins Rotary, Racing Beat or Mazdatrix

Sure it is not your gas cap....if the pump seal leaks it will leak gas with a full tank quite badly :)

i believe bhr has one you put a deposit down and they return once you return the tool. contact charles

Thanks guys. I retightened the gas cap and the CEL still hasn't gone away so I have to assume it's still the ring. The tank may still be leaking when full, I'm going to double check that.

I saw a thread last week on another tool, I think it was something common available, that has been used to tighten it. Look in troubleshooting series 1 forum.

What year is your car? It still may be your gas cap. You may want to clear the code and/or replace the cap. My code would not go off after I replaced my cap. I had to delete the code a week after I replaced the cap. Has not given me that code since. If the seal is leaking, you would have an overwhelming gas smell in your car.

Those were reserved for people who purchased the entire assembly modified by us but I no longer loan the tools out in ANY case because the vast majority of people who borrowed them, even when placing a deposit, were slow to return them. Thus, other customers were left waiting.

I've been through this twice. You need to replace the union nut (plastic ring) and/or either of the two gaskets (one between the ring and the pump and the one under the pump). Every time you remove/install of of these may get fucked so instead of doing them one by one, do them all at once then don't touch 'em again.

You should sell them, they look cheap enough to make and I'm sure there's a market for it.

As it turns out, I misremembered the code I had and it was actually P2402 EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit high. The ring may or may not be the problem still, but I need to do some more research. Anybody familiar with that code and common causes?

1) Or, use BHR's new Doo-Doo Butter lubricant which loosens any tight object. :lol2:

2) Working on that, right now.

Yes. There is a pump motor in the evap system which activates from time to time. It is checking the integrity of the fuel vapor recovery system seals and fuel tank seals. When it detects a vapor recovery system leak, it trips a CEL. This could be your fuel tank o-ring, gas cap o-ring, improperly connected vapor recovery hoses (the blue Quick-Connectors), or an improperly functioning purge solenoid.

There's a pudding stain on the back. And what the **** is that! It might be doo doo!
:mdrmed:

Check for peanuts or corn. That is what we call a "value add-on" with BHR products.

I never cease to be amazed by the constant innovations there at BHR.

Thanks for the tips. Having read the description of the error in the manual, it sounds to me like this is more likely a problem associated with the electrical control of that pump rather than a detection of a physical leak. I cleared the code a couple days ago and I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if it comes back. It might (I hope) be just an artifact of the reflash I had done a week before it showed up.

CEL is back on. I'll go through the diagnosis steps in the manual but I'm guessing this really means I didn't get that ring tight enough. I have a new ring but I need to replace the seals. It's very strange though - I think they're listed at $40-$50 apiece, which doesn't make much sense given what they are.

I don't know what all this replacing the seal crap is..I've had mine out 6-7 times...no problems at all with it leaking...just lube it up with some silicone grease and re-install it

Did you actually check your gas cap ? It is the most common reason to get an evap code..

I did clean, lube, and reinstall the gas cap plenty tight (~7 clicks). I suspect the ring because I tightened it by hand without the proper tools. Although I'm not seeing any fluid leakage I suspect I'm getting some vapor leakage.

If so you will smell it.

If you are getting vapor leakage...it will leak liquid fuel above 3/4 of a tank....and like Team said...you will smell it in the car

I would look for the purge line in the engine compartment...and a new gas cap...they fail quite often and are the most likely failure point.

After that the evap pump or solenoid may have failed...

If you have a buddy with an 8..try his gas cap before you get too carried away thinking it is something complicated

I appreciate the input.

I have kept the pump access panel open for the past few days and I definitely smell vapor at times but I haven't seen any liquid leaking. Granted, since it's open I'm likely to smell leakage anywhere.

I have a hard time believing the gas cap is shot since the rubber seal on it is very pliable and looks to be in good shape. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to get a new one though. I'll check into your other suggestions as well.

Vented Gas Cap Function
The vented gas cap is designed to vent small amounts of air into the car gas tank line. The vented gas cap has a one-way release valve that is pressure-activated. When the pressure reaches a certain point (defined by so many pounds per square inch) the valve opens by a very small amount, relieving some of the pressure. In this case, the pressure is formed on the outside of the tank, due to the vacuum formed from the displacement of fuel on the inside. After the pressure inside the line equalizes, the pressure valve closes. The valve is set to balance the pressure with the surrounding atmosphere. Air is allowed in, but no fumes are allowed out of the gas cap, because of environmental concerns.
Inner Parts
The vented gas cap has a chamber under the plastic cap handle that inserts into the fuel fill line. The cap screws shut, and this chamber fits relatively close inside the intake tube of the fuel line running to the tank. On each side of the chamber are small openings where air is able to enter. These chambers lead to the pressure valve, which, as the level in the tank decreases, allows air inside to remove any possibility of a vacuum forming.