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Originally Posted by adamci24
(Post 3624956)
Update: had the car for a few days since they fixed the VDI harness. No real difference except there are no more CELs...the car still hovers around 750, sometimes fluctuating and vibrating the car. Hasn't stalled yet. They replaced my defective Mazda battery for free...I'm not sure if the ECU was reset when they replaced it, which could cause the weird idling since it is learning the fuel trims. It Did this before when I replaced the battery.
This morning I was driving it in the 90 degree heat, and I had my AC blasting and music cranked. The car kept hiccuping out of 1st..I'd not want to move for a second or 2...seemed to go away when I turned the AC off. Lastly, before the repair on Thursday, I was driving it for awhile in the heat and at one point the car just seemed to crap out. I would push the pedal all the way down and they car wouldn't go faster than 40 mph in 3rd gear...the engine had a slight humming, helicopter sound to it. Never stalled though. I don't know if that had to do with the VDI, but it hasn't happened yet since the fix, but I really haven't driven it for a long period of time yet.....
Originally Posted by TQCuong3th
(Post 3625020)
mine the same way it shut down my engine when i turn on the ac lol in the very hot weather but now i know waat to do just turn off the acc when u at a stop sign or red light , turn it back on when u driving that all
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I'm not going to read 7 pages.
What you described above is a bad Cat. You have to manually take it off and look inside. |
man is u find a solution let me know please lol
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AHHHH! I am so gad damn frustrated! My car just lost power again, rpms dropped and stalled. Would not start for 15 minutes.
I called my original dealer I bought the car from and talked to the owner. He said I need a new engine, but he can't do it because he is 1200 miles away lol. After I had explained to him my problems. he said He would help me out any way possible. I called Mazda North America and all they told me was to take it back to my local dealer for them to do more test...My local dealer is calling me back so i can explain what is going on. EVERYTHING has been tested on this car...the only thing left is a new engine in my mind. I am so sick and tired of taking this car into the dealer, and having the problems return. This car won't drive properly in the heat. I don't know how to get this dealer to finally swallow the new engine pill. All they want to do is small tests to suck more money out of me. I'm getting sick and tired of it. I feel If I take it to a new dealer, they will not do anything because they haven't done any service on this car. Wtf should I do? I have 300 miles until the limited powertain warranty ends even though i still have the core 100k. -Cat check ok -New plugs -new coils -new wires -new VDI harness -barely passed compression test last month -stock intake -stock exhaust -new battery Sorry but i needed to vent. I just want this car to work for more than 20 min in the heat. |
Towed it to the dealer...had a technician drive the car while I was the passenger. The car hardly started and he was like, "wow, that didn't want to start"...we drove for 10 min and the car started vibrating, bad idle, and almost stalled but the guy popped it in neutral to save it. They now have my car and will be looking at it again.
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Originally Posted by adamci24
(Post 3624956)
....I would push the pedal all the way down and they car wouldn't go faster than 40 mph in 3rd gear...the engine had a slight humming, helicopter sound to it. .....
Dealer replaced the cat. Solved. |
hope a new engine is in works for you adam but the other guy still seems to have the same problem even after a new engine so idk if it will do the trick.
(everyone stating it's the cat) i've checked my cat and it looks fine, i ran a straight thru pipe with no cats and my car acted this way also. |
im not gonna re-read all 7 pages again so
either bad CAT or u need a new engine. mind u, even the CAT checks out ok "SOMETIMES" it might still clogged up somewhere inside. Lemme give u a little hint : you can "manually" destroy a cat with a screw driver ... *cough* |
Would the cat affect the hot starting issue though? The main issue is that after it stalls, it will not start again until it is cool...so there is obviously something that is causing the hot start problem, and that something is getting too hot to work...what it is exactly nobody knows including the dealer.
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Originally Posted by adamci24
(Post 3628181)
Would the cat affect the hot starting issue though? The main issue is that after it stalls, it will not start again until it is cool...so there is obviously something that is causing the hot start problem, and that something is getting too hot to work...what it is exactly nobody knows including the dealer.
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No the car will not turn over after stalling. It cranks as if it about to start but never starts no matter how long you crank it.
My dealer called me after having the car all day and all he said was they found rotor 1 misfire codes and that they will have to continue to look at it. If the car is misfiring while it is about to stall and experiencing these hot problems, I there anything out there that could cause that except the engine failing? I don't understand what this dealer is looking for. They never seem to blame the engine for the problems. |
Dealer called me back. said they need to replace the Cat. Also said I have a small coolant leak out of the top of the radiator...They are checking monday to see if my warranty will cover the radiator. I hope the new cat will resolve all these problems. If not, then there is nothing left but the engine to be the problem.
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Wonder if a cat could cause all that? I had straight pipe with no cats and I can see right thru it with no build up. My car started to have this problem with Tue straight pipe. I checked the stock cat and looks fine so Idk
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Yea, that was my concern...I wasn't sure if the cat could cause the whole hot starting issue after it stalls. I called the dealer who I bought the car from, and he said for sure all my symptoms could be caused by the cat. But if they starting happening again with the new cat, then he said without a doubt my engine is toast. I'm wondering if I should have them do another compression test while they have my car in the shop. Considering it passed by one point before. I think the one rotors reading was like 640 and the minimum was 630. Those numbers may not be exact but it was that close.
My dealer said they have an rx8 there that also needs a new cat, and we are both waiting for them to come in stock. I kinda want to get a hold of this guy to ask him if he was having any other problems like mine. |
wow...........just wow... So i didn't know, but my RX8 has an aftermarket exhaust manifold. My dealer said they can't give me a cat now because the higher up's said that an after market exhaust manifold could lead to bad o2 sensors, which can throw off Cat tests. The dealer said my cat passed twice and failed once. It failed the time after I had the tech drive the car and it almost stalled.
its complete bullshit. If my cat wasn't bad I wouldn't be having all these problems. And i am not getting anymore o2 codes at all. Idk wtf I should do with this car. I guess ill look for a stock manifold. wonderful. |
Originally Posted by adamci24
(Post 3632252)
wow...........just wow... So i didn't know, but my RX8 has an aftermarket exhaust manifold. My dealer said they can't give me a cat now because the higher up's said that an after market exhaust manifold could lead to bad o2 sensors, which can throw off Cat tests. The dealer said my cat passed twice and failed once. It failed the time after I had the tech drive the car and it almost stalled.
its complete bullshit. If my cat wasn't bad I wouldn't be having all these problems. And i am not getting anymore o2 codes at all. Idk wtf I should do with this car. I guess ill look for a stock manifold. wonderful. Have you had a chance to contact a local 8? Maybe you can swap cats and try there on and see if anything changes. Is there anyway you can go to a different dealer? Did you see for yourself that you do have an after market header? |
you should stop trying to fix a lemon, get a lawyer and tell all dealer to contact him, and find yourself another car. I don't care if it's a Ferrari, if a car give you that much trouble you should quite and get another one.
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I was having the exact same problems as u guys, the I scanned it on the obII meter and it came with "large evap leak" p0422 I think if I remeber correctly. anyways I took the car to weber Mazda and they said I need a new throttle body actuator the service would have cost me 1660$ bucks I said fuck that! Lol so I took apart the whole evap system cleaned it and put it back together then seafoamed the car- and bam I haven't had a problem for about month now. I'm crossing my fingers- but eventually I'll be buying the actuator and charcoal canister- anywho goodluck hunting guys I hope my story helps u out maybe a lil.
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Well I got a stock manifold coming for $75 from the for sale section of this site...so I will put that in or have the dealer put it in to make the car completely stock. Then, i'll leave the dealer,drive the car for 20 min, make it stall again, and then pull right back in and tell them my car is still doing it and the cat must be bad. I mean, the dealer already told me the Cat failed and his bad and I need a new one. Yet now they want to give me my car back with the bad cat because of the aftermarket header.
They are also blaming my misfire codes on my coolant being low. lol. Considering my plugs, wires, and coils are a month old, I doubt they are the problem. I guess my steps right now are: Get stock header installed>prove cat is still bad after new header>get new cat>if that doesn't fix things then the engine |
Originally Posted by Winning 8
(Post 3633476)
you should stop trying to fix a lemon, get a lawyer and tell all dealer to contact him, and find yourself another car. I don't care if it's a Ferrari, if a car give you that much trouble you should quite and get another one.
Originally Posted by Mattiji
(Post 3633525)
I was having the exact same problems as u guys, the I scanned it on the obII meter and it came with "large evap leak" p0422 I think if I remeber correctly. anyways I took the car to weber Mazda and they said I need a new throttle body actuator the service would have cost me 1660$ bucks I said fuck that! Lol so I took apart the whole evap system cleaned it and put it back together then seafoamed the car- and bam I haven't had a problem for about month now. I'm crossing my fingers- but eventually I'll be buying the actuator and charcoal canister- anywho goodluck hunting guys I hope my story helps u out maybe a lil.
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UPDATE: OK! got some answers finally. The dealer installed the stock header today. Said they noticed a very small hairline fracture in the cat. They took it for a test drive and immediately got a CEL for bad cat. They did their own test to confirm, and said it failed miserably. For some reason the aftermarket header was masking the cat tests so they would only fail periodically. Now with the stock header in the car, it immediately failed. The dealer is ordering me a new cat. Should be a few days before I get my car back, but I'm happy something was finally done.
So the dealer replaced radiator with a brand new one, installed the stock header and will install a brand new cat for a total costing me about $300. I'm ok with that, considering that money is mostly coming from the header install. I think after I get my car back, I will install new spark plugs even though they were changed recently. The dealer said they were pretty fouled and I would assume that is because of my massive seafoam of the engine. I would like to seafoam the engine once more, but i'm scared to with that new cat being on the car. The seafoam shouldn't do anything harmful to a new cat right? Just would rather do a seafoam with the old plugs in before I put the new ones in. Thanks for all your help so far guys. Seems like most people that said cat were right. Just took awhile for the dealer to prove that with all the aftermarket parts. |
UPDATE: Well. New cat did nothing. Dealer test drove it, and the engine is toast. Mazda is replacing it for free.
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It sucks that it took you that long and all that trouble, but glad you are getting a new engine. Keep us posted on the outcome.
Congrats! |
Originally Posted by kalne
(Post 3651389)
It sucks that it took you that long and all that trouble, but glad you are getting a new engine. Keep us posted on the outcome.
Congrats! Thanks man...The trouble will hopefully be worth it in the long run...How is your new engine holding up? Running good? |
Originally Posted by adamci24
(Post 3649080)
UPDATE: Well. New cat did nothing. Dealer test drove it, and the engine is toast. Mazda is replacing it for free.
hope this solves your problem. got my ignition kit in, this weekend i'm going to install it, hope this fixes my problem. |
lol at the story but.. Welcome to the new engine club. :)
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well guys i'm here to update my car and hopefully the last time with this issue.
i installed the bhr ignition kit. for anyone installing this kit in the future, have your girl help with the install because i couldnt get my hands in to tigthen bolts or take them off. the car runs amazing, starts right up, no hesitation in low rpm and doesnt bog down when in wot. the reaction is very quick and much better then factory and i couldnt be any happier even if it was almost 500 bucks spent. i have so much relief of my chest and thank god for keeping me sane. |
Response to "adamci24" on page 1 --- I had this EXACT same problem yesterday, but it took me 12 mintues to get the car to start and I was in a left turn lane at 5 pm in a busy intersection. I am at the dealership today and I brought my extended engine warranty paperwork with me, if they fight me I will use your article to prove it is a common problem.
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Well after reading all 8 pages I have some things to add: I am the original owner. It is a 6-speed Sport-AT. I custom ordered the car while in Iraq and picked it up at a dealership in the states. It had 7 miles on it.This was November of 2007. I Always use 90 or 91 octance gas and had the same dealership do every oil change on schedule. I Always drive in Manual Never had a single issue through 99,971 miles until yesterday. The dealership is replacing the engine on my first visit in but they say the CAT is damaged and will cost $2162, I told the service manager that " I don't have that just laying around". And now they won't replace the engine without replacing the CAT ;(
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Just buy an aftermarket cat for around 400 bux
.Or get a used stock cat for 200 And i want them explain why cant they replace the engine without buying a cat? |
Originally Posted by adamci24
(Post 3571407)
UPDATE: So I replaced the coils a few weeks ago...It fixed my acceleration problems and the car ran great for a while...Then, again the car stalled at an intersection, total loss of engine power. I also noticed that the car had trouble starting when the engine was hot, especially on hot days outside. The check engine light came on again and it was read as a ""secondary air intake sensor malfunction" which again is probably the MAF sensor. I still have the AEM CAI in the car and cleaned the MAF with the official MAF cleaner.
This morning I took the car to my local Mazda dealer. Explained the issues I've been having, and they are going to look at the car today and let me know tonight what they find. The CEL was on when I took it in...The service rep had quoted me $125 for the initial fee to look at the car. I didn't say anything about it, but shouldn't they at least do a compression test and see if it passes or fails before they start charging me money on something that the warranty might cover? I have a feeling they will blame this all on the AEM CAI, which I could understand for some of the rough idle, RPM, maybe stalling problems, but the AEM shouldn't affect the cars hot starting problem, correct? I plan on putting the stock intake in the car after I receive the parts that connect to the main air box, which I don't have right now (just have the airbox). I will update agin when I see what they say tonight...I just want a compression test done to see what is up with the engine, and if that is one of the problems alongside the AEM. I have a 2005 with 58k BTW. Thanks guys.... I'm having the exact same issue! Could you please let me know of you were able to fix it? I don't know what to do anymore. I would greatly appreciate! |
2004 RX8 stalling
When im at a stop in gear with the clutch in and it should be doing 900 rpms its showing 750 rpms and if i take it out of gear and take out the clutch it drops to 500 rpms and then it stalls, or when im slowing down to a stop i go slow enough with the clutch in the car shuts off. then after doing it for about 25 mins it completely stop it wouldnt start back up. i let it rest for about 15 mins annd it started back up and i drove it just fine but i kep it above 4 rpms untill i stop in my drive way. i cant think what it might be the o2 sensor or the apex seals. but right before i started to drive i did do some work to the car by taking the air in take out to check some wiring for the eps. p
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What is the fix
I have replace my cool and spark plugs. Car is still stalling. I have 155k miles 2004
Originally Posted by Amyamy
(Post 4582411)
I'm having the exact same issue! Could you please let me know of you were able to fix it? I don't know what to do anymore. I would greatly appreciate!
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